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Old 05-12-2019, 03:34 PM   #21
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I have the same sticker under my hood.

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Old 05-12-2019, 05:16 PM   #22
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R134 amount must depend on the model. The link I posted above has the charging detail steps and that model 60-2040, is 2.25# max depending on the hose run......
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Old 05-12-2019, 05:28 PM   #23
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R134 amount must depend on the model. The link I posted above has the charging detail steps and that model 60-2040, is 2.25# max depending on the hose run......
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Yes, the Starcool III is not independent of the factory system, so you are filling both the factory Ac and Starcool. Everytime I have had it worked on I needed to point out the fill requirements, otherwise they would put in the factory amount only.

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Old 05-18-2019, 12:00 PM   #24
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Did you replace the compressor or Condensor that is in the rear under the van? I have been trying to figure out where to get parts for my Starcool III and made a post but haven't had any luck. Might have to go aftermarket which is fine but im not sure what will work or fit. Danhard doesn't make anything anymore and Sportsmobile wasn't any help.....
If anyone knows part #’s for the compressor or Condensor please post them.
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Old 05-18-2019, 12:27 PM   #25
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I found the compressor, it's actually rated as a R12 compressor, also found a R134a one by the same company that is a little cheaper that I put links to both recently in this thread:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ice-23976.html

They don't make the condenser anymore but I found what I think is a better option with an aluminum housing and bigger fan that can be underbody mounted. I will have to move the location of the condenser but it was in a horrible location anyway and mine constantly was caked with mud. Also links for that in my thread as I am rebuilding my system at the moment.
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Old 05-22-2019, 02:10 PM   #26
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I fixed my starcool! I kept popping a fuse. The fan condenser fan spun freely but I clipped the wires to the fan and no more blowing fuses. I just got a mr. gasket replacement fan.
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Old 05-22-2019, 04:05 PM   #27
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I fixed my starcool! I kept popping a fuse. The fan condenser fan spun freely but I clipped the wires to the fan and no more blowing fuses. I just got a mr. gasket replacement fan.

Yup, that’s the problem I had, too. I suggest doing both at the same time. Chances are the other one isn’t far behind.
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:43 PM   #28
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Yup, that’s the problem I had, too. I suggest doing both at the same time. Chances are the other one isn’t far behind.
I think I just confused myself with saying fan a few to many times. What do you mean replace them both?
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Old 05-23-2019, 03:24 AM   #29
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I think I just confused myself with saying fan a few to many times. What do you mean replace them both?
There's the one under the van, usually driver's side behind the door, and another mounted to the front of the radiator behind the grill.
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Old 05-25-2019, 12:23 PM   #30
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My Starcool III has been the single most irritant in my build. I firmly believe SMB west installed it on Beer-thirty on a Friday, and came back in on Monday and were not sure where they left off. Between loose wires, loose fittings it has caused a lot of issues over the years. Most shops just don't want to look at it, I've have had numerous leaks over the years, The last one Ford couldn't find and always said it pressure tested. I actually pointed out the fitting that was leaking and they said they couldn't find the part. I sent pictures to Danhard and they said there were two fittings they used in the design, neither of which they stocked anymore. The last thing they told me is they were asking engineers.

So I guess if someone has one a now working one, and needs to part it out I would be interested. I agree that from the schematics and diagrams it does not look that complicated.

-greg

I was able to source the part on Ebay York/ Tecumseh 5/8" Rotolock Back Seat Flare Valve 451-268, I expect it was a bad gasket, but since it is a pain to get off, I thought I might as we replace it. It does not come with the new Teflon gasket needed when installing. This unit has a flare connector, as did the original. There is a flare to O-ring adapter installed on that. I did find a part that would let me eliminate the adapter, unfortunately that made the existing hose connection to short, so I had to find the real part. Of course you need a new O ring and a bottle of Nylog. There is not a lot of wrenching room when the compressor is installed, I found that my porter cable router collet wrench 1-1/8 " worked as a good stubby wrench substitute.

After hunting this down, I will have to give my Automotive AC guy a break, this part is only used on the 110 Compressor. Marco at Danhard helped although they did not have any, but he gave me the correct name " Rotolock" fitting.




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