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Old 08-21-2019, 11:50 AM   #21
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Sure that is acceptable. Just remember that the fuse protection for the fuse panel wire is coming from the class T or terminal fuse that you are using on the house battery. The fuse block itself is rated for 100 amps (max fuse 125)





-greg


Copy that. Planning on a 100a terminal fuse for the fuse block feed and a 60a midi fuse coming off the output of the Kisae (per the manual).

I truly appreciate all the help. Thanks for preventing a potential vehicle fire!

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Old 08-22-2019, 02:15 PM   #22
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Wow, thanks for all this info. Would you mind posting a parts list when you make your decisions?
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Old 08-23-2019, 06:30 PM   #23
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Wow, thanks for all this info. Would you mind posting a parts list when you make your decisions?


For sure. I’ll do a detailed write up with pics. Here’s a teaser pic, it’s all coming together!

(The cardboard cutout represents a DSP I’m picking up from a friend next week)
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:26 AM   #24
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Not sure about the orientation of your panel, but it looks like your mounting the KISEA DMT-1250 in a horizontal position. It should be mounted in the vertical position with the terminals downward for the best thermal performance.

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Old 08-24-2019, 11:20 AM   #25
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Planning power system: input needed.

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Not sure about the orientation of your panel, but it looks like your mounting the KISEA DMT-1250 in a horizontal position. It should be mounted in the vertical position with the terminals downward for the best thermal performance.



-greg


Hmmm, I was planning on mounting it horizontally. Imagine the bottom of the board goes over passenger side wheel well with the sub enclosure sitting directly in front of the distribution board.

My plan is to build a three sided box with a removable lid to enclose the sub enclosure and distribution board. I had planned on putting an air intake grill down low on the cover/box with a small, thermostatically controlled exhaust fan mounted on the opposite side of the box up high to get some convection cooling. Even with proper ventilation, do you still think it’s unadvisable to mount the Kisae sideways? I know there’s a note in the manual about this, specifically mentioning protecting the terminals in a marine application.
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Old 08-24-2019, 01:25 PM   #26
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The unit does have fans in it, they do come on unless you are in silent mode (reduces current). The natural airflow would be to come in the bottom and exit at the top. I would suspect that all heat-sinks also go in the direction, but I have not opened one up. I use to do a lot of environmental (temperature) testing, this could make a large difference. I would not mount horizontally. The other reason for marine was for moisture dripping'

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Old 08-25-2019, 11:16 PM   #27
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I’m getting close but still accumulating parts (battery cables, lugs, loom etc) and I was mulling over a few items and wanted to get some more opinions.

Battery monitor: This seems like a good idea, I’m thinking I’ll add one but not till a little ways down the road strictly for budget reasons. I assume it’s ok to run without one in the interim?

Battery disconnects: This van almost exclusively gets driven on the weekends. I have another vehicle I drive M-F. I’m wondering if it’s wise to add a disconnect for both the starting and house batteries. The van sits in my driveway in Phoenix, even when it’s 115 degrees out. Operating threshold for the Kisae is 130 degrees. I bet it gets hotter than that in the van in the peak of summer. The Kisae will be tucked away where the power switch isn’t very accessible. I was thinking it’d make more sense to just cut its power feed remotely instead.
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Old 08-26-2019, 07:54 AM   #28
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So it is always best to add a battery monitor when changing to a new battery. But, it won't be the end of the world if you don't . You will need to assess your battery health and adjust the capacity down the road, when you do the install. Dollars spent on the monitor are well spent.

Disconnects for batteries are always a good idea, Generally, you want to makes sure you bring it to full charge and then disconnect for storage. You can add a relay to the solar input if you want to disconnect that power source. The relay that I have shown in the drawing is only active when the van is running, so it is disconnect. In general, if you disconnected the house battery, the KISAE wouldn't be active.

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Old 09-01-2019, 04:36 PM   #29
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Started planning overhead lighting, looking at installing 8 12v 3w recessed LED pucks in the headliner. I'd really like to break them up into two "zones", passenger area and cargo area with the ability to switch the groups of lights independently or all together. I put together a little diagram of what I think will work. (Not sure if I need the diode at each switch or not, just put them in there to be safe and prevent back feeding current)

Also, for the stereo wiring. I plan on installing a relay in the dash behind the radio and bringing in a secondary power source from the house battery fuse panel. This way I can flip a switch and have the radio on without taxing the starting battery. (Rear speakers are powered directly off radio, front speakers and sub will be run off the external amplifier that will have its remote turn on lead wired to the van ignition)
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Old 09-01-2019, 07:36 PM   #30
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I updated the lighting drawing after looking at specs on the dimmers I want to get Looks like they are low side dimmers, so I updated to match their recommended wiring.
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