DIY floor -- what's your sandwich?

GreyDawg · 09-19-2009, 09:09 AM

(Another thread has wandered in this direction, but I thought I'd isolate the conversation in a new, topical thread since other folks, like Dave-in-Delaware who is planning a modular build similar to mine, might be interested. )

What should be used, or what have you used, for van flooring layers? Insulation, sub-floor and top?

Mike's fine home-brew has foil-backed cotton insulation, 3/8" plywood held down with screws, and marmoleum as the top.

It looks like SaabMan is using either laminate or hardwood...what insulation is underneath?

My passenger van has the standard carpet, which will be removed, exposing the sheetmetal floor. I have removed all the bench seat brackets, and will use some of the M12-1.75 threaded holes to secure my cabinets, bunk, etc.

Now I need to decide on insulation material. I can't source the cotton locally. I've considered a 1/8" neoprene sheeting, but haven't located that locally. I suppose I could use styrofoam sheeting, but I don't really want to.

Also, I haven't figured out whether I need to "fill" the troughs in the metal floor with additional insulation to make a level surface before screwing down the plywood. Is that necessary?

Ideas?

Thanks,

GreyDawg

saabman · 09-20-2009, 06:49 AM

Hi

Mine is pine struts with glass-fiber insulation between, then waterproof agglomerate wood panels (tested by watering them by the way

) then aluminium foil type condensation catcher then laminate floor (waterproof grade too - tested as well and scratch tested with car keys quite brutally...)...

What you need is though and easy to clean in my mind... I have kids who always seem to have dirty shoes

bluedog225 · 09-20-2009, 08:40 AM

I think American Van sells a foam pad that is ribbed to match the floor. I'd use this with as a base.

I don't think foil helps or hurts (except for the pocket book). I believe a radiant barrier needs space on either side to work so it is extra expense for no benefit. A sheet of polyethylene vapor barrier (as used under wood floors) would serve well...if you need anything at all.

On top, I'd go as thin and light as possible. All that OSB board in the original seems way too heavy with no added benefit.

Another thought is to put the cabinetry on the metal floor (run a bead of silicone on the bottom of the cabinets before install, let dry, for vibration dampening. Run the contoured foam on the walking areas, and cover those with ply if you need a stout surface for tile etc. The inside of the cabinets could have carpet pad and carpet only. Removable and light. Easy to clean with shop vac.

I think there are a lot of snap lock type products out there that could go straight on the foam. The flex may not be an issue for the tiny, low traffic, area we are talking about.

Tom

bluedog225 · 09-20-2009, 06:34 PM

It's great for window inserts. It creates a complete blackout and keeps it cool inside. Just cut about an inch (or less) oversized and it fits itself into the window.

I also stapled it on the walls around my water heater so the lost heat would 1)be reflected back at the heater and 2)not be absorbed by the house requiring more air conditioning.

Lots of posts under "reflectix" (sp?).

Good luck. Post pics.

Tom

GreyDawg · 09-21-2009, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluedog225

It's great for window inserts. It creates a complete blackout and keeps it cool inside. Just cut about an inch (or less) oversized and it fits itself into the window.

If you plan to cover your window inserts with fabric (fold the fabric about 1/2" -3/4" over the edge and use a 3/8"-1/2" seam allowance to stitch all around: you want the line of stitching fit snugly at the window edge, cosely tracing the window glass size, thus leaving a bit of hem for tucking), make sure your oversize cut is a generous 1" wide, as the stitching will compress the reflectix and reduce the final size of the insert (been there, done that for another van...).

The insert will tend to flex at the line of stitching (bubbles are burst there), which actually helps the insert stay in the window, as well as be sturdier and last longer.

GreyDawg

GreyDawg · 09-27-2009, 09:51 AM

PlastiDip or rubber paint?

Has anyone used brushable PlastiDip or some other rubber paint on the bare sheet-metal floor of a van?

It was suggested to me by the guys over at Napa -- paint the floor for noise deadening and some temperature control, and then put down padding / insulation followed by plywood and then floorcovering.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

GreyDawg

jage · 09-28-2009, 10:10 AM

I like plastidip but I think it etches the metal somewhat to acheive stick. Personally I'd go with Dynamat or a similar product.

bluedog225 · 09-28-2009, 12:53 PM

I don't think you are going to keep much heat in by insulating the floor. All the heat is going to be up top.

If you are trying to keep heat out, might work although I doubt the pasti-dip has much in the way of temperature insulating properties.

Consider this. Cold zinc primer for rust protection. Then plastic mesh like they use in commercial kitchens. it allows airflow and drainage. Foam, rubber, jute, hemp, anything blanket like on top of that (for noise insulation). Then 1/4 plywood (not luan). and top it off with snap lock floor strips only in the traveled areas (not inside cabinets).

GreyDawg · 09-28-2009, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluedog225

I don't think you are going to keep much heat in by insulating the floor. All the heat is going to be up top.

If you are trying to keep heat out, might work although I doubt the pasti-dip has much in the way of temperature insulating properties.

Consider this. Cold zinc primer for rust protection. Then plastic mesh like they use in commercial kitchens. it allows airflow and drainage. Foam, rubber, jute, hemp, anything blanket like on top of that (for noise insulation). Then 1/4 plywood (not luan). and top it off with snap lock floor strips only in the traveled areas (not inside cabinets).

Thanks! I'm trying to keep some road-heat out (and cold out in the winter -- my old RB50 floor got very cold in near-freezing temps) but mostly I want noise insulation, and not to do something dumb that will trap moisture/condensation and lead to a rusted floor.

This sound like a good plan. I'm trying to source hemp auto/carpet padding here in Austin. I'm not sure what plastic mesh you're referring to, or where I'd source that. I plan to use 3/8" plywood and yep, I'm leaning to floor strips (but why not in the cabinets, other than cost/weight?).

I'm slowly learning what to do. Thanks again!

**WVvan** · 10-24-2009, 10:48 PM

OK this is how I've started. Warning - I have no idea what I'm doing.
First layer.
I'm using 4x6 Rubber mats for a sound deadening layer.
Special order from Lowe's. $45 each.

Lay it out on plywood for easier cutting.

Tape together old newspapers to be same size as mat.

Create a template.

Cut the first mat to size and lay in van. Move on to the second mat with a new template.

Next do the front mat. I wussed out on trying to do all the complicated cuts needed for the front wheel wells. I'll go back and do them as smaller pieces. This way only have to cut around the dog house. Didn't bother with template. Just measured and cut a rectangle (56" x 31", I think) then laid it down and trimmed.

Fourth mat goes between the back two and the front one. 6' x 28" wide. The gap between the mats is not perfectly parallel so a little trim to fit is needed.

Use double sided carpet tape to finish the rear wheel wells.
From remnants cut (2) 42"x10.5" pieces. One for each side to be wrapped over the top.

Almost all done with this layer.

Call it a night.

I'll have to go back and finish the parts over the front wheel wells but that will have to wait. Hal The Van and I have an appointment Monday AM in Huntington IN.