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Old 09-11-2016, 02:42 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
....not sure what you mean by terminating to the fuse on the fuse panel....
Never mind, I see now in the second picture that this is just an line fuse block. I thought maybe this was your controller going to your BlueSea distribution panel, should have known better.



I use a inline ATO fuse holder between the Fiberglass top and where it goes through the van roof.

-greg

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Old 09-11-2016, 03:03 PM   #12
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.... that amount of amps is a lot to ask from a spade connector to handle. I would recommend a cable lug terminal for for anything north of 10 amps. If there is any consolation to this is you might have just found a point of high resistance that's been robing a chunk of your solar power.

-Eric
Yes, ditching the screw terminal and using butt-crimps with an inline ATO fuse holder.....

sadly, this fuse block is not in the alternator circuit.....it's alternator current that my house batteries don't see much of......



Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
Never mind, I see now in the second picture that this is just an line fuse block. I thought maybe this was your controller going to your BlueSea distribution panel, should have known better.

-greg

Correct, this is just a 6 circuit inline fuse block...not a distribution fuse block.
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:33 PM   #13
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Looks like a soldered pressed connection??? I agree about that type of connection as not being the best type to use for heavier amperage.
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:39 PM   #14
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Looks like a soldered pressed connection???

No soldered connections.......the spade on the wire from the solar panels is a crimp; that spade was screwed to the fuse block terminal.
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Old 09-11-2016, 03:53 PM   #15
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Hi boywonder, just wanted to suggest another option for fusing for your incoming solar. I went with a Blue Sea Maxi fuse and block. The reasoning was to limit the amount of resistance through the whole setup and have a way to disconnect the incoming solar easily if I have an issue. Granted all fuses have some level of resistance proportional to current leading up to blowing. But the Blue Sea block here is pretty beefy, the maxi fuse blades have a lot of surface area in the block to reduce resistance and the screws tighten down on the blades for the same reason. Now this dose contradict the advice of solar folks that as a disconnect this is an issue because I need a screwdriver to get the fuse out but I sleep fine. Lastly I prefer cable lugs so I can replace the block if need be without cutting the wires. I crimp my own lugs these days. Nothing fancy. Just Asia's finest Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper and some practice.

And to answer about fusing between panels and controller. Test answer is yes and have a disconnect in case of an emergency. In an ideal world every positive wire on a vehicle would be protected. Occasionally it's just not practical though.


Cover removed for picture

This is in a cabinet near where the roof penetration is. Under the gray panel at the bottom of the picture is where the solar controller is. Just for reference I have 280w @ 17volt panels regulated by a Morningstar MPPT controller. When I've checked the most I've seen at the fuse area is 17 amps which is the max for my panels.

I'm confidant you'll design a safe and efficient setup, just wanted to share another option.

- Eric
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:15 PM   #16
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Wow, that's kinda scary. Clearly, there was increased resistance between the fork terminal and the screw. Often times, tightning down the screw on a fork terminal causes the forks to spread, reducing even further the minimal amount of contact area. A ring connector will prevent this, and one of adequate gauge should be able to handle the rated current of the wire. Glad you didin't have a van-bbq..........
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:51 PM   #17
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Glad there was only minor damage and you could find the culprit.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:44 PM   #18
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The reasoning was to limit the amount of resistance through the whole setup

- Eric
Thanks!

Yes, this has puzzled me a bit in the van wiring.....for example I'm running 8AWG wire to a 300W power amp in the van, fused with with a big, see-through auto-audio fuse, and I look at the tiny filament in the fuse and think "I've got a couple of fire hoses connected together with a piece of thread......as far as resistance goes....

I just installed an in-line ATO fuse holder in place of the fuse block using some high quality heat shrink butt-splices but I like the idea of a lower resistance fuse.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:50 PM   #19
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Often times, tightning down the screw on a fork terminal causes the forks to spread, reducing even further the minimal amount of contact area. A ring connector will prevent this, and one of adequate gauge should be able to handle the rated current of the wire.
Yes, lesson learned here...a great place to use ring terminals....lots more surface area for the screw head.

In my day job I design medical devices and all connections to chassis ground studs must be ring lugs to pass the various UL CSA and IEC requirements.....both for ground continuity and to prevent the ground connection from falling off if the nut loosens. Typically star lock washers are also required between each ring lug and between the ring lug and the nut and sheet metal.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:57 PM   #20
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In another thread, you suggested Midnite Solar's KID controller. I looked into it as I am trying to wrap my head around an overall electrical plan. Their diagrams use a lot of breakers, no fuses really. Any advantages there maybe?? I know they use a GFI breaker between the panel and the controller, and then a regular breaker at every turn.

http://www.midnitesolar.com/pdfs/Kid..._Par_REV_B.pdf

I honestly don't know the advantages of a breaker over a fuse other than you can reset a breaker
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