Running your engine while using high draw items? - Page 2

**daveb** · 05-17-2009, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scatter

What alternator/regulator did you install DaveB. Ford unit?

Scatter it’s made by MCI but their web site is worthless for my use. Anyway the part number on the box is 88 1-2173-200

Quote:

Originally Posted by jage

The bypass switch is hooked to your ignition and I'm pretty sure mine engaged when the key was in "start" position. On my van it was a green wire, however if it was connected to something else in your build (or if I can't remember correctly) then it might be engaging when you have the key in run, or when the engine is running.

Yes that’s correct, SMB only uses the start position to activate it (dummy proof) but I would still like a bit more control over it. After the engine starts it take a few seconds for the alternator to kick in and I'll hear the separator ckick in. But once in it should help run the microwave unless I'm missing something. So the way I'm seeing it, you turn the key, the separator engages to help start, then it opens back up (after the ignition is in the run position) and waits until it see the alternator voltage ramp up in which it closes again and stays that way unless the voltage drops below 12.8. I guess I should have someone stick their ear back there when I start the engine and listen

I’ve checked the separator when it stuck once by removing the ground. I want to be able to override it if necessary. I might parallel a second as a backup unit that will have to be activated to use if necessary or I can install the battery switch I bought in Fort Collins last year…well one of these days maybe. For now I have a heavy duty jumper that I can use if the thing stays open. But I don’t like clips on terminals; they are not a good electrical connection. At least I can force a charge if needed and that's my main concern. One problem with the override (off the house battery as shown) would be if you accidentally left it on. It would stay engaged and then you’re setup to kill the starting batteries.

jage · 05-17-2009, 11:19 PM

In an emergency connect I always figured I would use the separator stud and nut on one side to join both wires in a permanent connection. Got to be careful wiring it hot, but better than a little jumper wire, or having several feet of cables between them.

Scalf77 · 05-20-2009, 03:47 PM

Started the V10, the starting battery was at 12.4 before starting and the house was at 12.78. I had the surepower wired for start assist mode. The current on the house battery took a 70 amp spike during the start, shot back up and settled in for a nice 7amp charge with the alternator putting out 14.3 volts.

Greg In Austin · 05-20-2009, 06:29 PM

OK... I am on the road this week (without SMB) ...someone remind me what I have on our 2008 SMB.

Isolator or Seperator?

This thing comes up so often and we have talked about it so much that I can no longer keep it straight.... <sigh>

Ford_6L_E350 · 05-20-2009, 07:47 PM

Greg,

I believe in 04 SMB dropped the isolator and went to the separator.

Mine has the SurePower 1315 with no start assist connected.

Mike

**daveb** · 05-20-2009, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ford_6L_E350

Greg,

I believe in 04 SMB dropped the isolator and went to the separator.

Mine has the SurePower 1315 with no start assist connected.

Mike

Mike are you sure it doesn't assist with the turning of the key? That's very interesting because I was told by SMB that my (06) rig does use the assist start. It appears like that is how my van operates. Like I posted, I might have to have someone go back there and actually listen. I have had some conflicting reports from SMB as well as members on this group. It could be a year issue as well.
DaveB

Greg In Austin · 05-20-2009, 11:59 PM

OK..... I am going to have to go out and inspect when I am back in town .... I need to solve my confusion.

jage · 05-21-2009, 07:55 AM

There are 3 small tabs on the side of the sure power. One will have a black wire (ground), one will be empty (think it is the light connection for an active light) and the third, and I think the center one, is "override". Mine had a green wire. You can pull it and test when it is powered with a light tester or meter or whatever.

**daveb** · 05-21-2009, 01:22 PM

Yes, the middle one goes to the start/ignition and over ride if wanted. The top is the light and bottom is ground.

Ford_6L_E350 · 05-21-2009, 04:20 PM

I'm sure the start assist is not connected on mine. May have something to do with 04 (first year of the seperator) and the Indiana build. As built, mine did not have a ground wire connected, and it did not work. On the first trip I had to rig a cable from the cigar lighter to the house 12V outlet and charge the house batteries through that.

Mike