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Old 09-12-2021, 06:30 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by marret View Post
Nice, looks great.
Thanks, lots to do, but it will get there.

Black wheels look so much better.

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Old 09-12-2021, 06:58 AM   #22
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Yep, makes it look much different/better.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:01 AM   #23
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Still trying to find everything on the van. The newer 2008+ vans are a lot different on the way they are built.

I picked up a wiring diagram book for the van.



Still not 100% sure about this, but I think I have the connectors for the power doors and keyless entry.

I also have the plug behind the dash for the upfitter switches. I need to chase down those wires.

Driver side:



Pass:



I still need to locate the keyless entry module. My door are manual doors, but I can find power doors pretty easily.
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Old 09-14-2021, 03:29 PM   #24
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Keyless entry is imbedded in the SJB (smart junction box). Some of the bare bones vans don't have the receiver/transceiver (according to all of my part number research on '09+ vans) or they may be programmed with that feature turned off.

There is a way to turn the keyless entry on/off with Forscan by manipulating the As-Built data (supposedly...). I haven't personally verified that particular feature but I've done a number of 'adjustments' to Eseries configs with that software.
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Old 09-14-2021, 06:21 PM   #25
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Keyless entry is imbedded in the SJB (smart junction box). Some of the bare bones vans don't have the receiver/transceiver (according to all of my part number research on '09+ vans) or they may be programmed with that feature turned off.

There is a way to turn the keyless entry on/off with Forscan by manipulating the As-Built data (supposedly...). I haven't personally verified that particular feature but I've done a number of 'adjustments' to Eseries configs with that software.
Thanks for the info. Is there a way to remove the speed limiter?

This is all that shows up for PCM:

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Old Yesterday, 07:31 AM   #26
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Not sure what's happening with the mini split shipping, but it's not here yet....

I've been planning out the roof rack build. It will be full length, and have 800w of solar.



I'm going to use the UJOR roof rack corners and tie downs, and black 80/20. I'm trying to plan everything out like the roof vents over the bed, black tank, and shower/bathroom. Also for the wifi / cell boosters, and Ham radio antenna.

I'm using scene lights on every corner and a awning light.

For the awning:

Since I will have a flat 12'6" roof, I'm going with the Fiamma F80s in black.





Depending on mounting height, will determine the roof rack height. I'm hoping the roof rack will hide all the vents, etc so it looks like nothing but a roof rack. I also plan on putting on a gutter mounted rack above the cab.

Also got the rig weighed:

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Old Yesterday, 08:06 AM   #27
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Great progress!

Roof rack considerations:
Railing around solar/solar panel mounting should be kept to 1/4" above plain of panels to negate any shadowing of the panels. Too many installs I see are compromised by panels mounted four or more inches below the upper rail.

Series/parallel connections- map this out to stay within the parameters of your solar controller. Try to keep the panel feed voltage towards the upper end of the controller spec to minimize v- drop through the 10ga. There will be lots of connections below the panels, consider how easy access will be made to check those connections and pass through. Any panel feed fuses should be readily accessible. I do not like the MC4 in-line barrel fuses.

Awning - Roof mounted F80s is going to be too far above the ground to function well, especially after 4x conversion/tires. It will have a severe angle. The F45s 350 @ 11.5' is going to be a more likely solution mounted to the wall somewhat above the cab roof level. In white would blend with box. Add the rain guard to seal off the gap. The F45 Eagle is also a solution as it is legless and electric but twice the price.
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Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 1der View Post
Great progress!

Roof rack considerations:
Railing around solar/solar panel mounting should be kept to 1/4" above plain of panels to negate any shadowing of the panels. Too many installs I see are compromised by panels mounted four or more inches below the upper rail.

Series/parallel connections- map this out to stay within the parameters of your solar controller. Try to keep the panel feed voltage towards the upper end of the controller spec to minimize v- drop through the 10ga. There will be lots of connections below the panels, consider how easy access will be made to check those connections and pass through. Any panel feed fuses should be readily accessible. I do not like the MC4 in-line barrel fuses.

Awning - Roof mounted F80s is going to be too far above the ground to function well, especially after 4x conversion/tires. It will have a severe angle. The F45s 350 @ 11.5' is going to be a more likely solution mounted to the wall somewhat above the cab roof level. In white would blend with box. Add the rain guard to seal off the gap. The F45 Eagle is also a solution as it is legless and electric but twice the price.

Thanks for the info!

I will order the F45s from you. I was going to get the F80s from you anyway lol. That will have to go on pretty soon, before the interior walls go up.

I've been looking at RV door options. The interior height from floor to inside roof support is exactly 70" There's another 4" above that can't be used for the door opening.

Below the flooring decking is C-channel that's sitting on the frame, that goes into another C channel long the walls. The walls are 3/4" FRP sides.

My plan is to cut out a step(s) in the floor to drop the RV door down 6-8". This will make a cheaper 70-72" RV door work instead of buying a new $700 RV door, I can get a new old stock off eBay for $200.

Next time I'm home from work (I work on a boat for a month at a time), I can put the roof rack on, close in the back wall and put the RV door and flooring in.
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