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Old 08-26-2008, 07:02 PM   #11
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Charlie, I did think about that. My reasons for upping the amps a bit were assorted, and collectively reasonable to me. First, I only went from 15 to 20. Secondly, the point of window motor current draw in the wiring is close to the source (fuse), and is NOT through the long length of the wiring harness going back to the reverse lights. And, to fully open or close the windows is only a five second event. Nothing compared to the constant load of a headlight, heater, inverter, etc. And, all the SMB installed wiring I've seen always looked to have some headroom on the safe side of capacity. Nothing smoking yet!

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Old 08-26-2008, 07:57 PM   #12
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Hey Jeffrey, way to go!!!! Glad you finally got the windows working the way you want them. Sorry if I messed you up with my first post. My bad, but I guess that made it your problem. Now I owe you one ... and I hate that.
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Old 08-26-2008, 08:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie56
Not to ask a dumb question, but, Can you safely do that? I mean simply bump up the fuse size. I'm no electrician, but doesn’t the wire size come into play? If you bump the fuse size up and the wire is sized and bundled to work with a 15A fuse, then heat is going to be generated, potentially to the point where things start melting. For instance a 110v 15A house circuit can be 14g wire. If you bump the fuse to 20A, the wire needs to be 12g. Or perhaps the wire size is sufficient to handle the 20A and I should just shut up.

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It's not a dumb question. If you don't know the answer, it is not a dumb question

And it could be a problem in a house - certainly an inspector would fail it and you would have to put it back.

But, like Jeffrey said, it is intermittent use in this case. The wires may get a little warmer, but the window is up/down before the insulation gets soft or melts.

In the house, you can and do have long term loads that can soften/melt the insulation and cause the house to burn down.

Mike
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