please help me choose new house batteries

[wl1193]

Hi. I would like some inputs ince I. not too tach savvy.

I need to replace two aging house batteries. I've had them since 2012 ish and they are in the 11.5 voltage range today Hre is my current setup. A hundred watt solar panel on the roof, a go power 30 amp solar controller, a Xantrex, Freedom HF 1800 inverter, a blue seas fuse panel, and two old Interstate AGM deep cycle 90AH batteries. The batteries are mounted in a box under the van. The batteries are accessed via a cabinet inside the van. I can hook up to shore power.

The house batteries power a Norcold Nr 751 bb fridge continuously, a microwave rarely, extra power outlets for cigarette outlets, some 110 outlets if I turn on the inverter, and a roof fan and a water pump for my sink. I do charge phones, tablets etc.

I use the van a few times per year for camping trips and that's usually spring to fall.

Ist worth trying to upgrade to a battery such as battle born? Would that be a direct battery swap or would I need to buy more equipment to run lithium. Or should I stick with AGM?

I like simplicity and since Im not to tech savvy I like something I don't need to mess around with alot.

Thanks in advance.

Will

[shenrie]

I can’t really answer the tech questions but interstate is great with their pro rated batterie warranties. They won’t care who the original purchaser was either. Whenever I replace our van batteries, I basically only have to buy one of the two I usually end up needing. In short, interstate is a good company to deal with for batteries if you decide to just replace them and not do any upgrades.

[wl1193]

Thankyou Shenrie.

[marret]

The simplist thing to do is replace the batteries with AGM. Changing to Lithium will be more complicated and will likely require more than just new batteries, especially if your alternator charges your house batteries and you use your Xantrex to charge the house and starter batteries.

[boywonder]

What do you have for a battery separator?

If your solar controller has an AGM setting that is usually fine for Lithium. Absorb around 14.2V and float around 13.6V works.

There are lots of LiFePo4 batteries that are cheaper than a battleborn these days with good reputations; SOK, etc.

As mentioned above, the other thing usually needed for LiFeP04 batteries is a DC-DC converter. They are much happier with being smart charged with a DC-DC converter compared to a simple battery separator. Victron Orion, Kisae and Sterling make them, among others that I can't think of right now.

[wl1193]

Thanks Marrett and Boywonder.

I'm clueless. Not tech savvy at all. That's all the equipment that I know of.

If I recall correctly, the alternator charges house batteries when I drive. I think the Xantrax is only used when I turn it on via the wall mounted controller. I only turn that on when I want to use the 110 outlets or turn on microwave. Beyond the on off button im not sure what the controller does.

Battery separator.... hmmm. scratching my head. I see a clear "blue seas" branded plastic box next to my xantrex with 2 cables running to it and out of it. the other side of the xantrax has the fuse box. Not sure if that is my seperator?

[marret]

Welcome.

Right, your Xantrex should charge while plugged in and invert 12v to AC when not plugged in and turned on. I only turn my Xantrex on when I want to invert. It automatically charges when plugged in.

Sounds like you might have a Blue Sea automatic control relay (ACR) or separator. Can you see a model number?

You can check your Blue Sea device on the Blue Sea website to figure out what you have:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...harging_Relays

DC to DC charging via the alternator is what boywonder mentioned and what I was referring to. Your Xantrex and solar should have Lithium options or your solar AGM setting may work on the lithium.

I hope Greg will come along, but I am not sure of the impact to your start battery if you use an ACR and a single charger for lithium house batteries and a lead acid starter battery.

I thought one didn’t want to leave lithium on a float charge.

As I mentioned, it gets much more complicated when you add lithium. Much simpler to stay with AGM, possibly even more so with your use.

[Twoxentrix]

It's not Lithium, but there are benefits over AGM & your current system wouldn't need any modification: Firefly Oasis 12V 116A-Hr Battery
https://www.emarineinc.com/Firefly-O...m_medium=email

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by wl1193

Battery separator.... hmmm. scratching my head. I see a clear "blue seas" branded plastic box next to my xantrex with 2 cables running to it and out of it. the other side of the xantrax has the fuse box. Not sure if that is my seperator?

Clear? When 2 cables running in and out of it are they red battery cables?


...or a handful of smaller wires as well.......could be a Blue Sea fuse block.


It would be nice if you could post a picture of that......

[Scalf77]

I would agree the easiest thing to do is replace with AGM batteries. It appears you leave the van unattended for long periods of time. Are you relying just on solar to keep the batteries charged during that time? 100 amps could be a little low to accomplish that, you would have to check that you are not getting behind the curve. You could also plug in and allow the shore power to keep the battery in float.

If you can't plug in and not sure that you can rely on solar the best practice id to get home from your trip. Then make sure that you bring the battery to a full charge, this means you will need to see it go from bulk, to absorption, to float. At that point you would turn off everything or pull fuse or battery disconnect.

If moving to a Battleborn you have a couple of choices, remove Separator/ACR and go with a DC to DC charger, or you could go with Li-BIM 225 to replace the ACR. There are a few variables in picking the DC to DC, a lot depends on available alternator power. Most DC to DC are referenced by output power, so if it a 30 amp output, it could be 45 amp or higher on input. When choosing it is good, to pick one that has some flexibility in programing output. It should be noted that Sterling DC to DC actually states their sizes on input, so sterling 60 amp may put out 45 amps.

Blue Sea ACR 762X


Blue Sea ACR 7610 or 7611

Surepower Separator


Li-BIM 225


-greg