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Old 02-18-2018, 12:37 PM   #31
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Sounds like it would be piddling in the wind..
Have a Surepower 1315-200 seperator and it usually engages/links whenever the microwave is used (i tossed the fridge a while back).
So guess what i'm wondering is when the batteries are Not separated, will either controller be damaged ?
When separated, there should be no issue ?

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Old 02-18-2018, 03:04 PM   #32
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Seasmith - if there is sun on your roof panel then it will be charging both house and starter batteries. The 5 watt will do nothing. If your roof panel is not in the sun and you place the 5watt in the sun, then the 5 watt (less than 1/2 amp) will provide a less than 1/2 amp charge to the battery it is connected to.

When you refer to using the microwave the BlueSea “engages”, it actually is disengaging the two battery banks as the inverter is drawing your house battery bank down below 12 volts, even with the solar panel receiving full sun. It is doing this to protect the starter battery. Turn off the microwave and then solar charger can again provide higher than 12.7 volts (or whatever) and the BlueSea engages the two banks again. I

You shared you get lots of sun on the roof panel lots of the time. It is taking care of both batteries. No need for the 5w thing at all. Is there something else going on that is making you concerned about charging? Personally, I would see what could be done to get another (or two) 100 watt panels up on the roof.
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Old 02-18-2018, 03:32 PM   #33
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Personally, I would see what could be done to get another (or two) 100 watt panels up on the roof.



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Old 02-18-2018, 09:06 PM   #34
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Gar- I think the long term longevity, or lack thereof, of the flexible solar panels out on the market has been well documented over the years. I could be wrong but it looks like the panel you referenced is of similar design in that the solar cells themselves are flexible. Even if the cells are small rigid units mounted to a flexible panel, I would still be cautious of it holding up long term. The connections between each cell will be flexed when deploying and when putting away for storage, something that will no doubt put stress on those contact points.

I supplemented my roof mounted 137W Kyocera with one of the Renogy suitcase units, they are available with/without their own charge controller. It works great as a supplement to my mounted panel and gives me some flexibility to maximize my solar input.


Without controller

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-wa...-o-controller/

With controller

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-100-wa...olar-suitcase/

It also looks like they have one with a waterproof controller
I added an external plug in that is connected to my charge controller

I made a storage box for it mounted under the rear shelf
I like that suite case set up and the storage for it. Nice and clean, plus having a suitcase set up allows you to park in the shade and put the suitcase in the sun if needed.
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:27 PM   #35
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You shared you get lots of sun on the roof panel lots of the time. It is taking care of both batteries. No need for the 5w thing at all. Is there something else going on that is making you concerned about charging? Personally, I would see what could be done to get another (or two) 100 watt panels up on the roof.
Thanks 1der,
Actually it is the hood area that gets strong AM sun, and what i'm looking for is some fairly portable setup to harvest that morning sun, and also be easy to derig if we need to move quickly.
The 100w Renogy is mounted on a ground-based easel facing South, so gets its main sun midday.
I have been starting the engine when microwaving, so as Not to draw down the starting battery, and that is what I'm trying to get away from doing.
Guess there are no simple options ...
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:49 PM   #36
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seasmith - I am guessing your setup is as follow:
Inverter connected to the house battery, Blue Sea separator located between the house battery and the starter battery. Microwave plugged into the inverter running off the house battery.


If the foregoing is how the system is configured, then starting the engine when microwaving is helpful to the house battery if the rpm's are held at or above 1100/1150. The separator may provide alternator current to the house battery with the engine running, certainly if the rpms are high enough.

Running your inverter should have no impact on your starter battery when the engine is off as the separator will disengage it from your house battery once the house battery is being drawn upon to invert for the microwave usage.
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:39 PM   #37
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Ider- I don't know from Blue Sea, it's a SurePower 1315-200 separator, but yes that is the set up. I think the rpm's are high enough, that's why i said the batteries are connected when running microwave, but will double-check that when have the chance.
I think i follow what you are saying here, but the ultimate aim remains to augment the power fed from the Renogy 100W through the house battery;
with a small, semi-portable solar system fed through the hood/starter battery, without disconnecting the Renogy controller.

Any ideas on that pipe dream ?

Thanks
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Old 02-19-2018, 09:03 PM   #38
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Ider- I don't know from Blue Sea, it's a SurePower 1315-200 separator, but yes that is the set up. I think the rpm's are high enough, that's why i said the batteries are connected when running microwave, but will double-check that when have the chance.
I think i follow what you are saying here, but the ultimate aim remains to augment the power fed from the Renogy 100W through the house battery;
with a small, semi-portable solar system fed through the hood/starter battery, without disconnecting the Renogy controller.

Any ideas on that pipe dream ?

Thanks
Your Solar Controller has more capacity than (1) 100 watt panel. If you purchase another 100 watt panel to use as a portable that would work. You just need to match the specs of your existing panel. You can mount the portable panel in parallel to the existing one. Because it will be in parallel you want to make sure the voltage output of the panels is close. You can probably go about .5 volt higher and be OK, (You generally have a little more voltage drop in a portable setup because the wires are longer).

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Old 02-20-2018, 08:22 AM   #39
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Thank you Greg and 1der
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:30 PM   #40
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New to the forum, have been doing solar for a few years. Last year I added a Goal Zero foldable panel to my fixed 135w panel. I thought I was a pretty smart feller by testing shade issues while connected in parallel and series. I came to my decision, but recently learned of this diode issue. Pretty sure if I had tested shading understanding the diode construction, I surely would have tested differently. Great thread to sticky.

One little trick I have been doing these few years is using Anderson power pole connectors for my solar suitcase and my cargo trailer solar installation. I like them like potato chips, can't eat just one. One handy use is when combined with an inline volt/amp meter (I like the Amazon GT Power RC 130A) device. I have 3 or 4, all wired with Power Pole connectors on each end. This lets me place the meter anywhere in my system, at the panel, before the controller, at battery etc.

Many of the solar controllers on the market are not terribly useful to see what is actually going on. Red light needs charging, green light fully charged is really not useful for testing or trouble shooting. The in-line meters are also easier than fiddling with a multi-meter. And a properly installed shunted meter is a must, but a meter like I noted sure comes in handy.

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