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Old 08-06-2022, 01:12 PM   #1
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Roof Aux Lights: where to route wiring?

Hey guys

As I‘m about to repaint the van I was thinking about possibly adding additional lights to my roof rack. Not sure what and where yet.

When thinking about the wiring I somehow have to get from the roof to my dash and also from the battery (house battery somewhere under the van).

Where do you typically route your wires through? Drill a hole in the roof?!

If so I could prepare it already BEFORE I repaint the roof and protect from corrosion properly instead if drilling 2 months later through the fresh paint…

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Old 08-06-2022, 04:19 PM   #2
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I would think that you would want to come through the roof near the driver-side B-pilar.
There are plenty of wires running along the roof on the driver's side.

Driving lights probably don't use more than 5A so I would be tempted to see if I could piggy pack on to something there. Otherwise, you can come across the firewall (from the battery) just below the hood and then done through a rubber gland below the brake master. From there you can go below the driver's plastic step cover.

If you are doing a rear backup camera you would come from the stereo along the same path to the B-Pilar and straight back.

Any dash switches would also come from the dash area to the driver's side where you might have a relay if you thought you needed it.
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Old 08-06-2022, 08:40 PM   #3
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Guess it depends on where your roof rack is. I came in just in front of the 3rd brake light, that way I ran all wires down the back of the van where their is easy access and have switches on the inside rear door, so have camping lights left, right, rear and front. Then have switches in the cab with wires running along the frame so I can also turn them on from cab. (Ie rear camping lights double as reverse lights, and front camping are 2 of the 4 front facing spot lights).
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Old 08-06-2022, 09:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by SheepShagger View Post
Guess it depends on where your roof rack is. I came in just in front of the 3rd brake light, that way I ran all wires down the back of the van where their is easy access and have switches on the inside rear door, so have camping lights left, right, rear and front. Then have switches in the cab with wires running along the frame so I can also turn them on from cab. (Ie rear camping lights double as reverse lights, and front camping are 2 of the 4 front facing spot lights).
I guess i had in mind driving lights controlled from the dash. Really anywhere on drivers side or back close to reinforcement. If he takes out the front headliner he will have a much better idea what is behind.
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Old 08-06-2022, 10:31 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses so far!

Right now I can imagine the following future add ons:
- front LED bar/ spot lights
- a lamp over the barn doors
- additional turn signals to the back
- back up lights
- rear view cam

Sounds like I don‘t really get around drilling a hole in the roof, right?
And then distribute from there to wherever needed on the rackClick image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2022, 11:52 AM   #6
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Sounds like I don‘t really get around drilling a hole in the roof, right?
And then distribute from there to wherever needed on the rackAttachment 45113
I would not be that concerned about drilling holes in the roof. For example, the biggest holes would probably be for solar panels and then you would want to use something like this. Personally, I have only installed a single large 360-watt residential panel and so there is only one wire pair required.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively, I have bought 1/2" thick ABS plastic scraps and use that to make a foot for mounting points.

They come in different colors. I drill a hole for a stainless bolt with a nylock nut, and then make an oversized counter sink from the bottom (e.g. twice the bolt size). This then provides a nice cavity to fill with silicone or your favorite sealant and I have had no leaks doing this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26581362033...4AAOSw9cpi7AuN

If you have to run wires along the rack, I would be tempted to put in a set of conduit runs that you just weld to the rack for the wires. I spaced mine out a little so I could slip shrink tubing over the end of the conduit to minimize water in the conduits. The attached picture is wiring on a motorcycle carrier. Tie straps take a beating, especially in hat Az weather so this is more robust all around.

Also if you are going to do a lot of wiring to a rack I would put a connector on it or make some providing so you can pull the rack down easy without having to but too many or your connection.
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Old 08-08-2022, 11:42 AM   #7
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Great, just ordered 2 of them (10$ for one 14 for 2…).
Let‘s see where I eventually set them up. Just 3s of thought say one passenger front for front and barn door light and one driver rear for back light, possibly camera,…

Let‘s see if I can start with the roof this weekend or next.
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Old 08-08-2022, 11:43 AM   #8
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Ahh, for forgot this comment:
As I have extruded AL profiles I can easily hide cables in the bottom slot, put a dust seal on and I‘m done. Should work I guess.
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Old 08-08-2022, 01:27 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by E-350 View Post
Ahh, for forgot this comment:
As I have extruded AL profiles I can easily hide cables in the bottom slot, put a dust seal on and I‘m done. Should work I guess.
I would avoid metal on metal parts being mounted if possible and this is where the plastic sheet comes it that is easily formed. For example, for a solar panel, the roof is not flat so you typically need spacers to better conform to the curvature of the roof.

By oversizing the bolt holes (through the plastic) you have a nice cavity t create an effective barrier to any water intrusion. In the picture, I coated the whole roof with elastomeric roof coating because of a problem with paint peeling, but as far as stopping the water the method above would have sufficed if you want to keep your Paint job intact.
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