Nuther battery box - Page 2

rob_gendreau · 04-04-2014, 07:17 PM

As I said, I'd use 2AWG. Probably have some laying around. Under the van I doubt the copper thieves would notice it.

For terminal protection, check here: https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/te ... lators.php

They've got a kind for just about anything. Work well.

These guys also sell nice bus bars and other stuff for electrical at prices MUCH better than BlueSea and those marine supply places.

I'd tie those down with much more than zip ties. Hinged and metal plate hold downs of all sorts are around. If you have ANY play the zips will fail. I had to use them to secure an engine battery in a more tight fitting space than your setup, and we had to replace them before we got back to the highway. Even a pair of hose clamps would be better, but since a battery hold down is less than $15 why not use one? Or just long bolts on either side with a steel plate across the top.

Scalf77 · 04-04-2014, 09:11 PM

Yes, I would try to come up with something good to hold down the batteries, and protecting your terminals is fixes only one possible issue. When I had my original problem with the broken zip tie, it caused my battery cable to rub on the frame.

The battery bouncing up and down caused the cable to ware thru and short to the frame.

If I was going with a inverter I would go with 1/0 cable, how long is your run, if the inverter is right above the batteries you may get buy with 2.
Cold temperature reduces the performance of your battery. At Freezing the capacity is reduced by 20%, (note: Flooded batteries can freeze at a discharge state)

And while you can see a higher capacity at high temperature it comes at a expense of life of the battery. I am not saying you can't put them outside the van, but we should understand the pluses and minuses of doing so.

It also makes even more reason to make sure you use temperature compensation for all your charging methods if possible.

-greg

rob_gendreau · 04-05-2014, 09:11 AM

I had to run some cable for my winch and was concerned about chafing. I hit on the idea of using some heater hose; since it's automotive it's relatively more resistant to oil, heat, etc. So far it's worked great. My auto parts store also had a bunch of small chunks of it they gave to me free.

Re the outside thing, I've often wondered about the perils of water. In creek crossings I've got water as high as the axles, and probably splashing as high as those frame rails. I wouldn't think that would cause much of a problem, but I'd still want any positive terminals or wire as far from the frame or body as I could, and/or insulated. Be more of an issue if you were driving in the surf or Mono Lake I guess cuz of the salt. I've seen folks use marine battery cases underneath, but they add bulk and hence the batteries are lower, and I'd think something like that would trap water and goo and be even more of a problem.

Also, since you'd be running some cable underneath, prudent to put a big ole fuse right near the terminals of the battery? I don't use a big inverter off the house batteries (maybe 100W max) and I probably never draw more than 20 amps on the house system, unless I'm not thinking of something. I'd think the charge coming from the alternator is the most powerful, but I'm not sure what that amounts to. Anyone know?

**BroncoHauler** · 04-05-2014, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rob_gendreau

I had to run some cable for my winch and was concerned about chafing. I hit on the idea of using some heater hose; since it's automotive it's relatively more resistant to oil, heat, etc. So far it's worked great...

Agree, that's what I use, even using cut up old heater hose to protect new heater hose.

2horsegarage · 04-08-2014, 08:20 AM

Has anyone rigged up a battery box like this to raise and lower where the spare tire is mounted? Seems like that would provide easy maintenance access, as long as it could be secured.

rob_gendreau · 04-08-2014, 09:01 AM

I considered it, but rejected it.

First, there's the weight. My tire weighs about 60lbs; the batteries 150lb. Not sure it could handle that much weight.

Second, you only have a single pull to lift it. The battery would have to fit really tight against something, perhaps under tension, since all that weigh in motion could do really bad things. And yet the cables have to clear without chafing. Thought maybe it would raise into sort of an upside down box, but then to secure it I'd have to get under the van.

It just wasn't worth the extra hassle. If you use AGMs the only time you have to maintain them is every few years when you replace them. And a floor jack would probably be faster.

86Scotty · 04-08-2014, 09:37 AM

I agree with Rob.

dhally · 04-08-2014, 03:19 PM

Nice setup, very similar to ours. Since we used AGM's we were able to mount them on their side and increase ground clearance. The builder, Van Specialties, didn't think they needed to be tied down but the batteries would hit the floor on rough roads and it sounded terrible. Here was my solution to the tie downs. And they're short enough to use a floor jack!

We also have a circuit breaker right next to the batteries, just in case.

Before

After

rob_gendreau · 04-08-2014, 03:26 PM

Just so you know, I just found a three year old 1" webbing I used underneath my van had rotted through. No UV exposure, but the usual offroad abuse. EDIT: forgot to mention that the different kinds of webbing have different resistance to acid: I think it's nylon that doesn't play well with acid, while relatively speaking polyester does better. Now if I could remember which was stretchier....

I'll have to keep this in mind when I replace my batteries. The ones I have now have a sort of flange that means that don't lay on their side very well. I also like that it's easy to visually inspect the cables.

86Scotty · 04-08-2014, 03:37 PM

I remember seeing this pic when you posted it somewhere before. I wish I had AGMs! If I ever upgrade to them I will probably rebuild this style box. I have also thought about cutting the side out of my 60/40 door step and making it an access plate to get to the terminals. I would leave the plastic step intact so you could just remove the trim plugs, pull the plastic step cover out, remove the plate and get to the batteries, but that's a lot of work for as little maintenance as they need. On my last van I dropped the battery box one time after I built it.