We are in process of having SM upfit a sprinter and wondering where they place vents for the compressor frig? We are subbing a NovaKool 4500 for the Iso130 but they are virtually the same size and have the same venting requirements. I've looked at pix of the galley but I have never seen anything that appears to be a vent(s). Anybody know how they vent these things?
On a side note, I can't think of a reason to get an AC/DC frig as opposed to just DC. If you're on shore power, it should go through the converter and distribute to the frig as DC anyway, right? Doesn't seem like it would put any extra load on the battery this way. What would be the advantage of an AC/DC unit in an upfit van?
I have a 30 year old Norcold, so I don't know if this is still true, but mine cools faster on AC than on DC. Other than that, as long as your converter is big enough it's probably fine to go with just DC.
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N8SRE
1990 E-250 Sportsmobile w/ penthouse top, converted when new by SMB Texas.
Thanks ORV, I appreciate the reply. Like you said, unless the converter was undersized and not providing the rated amperage to the unit, I can't see why it would provide less cooling on DC than AC. It's a poser.
The converter's large enough but I haven't examined all the wiring, so it's possible there's a voltage drop. The difference is not dramatic but it's there; it will hold the same temperature either way but it takes longer on DC. I usually pre-cool on shore power before trips, otherwise it's on DC all the time.
If I were replacing it I don't think I'd pay extra for AC capability.
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N8SRE
1990 E-250 Sportsmobile w/ penthouse top, converted when new by SMB Texas.
Thanks ORV, that sounds reasonable. I was told by a salesman that the DC would be harder on the battery but that just doesn't make sense unless someone did some crazy circuit. I appreciate your feedback, it makes sense to me and I have yet to hear a compelling reason to pay the 10% extra for the AC. Any reasonable converter should be able to handle the <5A current of these efficient units. The only scenario I came up with that it makes sense is if you were using the unit in a garage or somewhere that didn't have DC.