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Old 05-22-2020, 09:47 AM   #51
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LSD - I am sure Someone here can expand.

I would like to know the details as well. I seem to recall something about lightly applying brakes at the beginning to help the LSD engage??? I may be way off on that.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:36 AM   #52
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Ray is correct, applying a little brake force when one wheel is spinning will help the L/S send torque to the other wheel. You likely have a clutch type (Ford factory type), and those clutches are prone to wear, making the L/S less effective over time. A new set of clutches and a proper amount of additive should restore performance. I'm not an expert, but even after having my L/S clutches replaced, I didn't get even wheel spin at all times, unlike you would get with a locker. I assume it has a lot to do with the surface your driving over and how much torque is being applied to the spinning wheel. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will correct me if I wrong........
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:22 PM   #53
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Would the one tire track indicate that the other wheel had traction and was getting some power? Seems like if it were 1 wheels drive, you wouldnít have moved at all. But maybe there was more grip than Iím envisioning.
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Old 05-23-2020, 09:58 AM   #54
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If you stated the mileage your vehicle has I may have missed it . Your L/S clutch pack is probably worn. They are easy to change but take time. If you have a semi float or a full float you need to slide the axles out to pull the carrier. If you try to do it in place it almost seems as it takes longer and harder to do. Things you will need: new oil a torque wrench 2 each 1/2" or 3/4" x 5-6" long bolts. 4 washers for these bolts and two nuts. On a semi float you need to pull the spring tensioner to get to the C clips on the axle, be careful and use needle nose vice grips so it does not take out an eye! Pull the c clips then slide the axles out and inspect them to make sure you have no twist in the splines. If you do replace the axle as it may go when your in Baja. Pull the carrier to a bench. Pull the cross pin, pull the clutch pack. Make sure you are soaking your new clutch pack in the oil while you are removing the old one or over night. Now this is why I say pull the carrier. The clutch pack has groved and flat washers. Stack them one grove and one flat, one side at a time. Place the new aligning clips in the carrier and stack your pack. You can now use the bolts washers and nuts to compress your pack.
THIS PART is totally up to you: at this time you can add an extra clutch disc if you like to make it an even tighter engagement. You can buy an extra pack or locate two of you best from the old pact for this step (1 for each side) AGAIN THIS IS TOTALLY UP TO YOU. Compress both packs with the bolts and one washer on each side one on the inner spider gear and one on the outside of the carrier. Make sure you put the nuts on the inside of the carrier to be able to remove the bolt from the outside. Once you have both clutch packs and gears held in place insert you carrier pin spider gears. Place both gears in the carrier directly across from each other. You can use the pin temporarily to align them on the proper teeth of your side gears. Once correct teething is achieved you can remove the pin, you can use a brass punch to turn the side gears to align the pin hole with the gears. Compress your tensioner ever so carefully in a vice, use the needle nose vice grips to hold the tension, slide your tensioner in place. Slide your pin into the carrier you may have to jiggle the tensioner with taps to align everything so the pin can fully seat. Now replace either your roll pin or retaining bolt (which ever you have) to hold the pin in place. You can now reassemble your diff. Make sure you used loctite where needed and you get proper torque specs for your particular axle. There will not be any axle c clips on a full float as they are held in by the hub bolt, hence why they are preferred for heavy weight among other reason I will not go into. I'm probably missing something! Oh yeah you can't get lockers for semt floats other than an ARB locker or lunch box lockers. I do not like ARB's as they can be problematic, O ring leaks, air compressor tank leaks, air comp failure, wiring issues, broken lines, solenoids ect ect... I have never had a lunch box locker but they seem to be too weak for our heavy overloaded vans. IMOP!!! If you need a locker convert it to 4x4 and put one in the front, but this also has its own issues on tight mountain trails!!!
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Old 05-23-2020, 12:49 PM   #55
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Setting up a limited slip too tight can result in some bad behavior. Mine was set too tight after a total rebuild, and despite twice the required amount of L/S additive, it was very sticky. When turning sharply, it jerked and made a loud noise, loud enough that nearby folks would stare and wonder what was happening. After living with it for a bit, I took it back to the shop where they loosened it up, but probably to the point where it is now less effective.
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Old 05-23-2020, 08:53 PM   #56
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Roger that, this is why I put it in CAPITAL letters that it was totally at his discretion.
Me I am use to running around with detroit lockers in my Jeep. I still jump when I hear the locker let loose on a trail or around a corner, bang! People look and then I realize oh just the locker! As far as too tight that could be said if he uses brand new extra disc but again TOTALLY UP to him! Another point is if he uses a used disc and it is troublesome then he could always remove it, but if he is stuck in a two wheel drive and off camber in a ditch in Baja that up side light weighted side of the van will still spin easier than the loaded side! Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:53 AM   #57
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Still leaning towards putting in a locker that way I can run it with Zero issues in 1wd and then know that it is fully locked when in 2wd.

