Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-06-2022, 01:12 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 324
Roof Aux Lights: where to route wiring?

Hey guys

As Im about to repaint the van I was thinking about possibly adding additional lights to my roof rack. Not sure what and where yet.

When thinking about the wiring I somehow have to get from the roof to my dash and also from the battery (house battery somewhere under the van).

Where do you typically route your wires through? Drill a hole in the roof?!

If so I could prepare it already BEFORE I repaint the roof and protect from corrosion properly instead if drilling 2 months later through the fresh paint
__________________

E-350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2022, 04:19 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 317
I would think that you would want to come through the roof near the driver-side B-pilar.
There are plenty of wires running along the roof on the driver's side.

Driving lights probably don't use more than 5A so I would be tempted to see if I could piggy pack on to something there. Otherwise, you can come across the firewall (from the battery) just below the hood and then done through a rubber gland below the brake master. From there you can go below the driver's plastic step cover.

If you are doing a rear backup camera you would come from the stereo along the same path to the B-Pilar and straight back.

Any dash switches would also come from the dash area to the driver's side where you might have a relay if you thought you needed it.
__________________

posplayr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2022, 08:40 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
SheepShagger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 417
Guess it depends on where your roof rack is. I came in just in front of the 3rd brake light, that way I ran all wires down the back of the van where their is easy access and have switches on the inside rear door, so have camping lights left, right, rear and front. Then have switches in the cab with wires running along the frame so I can also turn them on from cab. (Ie rear camping lights double as reverse lights, and front camping are 2 of the 4 front facing spot lights).
SheepShagger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2022, 09:08 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheepShagger View Post
Guess it depends on where your roof rack is. I came in just in front of the 3rd brake light, that way I ran all wires down the back of the van where their is easy access and have switches on the inside rear door, so have camping lights left, right, rear and front. Then have switches in the cab with wires running along the frame so I can also turn them on from cab. (Ie rear camping lights double as reverse lights, and front camping are 2 of the 4 front facing spot lights).
I guess i had in mind driving lights controlled from the dash. Really anywhere on drivers side or back close to reinforcement. If he takes out the front headliner he will have a much better idea what is behind.
posplayr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2022, 10:31 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 324
Thanks for the responses so far!

Right now I can imagine the following future add ons:
- front LED bar/ spot lights
- a lamp over the barn doors
- additional turn signals to the back
- back up lights
- rear view cam

Sounds like I dont really get around drilling a hole in the roof, right?
And then distribute from there to wherever needed on the rackClick image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1929.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	196.1 KB
ID:	45113
E-350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2022, 11:52 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-350 View Post

Sounds like I dont really get around drilling a hole in the roof, right?
And then distribute from there to wherever needed on the rackAttachment 45113
I would not be that concerned about drilling holes in the roof. For example, the biggest holes would probably be for solar panels and then you would want to use something like this. Personally, I have only installed a single large 360-watt residential panel and so there is only one wire pair required.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively, I have bought 1/2" thick ABS plastic scraps and use that to make a foot for mounting points.

They come in different colors. I drill a hole for a stainless bolt with a nylock nut, and then make an oversized counter sink from the bottom (e.g. twice the bolt size). This then provides a nice cavity to fill with silicone or your favorite sealant and I have had no leaks doing this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26581362033...4AAOSw9cpi7AuN

If you have to run wires along the rack, I would be tempted to put in a set of conduit runs that you just weld to the rack for the wires. I spaced mine out a little so I could slip shrink tubing over the end of the conduit to minimize water in the conduits. The attached picture is wiring on a motorcycle carrier. Tie straps take a beating, especially in hat Az weather so this is more robust all around.

Also if you are going to do a lot of wiring to a rack I would put a connector on it or make some providing so you can pull the rack down easy without having to but too many or your connection.
Attached Thumbnails
2021-03-12 17.12.56.jpg  
posplayr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2022, 11:42 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 324
Great, just ordered 2 of them (10$ for one 14 for 2).
Lets see where I eventually set them up. Just 3s of thought say one passenger front for front and barn door light and one driver rear for back light, possibly camera,

Lets see if I can start with the roof this weekend or next.
E-350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2022, 11:43 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Posts: 324
Ahh, for forgot this comment:
As I have extruded AL profiles I can easily hide cables in the bottom slot, put a dust seal on and Im done. Should work I guess.
E-350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2022, 01:27 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-350 View Post
Ahh, for forgot this comment:
As I have extruded AL profiles I can easily hide cables in the bottom slot, put a dust seal on and Im done. Should work I guess.
I would avoid metal on metal parts being mounted if possible and this is where the plastic sheet comes it that is easily formed. For example, for a solar panel, the roof is not flat so you typically need spacers to better conform to the curvature of the roof.

By oversizing the bolt holes (through the plastic) you have a nice cavity t create an effective barrier to any water intrusion. In the picture, I coated the whole roof with elastomeric roof coating because of a problem with paint peeling, but as far as stopping the water the method above would have sufficed if you want to keep your Paint job intact.
Attached Thumbnails
SolarMounts.jpg  
__________________

posplayr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×