Fiberine 24" Fiberglass high top install

[bprh]

I am reaching out to see if any high top owners have any tips on a Fiberine 24" bubble top DIY install.

From my research, The tops are secured with silicone or sikaflex between the reverse flange and van roof, and #12 zinc plated screws through OSB plywood strips on top of the reverse flange. It is also bolted through the 3 remaining roof cross members with 3/8" nuts and bolts.

I am also looking for general tips and any insight on installing a Maxxair fan and resources for leak fee side windows and question if sliding marine windows used on fiberglass tops?

[doublevan2]

Don't know a whole lot about any of this type of "conversion" - but would think that sliding windows would/could introduce unwanted water/rain into interior of van - versus the the style of windows that open outward --

[dhally]

Our experience is shorter windows leak less than longer ones

[clicker44]

I did a DIY Fiberine 24" bubble top install last summer, although mine was swapping from a penthouse top to a high top so the van top was mostly already cut off.

Here are a few things I learned from my project:

- Getting the top from Fiberine for a DIY install is hard. They make you jump through a lot of hoops to do it.

- Correct on the installation process. Silkaflex will work fine. Gonzo (Fiberine owner) recommended the GE Silcione #2 from Home Depot so thats what I used. Make sure the area where the reverse flange will meet the remaining van top is clean and grease free and just lather a ton on there.

- Using a forklift will make your life much easier when it comes to the final install/fit.

- Each van is different....my van's drip rail was bent from the old junk SMB awning brackets (I did not know this before installing the high top because the pop top sat differently on the van. I have a slight gap in places between the drip rail and the high top from the bent drip rail. If I could do it over again I would have installed a gasket on the bottom of the top to accommodate the gap.

- Gonzo recommended laying 4x4's across the top of the van and setting the top on the 4x4's while you do your silicone. Then gently remove the 4x4's one at a time and ease the top down. You will have about an hour to make any adjustments to how the top sits.

- Make sure you give enough space on the front to be able to replace your windshield if you ever need to.

- Correct w/ the plywood strips and bolts to finish the install.

- I was in a major time crunch so was unable to do windows, maxfan, and roof rack before installing the top. Wish I did...but unless you know exactly how you plan on finishing the interior of your van top I would wait....after a few months I kind of like no windows so there is no chance of leak and more room for cabinets.

- For the maxfan Gonzo uses silicone on the exterior of the top to build a "platform" that allows the fan to sit level. The fan has to be perfectly level to work.

- If you are going to get a roof rack....that would be the best thing to install before installing the top. I am going to go with the U-Joint style rack (8020 style aluminum) but the brackets need to be custom made to compensate for the bubble top.

- I had my top painted to match the van before I installed it. It came out great.

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If I could do it over again....I would have taken more time to install the roof rack and solar and maxfan all while the top was on the ground.

Good luck with your project!

[haywoodphotomaccom]

I had Fiberine install my 24" top and the top and both windows leaked. Pulled everything apart and resealed it all.....

[CGgonzo12]

When we did our 30" Super Camper we elected to have Fiberine do the install. I wanted to ensure it was done by a professional who knows what they are doing. So far, we have had zero leaks and have two sliding windows on either side. I also had them install our MaxAir Fan and it's been great. No issues whatsoever.

When it comes to what you are describing when they mount it to the van, that seems spot on, I remember seeing all of that on mine before I started to build it out.

[Nrobert10]

I’ve installed multiple high tops on vans some with out without reverse flange. Your install procedures are correct.

Rob N

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by clicker44

If I could do it over again....I would have taken more time to install the roof rack and solar and maxfan all while the top was on the ground.

Good luck with your project!

That certainly rings true to me. I have a Fiberine 16" and had to swap out a Maxair fan from the manual one to the one with remote control and while the actual work wasn't complicated at all, doing it on the slightly curved and slippery ish Fiberine 9 feet off the ground made it a bit difficult and nerve racking. A year or so later I now want to replace the fan with a rooftop A/C unit.

[clicker44]

Originally Posted by Steve Hunt

That certainly rings true to me. I have a Fiberine 16" and had to swap out a Maxair fan from the manual one to the one with remote control and while the actual work wasn't complicated at all, doing it on the slightly curved and slippery ish Fiberine 9 feet off the ground made it a bit difficult and nerve racking. A year or so later I now want to replace the fan with a rooftop A/C unit.

@steve_hunt -- Haha yes! My MaxFan is still sitting in a box in my garage and I already want to swap it for an AC. Did you decide on your unit? I have been extremely intrigued by this -- https://www.dometic.com/en-us/profes...tx-2000-262673.

[Steve Hunt]

Originally Posted by clicker44

@steve_hunt -- Haha yes! My MaxFan is still sitting in a box in my garage and I already want to swap it for an AC. Did you decide on your unit? I have been extremely intrigued by this -- https://www.dometic.com/en-us/profes...tx-2000-262673.

Yes, that unit caught my eye although I think that is the one that takes a larger cutout than the near universal 14"x14" so that has me paused right now seeing what else is out there. I wouldn't mind not having to enlarge the existing cutout.