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Old 12-25-2017, 08:25 AM   #21
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Great job bud!

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Old 12-25-2017, 07:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthayn View Post
T








Quick question...I have the same EB and no side door glass..and sofar in the limited times Ive driven it I have noticed a HUGE problem seeing out the passenger side and keep saying to myself I need side doors with at least one window...

do you think the passenger side window you installed on the flat panel would be a good compromise to not adding door windows? (seeing headlights at night coming toward you) or should I quit being a moron and get doors with windows?
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:53 AM   #23
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I haven’t driven the van enough since adding the windows to see if it helps with blind spot. It’s better than nothing. I am hoping to find new side doors with windows, but I’m not sure it hear will happen.

My other though is a camera system with a rear view camera and two blind spot cameras that mount to the side mirrors. I still need some research on that, but it seems you can find them pretty cheap. Cheaper than a couple of CRL windows.


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Old 12-27-2017, 11:40 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthayn View Post
I haven’t driven the van enough since adding the windows to see if it helps with blind spot. It’s better than nothing. I am hoping to find new side doors with windows, but I’m not sure it hear will happen.

My other though is a camera system with a rear view camera and two blind spot cameras that mount to the side mirrors. I still need some research on that, but it seems you can find them pretty cheap. Cheaper than a couple of CRL windows.


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I know Im going with a large screen constant on rear camera...didnt think about the side cameras!!

Im gonna look into that!

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Old 01-06-2018, 06:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cthayn View Post

My other though is a camera system with a rear view camera and two blind spot cameras that mount to the side mirrors. I still need some research on that, but it seems you can find them pretty cheap. Cheaper than a couple of CRL windows.
Easier to install too!

Here's a site some may already be familiar with, have some good selections of kits as well as individual components: https://www.rearviewsafety.com/safet...ble-model.html

I'm not familiar with their quality or long-term durability but IMHO for their prices at worst they'd be good starter systems for this sort of blind spot monitoring.

HTH
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:10 AM   #26
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Sound Dampening and Insulation


The warmer weather continued, and I have had some time to work on the van. I started the first steps of sound dampening and insulation.


The first area to attack was the cab roof. I took off the headliner. One of the best tools I bought for the van work was a set of auto trim tools. After years of using screwdrivers, pliers and just pulling off the clip, these tools make it pretty easy to remove trim without damaging the trim or breaking the clips. I used these tools all day and it made removing the van trim easy.




After removing the headliner I applied a layer of 80 mil Noico material. There are many options in all cost ranges. I chose Noico because it was made of butyl rubber, rather than asphalt, but less cost than some of the other more expensive materials line Dynamat. So far I am happy on how it applied to the walls and it seems to make a huge difference in vibration and sound.




I put the Noico on most of the roof panel. I've read that you only need 35-40% coverage to be effective, but it seem easier to just put up a layer of material across most of the roof. Since it was cold outside, I kept the Noico in the house and grabbed one piece at a time and stuck it to the van body while it was warm and pliable. I bought the Noico metal roller to ensure the materials was firmly stuck to the metal panels. I hope I never have to pull this off.

After the Noico I put in a layer of Thinsulate insulation. It was a little compressed between the headliner and roof, but I think it is better than nothing.



I also used thin strips of wood to stuff strips of Thinsulate in the hollow cavities above the door and the windshield. I'm not sure how much good it does. It seems
the metal of the van will transmit heat and cold around the cavities, but it only took a few minutes. Just as I clipped in the last headliner clip, I remembered that I am getting a CCV top and this roof area will be covered by the "insulated" area of the poptop. Oh well, it was good practice.




Next came the cab doors. Ford has a good system for attaching the door panels. Just screws and hooks. None of those plastics clips that will break no matter how careful you are. So it was easy to pull off the door panel and peel back the later of clear plastic. I cleaned off the metal panel and added sections of Noico inside the door. I had to cut them into 6-7" wide strips to be able to thread them through the holes in the door and apply them to the door panel.



After putting in the Noico, I wanted some thermal insulation in the door. I did not want to use anything flexible due to the window mechanisms. I did not want anything that would catch as the window went up and down. There was just less than an inch of clearance between the exterior door panel and the retracted window. I picked up a sheet of 1/2 thick ridged insulation from the local home center. These were cut into 6" X 24" sections and I used double sided tape to hold these tight against the exterior door panel. I should have used some foil tape to seal the sections together, but I did not think of it, so I may have to go back and
do that.



