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Old 04-07-2011, 02:48 PM   #141
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

When I open our awning, after about 6"-1' I put the legs down. At first I put them down about 1-2' beyond the end of awning and crank the awning out past them and move the legs further out. I can't bring myself to run the awning out that far without the legs down for support.

Mike

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Old 04-07-2011, 05:43 PM   #142
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

Thanks Mike, I actually am putting the legs down as soon as they can touch ground which is at about 3 1/2 to 4'. ( Its in those first few feet when the groaning sound happens)they just hang before that at full extension. I'm with you - I can't bear to see those arm mechanisms support the awning without the legs.

I had a friend crank the awning out while I was inside and found the groaning to be the plywood block rubbing against the van roof. So when the awning starts to go out, the bottom of the support block wants to travel in toward the center of the van due to the flex of the fiberglass. Just a little flex but you can hear it rub. The solution I have in mind is fastening a short piece of L channel where the plywood meets the van roof. This will keep the plywood from moving (which should also keeping the fiberglass from flexing) hopefully. I'll post pics when I get to that.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:32 PM   #143
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

It looks like your awning mounts about 3-4" higher than mine. The bottom of my awning is about even with the rain gutter. I never noticed if I had to fully extend the legs fully to hit the ground. Next time I'll pay attention. Or, is your awning shorter than the one I have? I think mine is 10' long. A shorter awning would have shorter legs.

I thought the Quigleys were all 8x6.5 until very recently. You can easily check the bolt circle by measuring from the center of one lug to the center of the one opposite.

Mike
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:33 PM   #144
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

The sink cabinet is nearly finished. Doors and drawer front painted, hinges and elbow catches are installed. I need to do some touch up here and there, but its in and ready to use.






I removed the stock rear bumper today. Before taking out the last two nuts, I rested the bumper on a plank between two ladders. I was surprised how easily the nuts came off. I thought they would be seized on there.





After the bumper was off, I used a brass brush to slough off someloose paint and rust. Then I primed the areas with rustoleum.
In preparation for the Aluminess bumper, the upper door hinge pins need to be removed. Aluminess supplied thorough and clear instructions for this. Drill out the lower part of the hinge pin. This part is easy.



Now tap the pin up through. Not so easy. I tried a hammer and punch - for a long time. It never budged.



Sometimes you need a bigger hammer.



I stuck the punch in the hammer drill and the pins came out in about 2 seconds each. Before that I spent close to an hour banging on them with the hammer and punch. The upper part of the pin and hinge is splined and the fit is impressively tight.

With that out of the way I rested the new bumper on the receiver hitch and bolted it through the stock bumper slots. I didn't put the top support straps on yet, you can see one ready to be installed in this photo. I need to bend the support strap to offset to the right elevation. Maybe tomorrow.

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Old 04-10-2011, 08:39 AM   #145
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

[edit]



Notice the crossbar on the rear door. That was a bad idea that I had a couple of months back before I ordered the aluminess bumper. I thought I could mount the thule racks to the rear door and carry the bikes, skis, snowboards, etc on the back vertically. The upper bar worked fine. The lower bar wouldn't work due to the shape of the van. When the door opens, the butt end of the cross bar will hit the taillight or van body. You would have to shorten the bar so much and still install a lanyard to stop the door from opening beyond 90 degrees. I wish I had checked that before I installed the upper bar . I'll have to do a little patching and painting where the bolts went through the door. I plan to mount the same bars to the top of the deluxe box.


Anyone have a suggestion for an led plate light for the bumper?
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:45 AM   #146
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

These look pretty good. low profile and black.

http://www.ridegear.com/detail.cfm?Cate ... tent=47007
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Old 04-20-2011, 05:02 PM   #147
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

Some lights to look @

http://www.amazon.com/KC-Hilites-101...340013&sr=1-14

http://www.amazon.com/Backup-Lights-...3340013&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/KC-Hilites-101...3340013&sr=1-6

http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Backup...340158&sr=1-69

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...Frt.htm#photos

Wow, Your cabs came out GREAT!!!!!!

I like the cut outs for the catches

Great build!

Bull10X
I am eagerly awaiting more
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Old 04-24-2011, 11:59 AM   #148
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

more lights
http://cgi.ebay.com/High-Power-10W-F...item3367264a1f

http://cgi.ebay.com/10Watt-LED-Flood...item35b171e04e
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:32 PM   #149
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

I worked on the plumbing last night.





Its all ready to use except the grey water tank may need a vent. Do you guys have vented grey water tanks? If not, does the drain work well, or does it burp air up through when draining the sink?
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:40 PM   #150
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Re: ELVIS the BELUGA WHALE

Thanks Bull10x for the lighting links. I may try some of those backup lights from amazon. I was toying with using 2 of the maxxima mwl-04 (like I put on the side for a work light) for backup lights , but they may be way too much light that close to the ground. Plus they are expensive!
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