Right Angle Bending 1/0 Wire?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

My only input would be to adhere to minimal bend radius, If I needed sharp turn I might use a power post or bus bar. Many times the fuse block itself can be used to make the 90 degree turn.

-greg

Originally Posted by gahamby

Consider cutting a half round from a length of 1" or so pipe and putting that in the inside corner of your bender. That might soften that bend a little.

Both ideas are very, very good----I'll re-examine my layout and attachment ideas with both in mind.

Final assembly should no later than this weekend, parts are en-route at this moment. I might do a mock-up of my proposed layout if all needed parts arrive in the next few days. Any insight into my ideas would be greatly appreciated even if its harsh criticism etc.

Thanks guys---and girls too!

[gahamby]

Post a pic or diagram when you can.

[Bellpilot]

What I have been told is a 90 degree bend in wire especially this size will significantly add resistance which will result in heat. I would only do a sweeping radius turn. There are way more experts on this forum than me and likely will be giving their opinions on this.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by gahamby

Post a pic or diagram when you can.

I will definitely do that---the plan keeps evolving in my head until I have all the parts in hand. I have an idea of what it should look like and another that'll be dictated by how this will be used when deployed.

Originally Posted by Bellpilot

What I have been told is a 90 degree bend in wire especially this size will significantly add resistance which will result in heat. I would only do a sweeping radius turn. There are way more experts on this forum than me and likely will be giving their opinions on this.

You could be very correct and once the layout is finalized I'll defer to those with more knowledge of DC current flow along a wire path.

I would 100% agree in a fluid flow circuit a 90* bend introduces resistance but cannot speak to electrical current.

I had thought to use an in-line re-settable 150 amp circuit breaker but have since decided to use the ANL fuse & holder as its more reliable and quicker to trip under an over-current situation. Lay out-wise the CB would be easier but could be a sacrifice of safety.

[JWA]

I'm still plugging away at this project but OMG what an ordeal its been.

I discovered the red cable I'd bought was actually 2/0 instead of 1/0---the printing was difficult to read AND the seller had received the wrong material from the vendor---their entire lot was the same 2/0 gauge. They gladly exchanged that for the correct stuff so that small problem solved.

Since last posting I've refined my cable placement, found various different terminal configuration that will allow me to forego the severe bends I anticipated using. I'm awaiting a few elbow terminals, they seem to be somewhat rare---these are on their way now: https://remybattery.com/cable-connec...ctor.html#347=

My Anderson PowerPole connectors are ready for completion but final assembly and first run test will have to await the arrival of the elbow terminals. Since they'll pretty much dictate the final layout I'm getting impatient with all these delays.

[JWA]

So just about to finalize my layout and commit to attaching the components to my HDPE mounting platform photos follow:



Nothing is secured just yet. These following is the jumper cable-like assembly I'll use connecting to inverter to the big truck battery array:





A few facts:

-The blue oblong tape blob is a proposed cut-out to be used as a handle dragging this thing around and placing it before use.

-The white area above the blue tape at the bottom of the image will be the final size and shape of the mounting platform.

Would appreciate any comments or advice against this arrangement so I don't burn down a $160,000 truck!

Thanks again all!

[Stewbie]

Originally Posted by gahamby

That inside corner worries me a bit. Along as you don't cut the insulation it's a nice field solution.I've rented hydraulic cable benders in the past for a large installation. When I've had to wire in tight enclosures I've gone with a more flexible cable. Type ENT (entertainment cable) 0r Type W (welding cable).

I too learned the benefit of good welding cable (wire). The guys at RoamRig done taught me good.

[Steve_382]

Another consideration is the type of cable. Home and industrial wiring has much fewer strands than automotive wiring. A building doesn't have the vibration problems that automotive wiring has. Important to use the right cable for auto purposes.

[JWA]

All components and wire (SGR SAE J 1127) were sourced from automotive suppliers, the cable from a big truck supply house in business for well over 50 years. That outfit also custom makes electrical cables and hydraulic hoses with machine attached ends and fittings.

From a website other fittings were purchased: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/wel...-SGR-SAE-J1127

I hope that info helps move the conversation beyond the type of cable used here.

[posplayr]

Fuses should be as close to the battery (or any battery) as practical. The reason is if a long cable extending from the battery should be shorted (back to the battery), the fuse next to the inverter will do nothing to protect the wire between the battery and the short.