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Old 09-12-2020, 05:09 PM   #11
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Thanks Phil and Scalf77. I think the "start" wire is connected wrong at the ignition since it is always on, not just during start. I just got the van used, but saw where two owners ago they said to keep it plugged into shore power when possible. I'm in a condo where that is impractical, but I get plenty of solar. I think the start assist drained the engine batteries completely. Right about the ground and active monitoring. The unit is way underpowered to keep the 12v refrigerator running 24x7, so my main concern is not house batteries, but engine power for starting.

Can anyone point me to a diagram of the ignition connector? I'd like to get the start wire in the right place whether or not I replace the separator.

BTW, thanks Scalf77 for the battery-isolators-separators-switches-and-more-updated-2020 post. Very helpful.

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Old 09-12-2020, 05:25 PM   #12
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I know longer have my E350, or the electrical documents. You could find some online documents a www.alldatadiy.com, for a fee.

I would not hook the start assist up to the "start" circuit anyway, it is better to have it going to thru a switch preferably momentary. You should also look at putting a 10 amp fuse on the Surepower ground connection, as a safety feature.

-greg
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:07 AM   #13
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The Surepower Relay coil type separators have a few downsides....one is that when you have a little sun, the coil is energized and a chunk of your solar panel output goes to heating the relay coil instead of charging the battery. It also has mechanical relay contacts that wear over time.


The Blue Sea ACR units are solid state devices without mechanical contacts or coils. Two popular models are the 7610 ($) and the 7622 ($$). Either of these are an upgrade from the Surepower separators IMO.
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Old 09-18-2020, 01:53 AM   #14
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FWIW the separator has been miswired, probably from the factory in 2006. The starter assist lead goes directly to an always hot terminal on the steering column. It should have had a momentary switch or gone, at least, to the actual starter lead.

Given the current draw of the solenoid I'm replacing it with a Blue Sea 7620 and installing the included switch for start assist.
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