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Old 12-16-2020, 12:58 PM   #81
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Also keep in mind aftermarket seats won't bolt up to factory seat bases and vice versa.

I always moved the seat tracks as far back as possible on the mounts. Some mounts even had a second set of bolt holes just at the very rearward limit of the mounting surface.
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Old 12-16-2020, 01:17 PM   #82
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Interesting sight on those buckets. They might be from a position further back in a van as they have both armrests. Most conversions only use the inner armrests and rely on the factory door armrest for outer armrest.

Eliminating the outer armrest helps move both driver and passenger closer to the doors. Driver more at steering wheel center and passenger legs further from doghouse.
No, I pulled them from the van my own self; they were the front seats and a second row single in front of all the camping stuff further back. That van did have flat custom door cards in it so these armrests did not interfere. I might get them during my next trip or make my own.

I'd have to redrill something on the bases in order to move the seats outward. Not likely unless I decide to do without the outer armrests.
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Old 12-20-2020, 05:13 PM   #83
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Put the stock front seats back in so I'll have working seatbelts. I will probably get different seats to use on the swivels now that I know the swivels fit the existing bolt pattern on the floor and what it will take to get the correct height for seats on those swivels. All that can wait until I've had a chance to strip out the existing floor to rustproof, soundproof, insulate and add flooring.
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Old 12-28-2020, 07:35 PM   #84
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Found out my curb weight today, courtesy of a local landscaping place where we've bought lots of rock and block for our various projects. Young lady at the counter let me drive up onto the scale. One empty van, one driver and one dog = 5,940 pounds.
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Also worked on a temporary mount for the dog's seat. Eventually, it will be bolted to the metal floor but I just need it to hold the dog when needed. Base pieces are slightly askew.
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Made a plywood sandwich to locate and anchor it.
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Old 12-28-2020, 08:36 PM   #85
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That weight seems good for all that glass and a big, tall top.
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Old 12-28-2020, 08:45 PM   #86
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That weight seems good for all that glass and a big, tall top.
2,700 kg. doesn't sound as bad. Or does it?
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Old 12-28-2020, 11:09 PM   #87
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That has me wondering what's heavier, a fiberglass high top or a penthouse top. My suspicion is the penthouse, because of the scissor lift mechanism.
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Old 12-29-2020, 04:38 PM   #88
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That has me wondering what's heavier, a fiberglass high top or a penthouse top. My suspicion is the penthouse, because of the scissor lift mechanism.
Probably depends on the builder. If it's just a molded roof section, then it's probably lighter but this particular one is taller than normal, it has a metal structure for additional strength, and it has an inner molded roof liner. I'd guess roughly 300 additional pounds, but the original metal roof and ribs are gone so deduct that. Maybe 150 pounds net gain? Just a guess.

Don't know if I'll be removing the liner from mine but I did find a photo of an FGME interior with the liner removed, a photo that I posted earlier. You can see the square tube structure. This pic was found on Pinterest and this van has the taller side doors with normal height rear doors, the reverse of mine.
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Old 12-29-2020, 04:46 PM   #89
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I began removing the floor for a thorough cleaning, de-bolting and de-bracketing the conversion stuff, rust treatment and soundproofing and insulation. It's pretty dirty under there so I've got a fun time ahead of me.
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The side walls had some wimpy mats of insulation that have slumped down over the years.
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Old 12-30-2020, 11:00 AM   #90
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Park it nose uphill and pressure wash all that crap out the back end.
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