New Lifeline or ?

[daveb]

With a single 4-D I really didn't have a problem running the refrigerator, heater or fan, and lights all night while staying above 50%. Even if I did some computer work or watched a movie with the inverter on I rarely dropped below 12v. If I were to replace all the lighting with LED, I think it would help as well. What the second 4-D has done is being able to run the microwave for longer periods without having to run the engine. Two batteries also help when the solar panels are not in full sun and I'm not driving for the day.

Dave

[mtrecon]

I really didn't feel I was short on power with the 1-4D, but we did have to pick and choose when to run the microwave.
Just got back from Moab (awesome 3 days) and guess this coming week I'll have to put some time and effort into to the possibility of an 8D.

[Roonie]

Originally Posted by daveb

With a single 4-D I really didn't have a problem running the refrigerator, heater or fan, and lights all night while staying above 50%. Even if I did some computer work or watched a movie with the inverter on I rarely dropped below 12v. If I were to replace all the lighting with LED, I think it would help as well. What the second 4-D has done is being able to run the microwave for longer periods without having to run the engine. Two batteries also help when the solar panels are not in full sun and I'm not driving for the day.

Dave

Isn't that the truth. Decided to test battery power of my single 4D. I ran microwave with engine off for 2 minutes. It cut the battery power from full down to almost 60% or less.

[daveb]

Well I got a little more than that with a single 4-D. The battery must be left W/O load to reach its state of charge (depth of discharge) voltage for several minutes before checking the voltage, so you might want to test it again, then let it sit and see where the creeps up to. Also depends on the batteries condition, the size of the load (some MW are larger and pull more), plus the temp of the battery. Real cold weather hits batteries hard. Most people should be able to use the microwave for a short period and still have enough to get through the night depending on your other loads, but with twin 4-D's I've been able to run the MW several times during the night and still be fine by morning. Even with 2 batteries, I can use the microwave fairly heavy during the night and see the voltage drop below 12v and an hour later it usually is back up in the 12.4-12.6 range even if the heater is running pulling about 2A. Last year I saw a member here pop a bag of popcorn and run a outside light for several hours before calling it a night and he still had good voltage in the morning but he didn't run anything all night. Anyway, I was surprised because all he had was a single 4-D.

[Greggd]

I have to replace four AGM Batteries on the boat and was doing some research on Mil Spec Batteries thinking that they might provide a little more quality and found the following site .
It has the kind of information that may help with Battery purchase for replacement or new builds . http://www.lifelinebatteries.com They also have a state directory for distributors . I was only allowed 1 AGM for our build (DEKA) and it has been a trouble free with the aid of the Solar Panel and keeping it plugged in between trips .
Greggd

[Steve_382]

Ok, one of my house batteries was disconnected for about a year and I was running on only one of the Group 27 AGM 8A27M batteries. It's a long story, and wasn't my fault, but that's how it was. The one that was disconnected doesn't hold a charge very well and pulls the other one down also after a while.

A couple questions. I am thinking about replacing both of them even though they are only about 3 years old. I priced some at West Marine at $240 each, Remy Battery online at $210 including shipping, and then called Batteries Plus. They said their Group 27 batteries were $85.99 each. Said the had the same CCA at 580 and 90 AH instead of my current 92 AH. Is it possible that these are decent batteries at less than 1/2 price of the others? I would certainly replace both at that price.

Thanks for any comments.

Steve

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by Steve_382

Ok, one of my house batteries was disconnected for about a year and I was running on only one of the Group 27 AGM 8A27M batteries. It's a long story, and wasn't my fault, but that's how it was. The one that was disconnected doesn't hold a charge very well and pulls the other one down also after a while.

A couple questions. I am thinking about replacing both of them even though they are only about 3 years old. I priced some at West Marine at $240 each, Remy Battery online at $210 including shipping, and then called Batteries Plus. They said their Group 27 batteries were $85.99 each. Said the had the same CCA at 580 and 90 AH instead of my current 92 AH. Is it possible that these are decent batteries at less than 1/2 price of the others? I would certainly replace both at that price.

Thanks for any comments.

Steve

Remember, the purchase price also pays for the warranty. How do the warranties compare?


Herb

[Ford_6L_E350]

One good thing about Batteries Plus is they are nationwide, you can get warranty replacements nearly everywhere.

As long as they are both AGMs, I'd go for it.

Mike

[Steve_382]

Ok, thought the $90 was a little too cheap. Those are not sealed batteries. The sealed ones are $200 or more. So far, the prices I have found are:

Cabela's Group 27, MCA 1200, CCA 950, Reserve Capacity 180 for $195.00
Interstate Batteries 100AH AGM Group 27 for $249.00
Lifeline GPL-27T online at Wholesale Batteries for $282.00
Deka MI 8A27 92AH online for $208.00
Batteries Plus Worker Group 27 for $279.00 or Optima 27 for $249.00

Several reviews of the Optima were negative with shorted cells after a year or two.

Steve

[Steve_382]

Well, I removed the cabinet for the batteries, disconnected the cables and charged each battery a couple of times using an automotive charger that has a setting for AGM batteries. I am now holding 12.7 volts on both batteries with an open circuit. That may not be too bad for batteries that are a little over two years old. I am thinking about doing an equalize charge to see if that gives any improvement. Have any of you tried this little trick?


Excerpt from Tripplite manual
Select Equalize Battery Charge—OPTIONAL
This DIP Switch is momentarily engaged to begin the process of equalizing the charge state of your battery’s cells by timelimited overcharge of all cells. This can extend the useful life of certain types of batteries; consult with your battery’s manufacturer to determine if your batteries could benefit from this process. The charge equalization process is automatic; once started, it can only be stopped by removing the input power.

Setting Procedure
• Move to “Equalize” (DOWN) position for three seconds.
• Move to “Reset” (UP) position and leave it there. This is the factory default setting.
CAUTION: Do not leave DIP switch #B3 in the down position after beginning process. Battery
charge equalization should only be performed in strict accordance with the battery manufacturer’s
instructions and specifications.
Battery Charge Switch Position
Reset Up (factory setting)
Equalize Down—momentarily


Excerpt from Lifeline battery manual>>>>>
Conditioning should only be done when the battery is showing symptoms of capacity loss due to
extended time in a partial or low state of charge condition. This could be caused, for example,
by low charging voltage for an extended number of charge cycles, or by repeatedly charging to
only 90% state of charge.
NOTE: Some chargers use the term Equalizing Charge instead of Conditioning Charge. An
Equalizing Charge is generally applied to flooded lead acid batteries that are susceptible to acid
stratification. However, an Equalizing Charge may be used to provide a Conditioning Charge for
Lifeline® batteries as described below.
To apply a conditioning charge, first go through the normal charge cycle to bring the battery to
full charge. The conditioning charge should then be applied by charging for 8 hours. At 77°F
(25°C), the conditioning voltage should be set at 2.58 VPC (15.5 volts for a 12 volt battery). The
conditioning voltage at other temperatures is shown in Table 5-2. By using the temperaturecompensated
conditioning voltage, batteries that are not in controlled temperature environments
may be conditioned without bringing them to room temperature. If temperature compensation is
not available, it is best to bring the battery as close to room temperature as possible before
applying the conditioning charge.