The final layer of insulation was a layer of Reflextix that I attached to the inside of the interior door panel. I held this in place with some small pieces of double sided tape. I just wanted to hold it in place until the panel was attached to the door. I had to cut openings for the hooks and the speaker, but with the airspace of the door interior, I hope this will add some insulation value. I think this will be much better than nothing and it took little time and money to do this.




After the cab doors, I completed the barn doors and rear doors. This was the same process of Noico covering a section of the outside panel and some thermal insulation. For these doors I used Thinsulate, held in place with some spray adhesive. (I missed taking pictures with the Thinsulate). I also stuffed some Thinsulate in the channels around the windows. I used a metal fishing tape or thin strips of wood to get some Thinsulate in.








Next I am looking for suggestions on how to insulate the cargo walls. I plan the same system of Noico and either Thinsulate or 1" ridge insulation, held in place with tape or spray adhesive. But I am

questioning on how to get access to the inside of the exterior wall panels. Most of the walls are covered by the interior metal panels. There are very few access holes and none are really big enough to get good access to large sections of the wall. None give access to the lower part of the wall or down in the rocker panel sections. Any good ideas?

I have debated cutting out sections of the interior panel, or cutting bigger access holes, but a review of the Ford Incomplete Vehicle Manual doesn’t allow for cutting of the lower section of the interior panels.


So any ideas are appreciated. I have not found much information through searching the forum.


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Old 01-08-2018, 05:19 AM   #27
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Re: insulating side walls

Do you plan any interior paneling similar to the factory plastic walls in the original work/cargo van?

BTW I also have a new-to-me E350 EB---I'll never go back to an E250 of any description now! This started life as a Club Wagon wheel chair lift van with raised roof including tall rear doors and windows all around. Those will be the first thing filled in---with my planned build they'll be covered by interior; in the event one is broken I don't like the idea of removing my interior to replace them. Bad part about that is I'm in the auto/truck glass biz.
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:52 PM   #28
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I intent on adding interior walls. While I have the plastic cargo liner, I’m not sure if it will work with my plans for the interior.

I will likely build walls of 1/4” plywood, covered will vinyl or some type of fabric. The plywood would be attached to wood framing pieces at floor, ceiling and mid point of wall. This would allow the ply to conform to the curvature of the van.

Any other ideas.




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Old 01-09-2018, 04:11 AM   #29
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@CTHayn

I agree the plastic panels typically don't work well with most types of homebuilt SMB variants so that's a good idea removing them before your build starts. First order of business should be the floor, as said I use 3/4" plywood without anything between it and the van floor. From there you can build inner walls of plywood leaving enough room for fiberglass insulation. (I prefer unfaced but the paper-faced type is acceptable too.

I've filled the lower half cavities of the interior walls with unfaced fiberglass but that's not really necessary. It doesn't harm anything but the trade off of labor & material for the limited benefit makes this a step you can avoid.

Be sure to insulate the roof panels between the horizontal ribs. Assuming you'll be using the 1/4" plywood or something similar as a headliner its better to leave the ribs bare---better contact to prevent rattles etc of the headliner material.

I do fill the door cavities with unfaced fiberglass. I did fabricate 3/8" plywood covers that are nothing more than copies of the thin pieces Ford uses on some cargo van's, not sure what trim level it is but its nothing special at all. I found my first set in a scrap yard consisted of one panel for each of the four cargo area door shells.

I went straight out overkill attaching these using 1/4-20 split body rivet nuts and stainless steel truss head Phillips-drive screws. This is sooo not necessary as any way these can be attached securely works well. I have cut into the side hinged doors to make additional storage space for items so having more substantial panels was important for strength and rigidity.

The benefit to door fill and covers is another noticeable road noise sound reduction.

That's a thumbnail sketch of what I do and have found effective for my needs. There is an aftermarket rear hot coolant heater and movable partition curtain for those times heating the rear area isn't needed. If you opt for another type of cabin heat for camping this sort of insulation would work well for that too.

HTH, glad to clear up any confusing comments made here!
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Old 01-09-2018, 06:09 PM   #30
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imo, 1/4" ply is thick for the walls. 1/8" (or 5 mm) Luan works fine and is much easier to form to the curves of the sides of teh van. Use a stiffener or doubler glued to the back of the Luan where needed.

Just thinking about insulation, hmmmm, 1/8" Luan glued up with a sheet of 1/8" Coroplast might be kind of nice...... Just make sure to run the Coroplast horizontally. Might have to give that a go.
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