E350 2wd Communication Van Thread - Page 3

rnm115 · 08-20-2018, 12:31 PM

Ha, I thought the same thing when I realized my cousin and I flew out of philly to go get the van....

rnm115 · 08-20-2018, 09:26 PM

Finally ripped out all of that heavy heavy 3/4" plywood.

Any reason I couldn't remove more of the old roof in the back? Looks like they purposefully left that chunk there for the one ceiling brace.

Also, a few better pics of all of that glorious storage space above the cab.

JWA · 08-21-2018, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnm115

Finally ripped out all of that heavy heavy 3/4" plywood.

Any reason I couldn't remove more of the old roof in the back? Looks like they purposefully left that chunk there for the one ceiling brace.

Also, a few better pics of all of that glorious storage space above the cab.

You can remove the existing rear roof material but since the factory C-Pillar hasn't been cut away you should be okay to reclaim the space. Could be its nothing more than part of the interior support--doesn't look to be structural at all.

And yes to the glorious space above the cab---I'm reclaiming a nook about 43" wide, 7" tall and 18" deep. Not huge by any means but makes more sense having it available instead of just an empty space above the front seats.

rnm115 · 08-22-2018, 09:05 AM

Anyone have any opinion on this aluminum frame? I need to cut it up pretty bad to get the new windows framed in on the inside from an aesthetic perspective, is this cage just overkill? Should I just remove it or keep it? Votes?

rnm115 · 09-06-2018, 09:26 AM

I've been in contact with 1der and discussing window options.

I'm considering two options, but I'm really torn.

I could go with the traditional t-sliders all around (3 windows total) that show good coverage for the old window holes.

But I would really like a pair of the crank out windows in the sleeping area if possible so I can leave windows open and have good cross flow of air.

The problem is, I NEED the large windows to cover the front two window holes on the driver side. So I could have an odd mis-match look going on. Also, the crank windows are more expensive.

I'm attaching some pictures and hoping for some good feedback. Thanks in Advance!

I'm still undecided about the aluminum frame as well. I need to rip it out to do some things, but the question is if it's worth putting back in? I think I want to do an interior similar to this guy with the t-slots, etc.

https://creatid.com/news/sprinter-va...-utility-cozy/

He's doing it with a sprinter, which is more box shaped, but still, I like the idea for my van!

JWA · 09-07-2018, 05:02 AM

Hoping I don't drag your build thread off-track...........but regarding removing the aluminum frame---do you mean only the part below the original upper roof rails? Along the body sides?

Is the existing visible framing steel above the roof rails and aluminum below?

IF I'm seeing what I think the portion below the roof rail could be removed easily enough---if it's never replaced that shouldn't be a structural issue at all. Naturally it was used to mount the electronic gear---it does take up a lot of space maybe better used in your conversion.

For your use removing that lower framing and building your own interior framing might be the best plan.

BTW your link to CreatID is great viewing---they're no MGMetalworks but very, very nice build they're doing!

rnm115 · 09-07-2018, 07:43 AM

JWA - No worries, I appreciate the feedback. It's been a little disappointing with the lack of other responses honestly.

Yeah, I'm leaning towards ripping the whole aluminum cage thing out. It just feels like such a waste. But it is in the way of installing and framing new windows and it's wasting both storage space and headspace when I stand in the van. I still can't stand all the way up, surprisingly, (I'm 5'10"), but I only have to duck a tiny bit without the plywood and frame there.

But between the 3/4" plywood and the aluminum frame, I bet I'm getting close to 500lbs out of the van.

I think I'll start ripping today!! woo hoo.

JWA · 09-07-2018, 10:50 AM

Forgive me for asking probably the same question three different ways but which portion of that existing cage is steel, which is aluminum?

I ask only because the portion above the roof rails is structural, that below (ending at the floor) is simply support for previous use. The top needs to stay in place for the grafted-on fiberglass piece.

rnm115 · 09-07-2018, 12:19 PM

It's all aluminum. And none of it is tied to the actual fiberglass top. It's screwed to the walls and the old van roof, but not the fiberglass anywhere that I can see.

I'm going to go work on it soon, so I may be able to snap some better pictures.

My car wrenching buddy thinks we should rip all the aluminum out and go to one of the local race frame shops and have them custom bend a couple of steel roll bars for the top.

I need to educate myself on what should actually be there...

BrianW · 09-07-2018, 08:31 PM

I think most raised tops don’t have any sort of structural bracing beyond the inherent strength of the fiberglass top. Some raised-roof vehicles used for certain applications do require roll-over protection though, I think (paratransit vans, etc.). So you probably don’t really need the framework in there for anything. If it were me I’d probably see if I could remove most of it, but still leave enough of a sort of cage for protection. Or not, if it took up too much room.