Solar questions for PH top: flex panels, controller

[BrianW]

Great info so far, thanks all! Keep it coming.

[86Scotty]

If I were you Brian I would just buy a couple of the Renogy 100's. I have bought bunches of them and they are a solid product in many ways. Plenty strong to mount right to bars or roof. On my old SMB Rusty I used the existing PH bolts/holes (extended length) to mount a simple rack to hold them. I changed this around a time or two but I bet it's documented way back in my photo albums. They are thin aluminum so easy to drill and attach anywhere with stainless hardware.

Felix (2exentrix) has a great idea about remote solar though. I did this since I also don't have room to carry a suitcase. I got a Renogy flexible 100 watt panel and keep it under the bed. There is almost nothing to these things, you'll never feel it under your mattress. Paired with a 25' cable I can put it anywhere near the van, 50' or more if you wanted to more flexibility for shade parking. 25' gives me enough lead to put it on my hood, cover the windshield or in my case I have rigid velcro mounted to it and my RTT so I can mount it up there when I like. I just have to be mindful of the wind.

So, my recommendation is both!

[Scalf77]

maxx, nice link.

I forgot to answer if the DC to DC charger can replace the Surepower unit? The answer would be yes.

I agree with Scotty and Twoxentrex you should be able to find a way to store portable solar. The two panels below are 80 watts, and held together with a zipper glued on back of the panels




-greg

[lmpetersen]

I am glad that someone posted this because I was just wondering myself! I came up with my own idea...that might be helpful for brainstorming...but also if I am way off in my thinking, please correct me.

My current plan is:

- Take my 100w rigid panel (it's a cheap Nature Power unit that I bought from a buddy for $50)
- Mount it to my existing roof rack
- Wire the solar panel with short weather proof leads (SAE)
- Mount the controller in the engine bay, connect to battery, and also wire with an SAE lead.
- Use a long SAE to SAE cable to run between the controller and the panel

My thoughts on this are that:

1) I dont want to cut a hole in the PH roof for wires
2) I only need a panel to keep my starting battery charged, I do not have a kitchen in my SMB
3) This flexibility allows me to easily remove the panel if needed

[Klompen]

I saw a video of a solar installation using flexible panels, but putting "corrugated plastic" panels between the roof and the panels. This was designed to provide air movement under the panels and avoid the problems that flexible panels have when they are just glued down to the roof. Unfortunately, I can't find that video again to list the link and I don't know how well it has performed.

[SteveW]

This might be it:

https://youtu.be/hROYaqY83v4

SteveW
Southern California

[Klompen]

That is not the one that I saw, but he's using the same material. I actually like his better because the components are removeable. The one I saw stuck everything down with 3M VHB tape.

[Fool120]

I used VHB Tape and 3M 5200 sealant to glue the flex panels to my high top. One pic is the Tape down edged with sealant. Watch out the tape is really sticky and strong, especially when warm out. I later put more marine sealant around the outer edge. The other pic is of the panels stuck on. Later I taped down the cables with RV roof tape.

[KenInRockwall]

I have semi-flexible panels mounted on aluminum frames that I made and added adjustable supports for varying the angle, allowing for more optimal positioning relative to the sun. I can place them on the ground or on the roof rack. I have anchors to use in each situation to keep them in place. I had the regulator/controller and wiring installed by Sportsmobile during the initial set up. I made extension cables to allow for more flexibility in placement of the panels relative to the vehicle. This arrangement has worked well for me. I also made covers for the panels from items (plastic tarps, moving blankets and industrial strength velcro) that I mostly had in my garage. The velcro glue does not hold well on the plastic tarp, so I ended up adding snap fasteners. The covered panels fit perfectly inside the back of my vehicle for transportation, but they could also be tied down on the roof rack. Since I leave the vehicle alone for hours during hikes, I use a 6 foot cable (purchased at a hardware place) with padlocks on each panel to help with security. This does not make them entirely theft proof, but will certainly impede all but the most determined thief.

[Metaltipsandtricks]

I was asking myself these same questions a few months. I looked into flexible panels. Discovered they can lose up to 30% of there wattage in the first year. So if you want to use them get an extra one to composite for the loss in power. I did come up with a way of mounting them to plastic sheet. The sheet is very light it looks like a bunch of Small square tubes glued together. Sorry I can’t remember the name of the product .
After my research I went with 3 150w ridge panels. It dose make lifting the manual top difficult. Im planing on installing a electric top in the next few years. One thing I wish I would have done was buy 2 - 200w panels. They would have fit better across the top. And I think would have been a touch lighter. I hope this helps