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Old 07-17-2020, 05:58 PM   #11
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I agree with arctic traveler.



We also have a 5 pound tank with the same bracket from powertank.
I bolted it on the arms above the cabinet on the Aluminess bumper; above the likely impact zone. I know you don't have/want an Aluminess bumper, but I would not want to mount it low where it is likely to be impacted in case of a rear end collision.

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Old 07-19-2020, 08:20 AM   #12
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Having recently been rear-ended on the freeway at speed by a U-Haul non-driving cell phone yakking woman whose phone conversation was far more important to her than keeping assured clear distances ahead.

It's maybe not too likely a bad driver would create a catastrophic situation but why run that risk? Anything we can avoid is better than dealing with an unanticipated problem after the fact.

Were it me about to mount something as "heavy" as a filled propane tank to a door shell I'd strive to construct a shelf or mounting plate to carry most of the weight. I'd want it mounted with plenty of internal reinforcement so the weight is not carried solely by the door shell's thin exterior panels.

Just my ideas so use what's thought to best or safest---lots of ways to go here.
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Old 09-17-2020, 10:57 AM   #13
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I did end up doing this, so figured I'd upload a few photos to show what was done.

Also, definitely find myself more concerned with being rear-ended, but we managed to cross country from Durango CO to Johnstown PA and only touched Interstate for the last 30 miles or so of Ohio. Not that it's relevant, I know you can get rear-ended anywhere, just nice to know it's possible. Only took us 2 months. :P

And to clarify, I'm not against the Aluminess bumper, just have a hard time dropping $1000 or so every couple of weeks on the next "upgrade" and hoping an awning will drop out the sky here before I get into the rest of what'll happen on the back.





There are six of these square backers, two aren't shown in the picture as they're in between the metal of the door's exterior and interior panel. Bolts, nuts, and everything was easily found at our local ACE Hardware back in Durango, the tank came from Amazon and the bracket from powertank.com.

The door opens and closes with no issues. I ran the propane line beneath the van, away from any moving parts and secured it with a bag full of zip ties, which have held up across 5000+ miles, much of which was dirt and washboard. I don't love how the regulator and pressure gauge cause everything to stick out, but didn't hate it enough to buy different ones.

Might eventually build a black box around it all just to keep it hidden and neat, but for now it's working perfectly for us. Just running a two burner stove, the tank lasted a month and a half cooking an average of 2 meals a day on it.
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Old 09-18-2020, 08:58 AM   #14
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There's always someone to rain on a parade, but when it comes to propane on the back of a vehicle...

See 5.2.3 listed below.

Lengthy but important. Quoting an old SMB forum reply of mine.



"Thanks to wadewaydo for the NFPA link.

I have spent a few eye watering hours going through the rules and have put a list together that reflects the regs I am interested in.

Feel free to use this list at your own risk.

NFPA 1192- 2018

The NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles 2018 is available for purchase or free online only viewing by signing up as a member and using the built in online viewer. Go here to start: https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and...and...tail?code=1192 Click on “Free Access” and follow it from there.

There are also older versions posted online in PDF form.

Here are the sections that most interested me in looking at propane regulations in an RV:

3.2.3 Labeled. Appliance marked by symbol of authority having jurisdiction over the unit.

3.2.4 Listed. Appliance included on a list by an authority having jurisdiction over the unit.

3.3.3 Appliance. Note difference between “heating appliance” and “heat-producing appliance”.

3.3.47 Propane container. Difference between DOT cylinder and ASME tank.

5.2.1 Maximum propane container capacities. Maximum of three 105 lb water capacity cylinders. One or more tanks with a maximum water capacity total of 200 gallons. (0.8 m3).

5.2.3 Location of propane containers. Where cylinders or tanks can be mounted. Not on the rear exterior or the rear bumper.

5.2.5 Heat shielding of propane containers and piping. Containers 18” minimum to heat-producing anything. Needs air gap baffle otherwise. Piping and hose 4.5” minimum or needs air gap baffle.

5.2.15 Regulators. Two stage needed to match maximum input of all appliances.

5.2.19 Pressure relief valve discharge distances.

5.3.1.4 Two stages of pressure regulation to appliances.

5.3.2.5 Propane piping specifications for material. (7) Type K or L meeting listed specification.

5.3.4 Propane pipe sizing tables. Match length and Btu loads to diameter required.

5.3.5 Joints for propane pipe. No left and right nipples or couplings. Specs on other methods.

5.3.6.1 Joints for propane tubing. Flare ends. No ball sleeve or internal compression fittings.

5.3.7 Pipe joint materials. Approved for propane. Male threads only.

5.3.8.1 Routing and protection of tubing and hose. Not to be run inside any concealed construction.

5.3.8.2 Tight fitting grommets where tubing or hose pass through walls. Heat and weather resistant.

5.3.8.3,4,5 Tubing or hose to be protected and unconcealed.

5.3.12 Connections. Regulators are not allowed to be directly attached to the shutoff valve of a cylinder.

5.3.18 Propane piping support. Various distances for piping support requirements.

5.4.1 Appliance must be listed.

5.4.2 Appliances except ranges and ovens must be vented to the outside.

5.4.6.4 Rules on RV manufacturer ensuring propane fridge will still vent properly after removal and re-installation.

5.5.2.1 Flue gas outlet from fuel burning heating appliances minimum 3 feet to motor driven air intake for living space.

5.5.3.1 Air inlet or flue gas outlet from fuel burning heating appliances minimum 3 feet from gasoline fuel filler spout. Annex A5.5.3 describes exclusion of diesel filler spouts.

5.6.6.5 Protection clearances for ranges with various burner ratings.

5.8.1 Warning labels and operating instructions required.

6.3.1, 6.3.2, 6.3.3 Smoke, carbon monoxide, and propane detector requirements.

6.4.2 Fire extinguisher requirements.

6.4.5 Internal combustion generators.

Table B.1 and Figure B.1 show typical propane supply system requirements.

Annex C shows product standard requirements.

Index is on page 56.

Most interesting or unexpected rule is that only fuel burning heaters have a minimum exhaust distance from fuel fillers and then only when the filler is for gasoline. Fridge doesn't count.

Essentially straightforward enough.

Oh, and no compression fittings in the propane line.

Cheers,

G."
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Old 09-18-2020, 08:59 AM   #15
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Also 5.2.15 on regulators.
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:39 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Pntyrmvr View Post
There's always someone to rain on a parade, but when it comes to propane on the back of a vehicle...
Insurance companies, international borders and DOTs don't consider my van an RV, so as a law abiding citizen, I can't do so either. :P
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:49 AM   #17
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I just did something similar and mounted a trasheroo on the back door. My through bolts are near folds in the sheet metal. The metal is thin so I would be concerned with oilcanning and fatigue if the load was in the middle of a flat surface. Backing plates or big washers should help.
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Old 09-18-2020, 01:40 PM   #18
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If I were to do it (which I’m not), I would at least mount it higher up on the rear door, where it’s less likely to get hit in a rear-end collision. Most of the vans I’ve seen with them on the rear do this.
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Old 09-18-2020, 04:38 PM   #19
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Have you thought about an airtight, vented tank locker inside the van? There are several sites with DIY instructions for building one. I know it takes up room but a 5lb tank isn't all that big. You can install an electrically controlled valve so you don't have to access it except to remove it for filling.
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