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08-18-2019, 10:53 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77
You should run a ground from start bat to frame the same size as start positive to fuse bar. And of course from frame to ground bus bar. If you don't go wire from Start ground to ground bus bar.
-greg
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I should also mention I plan on doing the "Big 3" upgrade (battery to frame, engine block to frame and alternator to battery) while I'm in there.
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08-19-2019, 07:48 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibike
Thanks for the clarification. Any thoughts on one of these multi cable glands? I'm planning on building a box around the rear passenger wheel well to house all the electrical components, so I thought I might mount one of these on the frame side of the body and bring all my cabling up through the rocker panel cavity and out through one of the holes from the factory stamping inside the van.
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I have not used that gland but it should work, you can also find multi hole plugs for the PG glands, just harder to find, you could try www.Mencom.com.
I take it that you also got a larger alternator, sounds good.
-greg
__________________
-greg
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"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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08-19-2019, 09:31 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: East Bay CA
Posts: 1,078
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You could put that gland somewhere where it's a bit more protected and that would help.
But just as important is that you anchor the wiring and conduit to prevent vibration. A few hours on washboard, as we all know, can shake a lot of stuff loose, and heavy gauge wire has some decent leverage potential if not secured. I like the idea floated earlier of just using one big ol' cable since it's easier to secure, to a terminal. Makes it a bit easier to make changes later as well. But it can also depend on whether it's easier to drill say three holes than use a saw to cut a shape like that, what's on each side so it's easy to attach heavier cable without big bends, and so on.
__________________
2001 Ford E250 Sportsmobile with Salem-Kroger 4x4 conversion
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08-19-2019, 09:46 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77
I take it that you also got a larger alternator, sounds good.
-greg
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I hadn’t planned on one, is it necessary? Any recommendations?
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08-20-2019, 08:47 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 225
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Planning power system: input needed.
FYI, here’s what I’m looking at for a gland to get cabling in and out of the van. Should support all the cables I’m using with a single opening. Scanstrut deck seal.
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08-20-2019, 10:02 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibike
I hadn’t planned on one, is it necessary? Any recommendations?
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You have 60 amp subwoofer, and up to a 50 amp DC to DC charger. 110 amps. What size is your Alt, and remember at idle it will put out half of that.
greg
__________________
-greg
__________________________________________________ ______________
"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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08-20-2019, 11:11 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 225
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Planning power system: input needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by unreng
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Found these guys local in here in Phoenix. 350A max, 220A hot idle. Should cover me sufficiently. $450.
https://phoenix-alternator.com/MPart...x?IDNum=113750
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08-20-2019, 08:18 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77
I made a couple of changes with multiple options. I prefer the terminal fuse instead of the circuit breaker, but it is a personal choice. The Terminal Bus Bar is a good way to distribute power, and would take place of bus bar and individual fusing.
I added a cut-off relay for the start battery input of the KISAE DMT12x0, you do not need the ignition option on the KISAE.
You should fuse the house battery, and you can't do any better than a Class T fuse. You did not mention what size house battery you are going for , or what the actual distances were from components. So don't read much into the weight of my wire sizes, but those would need to be calculated and fused properly.
If you are using the battery shown in your diagram you could probably use a terminal fuse here also. Also with the smaller battery shown, I would limit the charge output of the KISAE for the battery size.
Oh, and I added a Balmar SG200 Battery Monitor.
Feel free to ask more questions here or in a PM.
-greg
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Ok, so I took your notes and made a few changes to my original design. Went with terminal fuses at both batteries and the terminal fuse block for distribution inside the van. I do have one question on the connection from the Kisae/battery/fuse panel. Can I go directly off the Kisae output midi fuse to the distribution block instead of feed from the battery fuse as drawn? I made a crude note on your drawing to show what I’m referring to. My reasoning for this is that it’ll reduce the penetrations into the van by one 4awg cable.
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08-21-2019, 11:42 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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Sure that is acceptable. Just remember that the fuse protection for the fuse panel wire is coming from the class T or terminal fuse that you are using on the house battery. The fuse block itself is rated for 100 amps (max fuse 125)
-greg
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-greg
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"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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