In the meantime I need some interior advice from the interior masters. Here is a rough sketch of what I have in mind. Because I love cooking outside I don't plan to put a stove and sink in the van. In my Syncro we have a stove and sink and hardly ever use it. Esp when in Baja. BUT what we don't love about the RB50 or syncro design is the rock and roll bench/bed. I have two kids in carseats and also like to sometimes take a little snooze while my wife takes a turn driving. SO we are thinking of having a full-time sideways bed in the back behind the captains chairs. Part of it could pop up on a telescoping table base to create a U-shaped hangout area. So questions are:

1) Has anyone seen this done well in a E350RB?

2) Has had a movable captains chair so that once in camp, it could be moved up against the side wall of the van on a swivel base.

3) Based on the partially missing plastic trim would it be more simple to build my own wall panels and trim out around the windows or source some plastic trim and then build panels from the windows down?



Also here is a really poor photo of the interior while removing the rear heater. I have about half of the plastic trim for around the windows so missing the rear window trim. The front half of the van has trim that could potentially be salvaged and painted to match the gray color scheme. Easier to build panels? How would you build frame for the windows? Any help or advice here would be awesome!



Here is a poorly executed example of what I am thinking...

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Old 05-26-2020, 02:29 PM   #58
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I will be following as I am in need of ideas on building the window boxes. I mocked up the other wall panels and it isn’t too hard.

The issue I have with a table in the back is the low ceiling height of the upper bed. If our son is sleeping up there and we are stuck in the van for some reason I don’t think that would be a comfortable place to sit.

I keep struggling with layout ideas for 3 of us...
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Old 05-26-2020, 06:27 PM   #59
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Regarding lockers.

Iíve been watching the Ujoint Off Road YouTube channel lately. I notice a few of the vans built are the semi float with the Selectable Ox lockers installed. They put the little engage lever on the floor next to the transfer case lever. Iím kinda interested in that option for simplicity= no compressor. I havenít heard of anyoneís experience with those yet though.
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Old 05-26-2020, 11:13 PM   #60
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dkonzelmam: regarding your chair arrangement, youíll need to find a way to ensure the seats are securely attached during transport. One way is to use L-track which, when installed flush with the floor, eliminates the issue of having hardware sticking up to trip people. Your problem will be in sourcing the proper seat-base setup. You can take a look at my system and see if there are some elements you might find useful. Photos and descriptions are in my build thread.




https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...-17377-18.html


On this page, youíll find my design for a a modular (I.e. removable) set of boxes and a platform bed. This is my next project. But many folks have perfected this design, which allows for a walkway to the rear doors when the bed/table isnít in place. Iím drawing my inspiration from these photos that came, I believe, from the CCV website. Any issue about sit5ing height relative to a bed upstairs can be dealt with by lowering the height of the boxes and platform. Of course, the lower you go, the less storage/carrying ability youíll have underneath.



As far as trim, I would reach out to CCV - and perhaps SMB - to see if they have any theyíve removed when doing interior builds. Seems like a lot of folks build out their own trim and must do something with the old stuff.
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