Routing new 12v wire for a new fridge.

[dbhosttexas]

My 93 came to me with a 110v "dorm fridge" shoved where the Original should have been in my RB11 floor plan, just above the port o potty cabinet and right behind the drivers seat... There is a pantry cabinet, and the Starcool above and below a closet before you get to the dinette bed with the electrical compartment.

I am wanting to install a Bodega 45l (1.6cu/ft) 12v compressor fridge. Physical dimensions wise it is a MUCH better fit than the dorm fridge, however...

How in the word can I cleanly route a new 12v cable from where the fridge installs to the electrical compartment?

I was thinking up through the inside edges of the valances for the day / night shades, and across the top / back of the big cabinet, staple the wire into place so it won't interfere with the day night shade. BUT...

Well I need to figure out how to get the day night shade valances apart (and back together) to do this. I can immediately tuck the wire behind the dinette cabinet end and pop out in the electrical compartment no problem, and the end of the day / night shade is where the connection for the fridge needs to be anyway. The new fridge will be covering most of that window anyway, might as well not be there...

Anyway, any advice on running this wire cleanly would be greatly appreciated. I am not really sure how these interior bits and bobs are assembled and I don't want to break anything....

[86Scotty]

Run a 10 gauge wire directly from fuse box or battery to fridge and put it on a 15 amp fuse. Thank me later. As for how you route it, that depends on the van and possibly what you are willing to live with. Easiest way might involve drilling some small holes in the back of cabinets. Coat hangers/wire fishes are your friend.

If we're talking about a Sporstmobile conversion here it all comes apart, you just have to figure out the order of things.

[1der]

Some pics and location of your house battery and fuse box would be helpful.

I did find this RB11 layout. Usually the electrical connections and battery(ies) are in the driver side couch base. Is this what you have?

Follow 86Scotty's recommendation for 10ga wire with a fuse near the battery or use one of the untapped fuse panel slots. Protection should be with a 15amp fuse.

I would absolutely consider drilling a small holes 1/4 to 3/8" diam at the base of and cabinet internals to route the wires from battery cabinet to fridge cabinet. Un-assembling 30 yr old SMB MDF and L brackets never reassembles with secure screws. Most times, I have had to fill each screw hole with high quality glue and let it dry for 24th s before reassembly.

Would be great to have pics and more info.

[dbhosttexas]

Could you explain the recommendataion for 10 gauge and 15 amp fuse when Bodega recommends 14 gauge wire, I was already planning on going a bit over that for a safety factor and going with 12 gauge wire. I am looking in the Bodega manual but not finding any recommendation for the fuse but the rated power use of the fridge is 60w, and 60/12=5 so I do understand having some overhead, but triple the rating? Pretty sure I am missing something important here...

And RB11 is as close as I can get description wise. Mine the beds on both sides of the aisle are the same short length, and my drivers side cabinet is another 50% longer than the official diagram / floorplan shows... The battery / electrical compartment is at the front of the drivers side bed just behind the StarCool unit and hanging closet.

It is a Sportsmobile conversionI am just unsure how things come apart cabinet and trim wise that isn't going to break it. If need be I can shoot a quick video explaining where I am coming from, and going to...

[1der]

Wire gauge depends on the length of the run from battery source to load. 12 gauge or 14 ga might be fine for short or very short runs. Use a wire size calculator to determine voltage drop. I try to keep around 2% or less voltage drop as my target. Keep in mind some calculators want the full round trip wire length ( positive plus negative lengths) not just the one way length. eg 10 feet from battery to load is 20 feet round trip.

Re fuse size - what fuse did the fridge come with?

[1der]

Here is one wire size calculator:
https://boathowto.com/wiresize/abyc/

There are plenty of others. Some are very detailed. One day I will book mark a simple one

[dbhosttexas]

Originally Posted by 1der

Wire gauge depends on the length of the run from battery source to load. 12 gauge or 14 ga might be fine for short or very short runs. Use a wire size calculator to determine voltage drop. I try to keep around 2% or less voltage drop as my target. Keep in mind some calculators want the full round trip wire length ( positive plus negative lengths) not just the one way length. eg 10 feet from battery to load is 20 feet round trip.

Re fuse size - what fuse did the fridge come with?

Haven't unboxed the fridge yet. I was planning on routing the wire, such that I am going to terminate at an unused fuse terminal in the block, not really wanting to do any additional wires direct to the battery as I am intending on relocating the battery to a dual battery bank under the van where the spare tire resides now... I have a friend that is a fair to middling fabricator fabbing up a battery box for it... I want to keep the wire runs to and from minimized as it would make it less likely to be damaged off road...

[BrianW]

If it originally had a 12v fridge from SMB it should already have a 12v wire to the OE frig location…

[dbhosttexas]

Okay popped the box with the fridge and looked at the connection. It has an inline fuse at 15 amps, and what appears to be 14ga wire.

I am not sure how to embed video files here, but I am sharing out a quick and dirty video showing what I am trying to do...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j7C...ew?usp=sharing

[dbhosttexas]

Originally Posted by BrianW

If it originally had a 12v fridge from SMB it should already have a 12v wire to the OE frig location…

I cannot say with any certainty what was originally in that space as I am at least owner #3, and there were changes made over time. However there is a 110v outlet behind where the fridge goes, and no 12v anywhere to be found close enough to matter... I seriously doubt original was a 12v fridge but rather a 110v run off the inverter.