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Old 05-11-2015, 12:27 PM   #1
evy
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Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Hi everyone.

I red a couple of threads about the condensation issue with the Ford E250s.

Sure enough after I bought my 2010 extended Ford E250 I lifted the mat and condensation was everywhere.

I work in architecture and I know a little about the "thermal bridge" effect, the cold outside air cools the metal sheeting and the moisture in the inside air condenses on it, kinda like a cold glass of water on a hot day.

I am currently applying a rubber/elastomeric liquid membrane on the floor of the van.
I'm up to my second coat now and I have not even used a quarter of the 5 gallons, so when I'm done I will have a thick rubber membrane underneath the OEM mat, I think it will break that thermal bridge and if any water or moisture ends up on the floor it will be waterproof anyways. Also I think it will help with sound deadening.

Here are my projected floor components from top to bottom :
-finished vinyl flooring (top)
-5/8" or 3/4" plywood
-1" rigid insulation
-OEM mat
-Rubber membrane
-Van's steel floor (bottom)

Underneath the driver's feet is where I found the most water, the felt under the OEM math was soaked.

I also red it can be some sort of infiltration? from the windshield? or the doghouse?

FYI : 142$ (Canadian) for the 5 gallon, I applied it with a 3" brush, yogurt like texture.









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Old 05-11-2015, 10:47 PM   #2
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

EVY what are you plan to do with all the hollows the body have in the structure. I think water will cause there damage/rust first.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:49 AM   #3
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Quote:
Originally Posted by schluchtenflitzer
EVY what are you plan to do with all the hollows the body have in the structure. I think water will cause there damage/rust first.
I am re-using the OEM mat, I don't know about yours but mine is formed perfectly to fill all the voids in the floor.
But like I said I don't think there will be anymore condensation. By any bad luck if water gets there the rubber membrane will prevent rust, this thing really bonds to the metal.

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Old 05-12-2015, 06:05 AM   #4
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Based upon my own personal hands on experience with the OEM mat and its ravages of humidity saturation on van floors......

You're on the right track with the coating. I used POR-15 silver because surface rust on my "new" 2003 was sufficient to warrant that treatment. I also treated the front floor boards as they too were rusted although a bit more than the rear area. POR-15's formulation gives me supreme confidence existing rust will be mitigated or stopped dead, the resulting coating adhering to the sheet metal more tenaciously than the original paint finish.

In the rear area I cut sheets of AB plywood, 3/4" thick. This was laid directly on the floor, naturally it rested on top of the ribs in the rear floor. No screws used that penetrated the sheet metal at all, instead I ran the plywood under the lowest flange of the sidewalls located just above the floor. Strips of poplar or similar were fitted between the plywood sheet and the flange, screws used only to secure the strips to the flange. This arrangement somewhat "wedges" the plywood to the van floor---it can't move.

Joints in the plywood were addressed by cutting the pieces so a seam would exist directly above the space formed by the floor sheet metal ribs. Because that space was 1/2" in depth plywood strips 1" to 1 1/4" wide were fitted into the space, wood screws countersunk through the plywood floor into the 1/2" strips as a way to hold the seam together. (Had I been more motivated I'd have cut 1 1/2" lap joints in the plywood floor plus used the 1/2" plywood strips underneath the seam----this would been a very strong joint/seam without need to screw into the floor metal.

This method of leaving air channels under the floor is best. There is no need for sound deadening material or anything else under the plywood of the van floor. Once carpet or other floor covering is in place layer upon layer of FatMat etc or insulation is time and money wasted.

Keep in mind Ohio weather covers all four seasons with frequent dew and condensation which absolutely kills a bare uninsulated van with the OEM padded floor mat. Other climates might not be prone to issue but the flooring system I describe is just as effective regardless.

Anyway hope to see more of your progress!

PS: Have to edit this now---new reply from Evy! As long as the OEM padded mat never again comes in direct contact with the van's sheet metal you're good---its a rather durable and well-made mat overall. The coating material you're using should work to that end.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:15 AM   #5
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA
Based upon my own personal hands on experience with the OEM mat and its ravages of humidity saturation on van floors......

You're on the right track with the coating. I used POR-15 silver because surface rust on my "new" 2003 was sufficient to warrant that treatment. I also treated the front floor boards as they too were rusted although a bit more than the rear area. POR-15's formulation gives me supreme confidence existing rust will be mitigated or stopped dead, the resulting coating adhering to the sheet metal more tenaciously than the original paint finish.

In the rear area I cut sheets of AB plywood, 3/4" thick. This was laid directly on the floor, naturally it rested on top of the ribs in the rear floor. No screws used that penetrated the sheet metal at all, instead I ran the plywood under the lowest flange of the sidewalls located just above the floor. Strips of poplar or similar were fitted between the plywood sheet and the flange, screws used only to secure the strips to the flange. This arrangement somewhat "wedges" the plywood to the van floor---it can't move.

Joints in the plywood were addressed by cutting the pieces so a seam would exist directly above the space formed by the floor sheet metal ribs. Because that space was 1/2" in depth plywood strips 1" to 1 1/4" wide were fitted into the space, wood screws countersunk through the plywood floor into the 1/2" strips as a way to hold the seam together. (Had I been more motivated I'd have cut 1 1/2" lap joints in the plywood floor plus used the 1/2" plywood strips underneath the seam----this would been a very strong joint/seam without need to screw into the floor metal.

This method of leaving air channels under the floor is best. There is no need for sound deadening material or anything else under the plywood of the van floor. Once carpet or other floor covering is in place layer upon layer of FatMat etc or insulation is time and money wasted.

Keep in mind Ohio weather covers all four seasons with frequent dew and condensation which absolutely kills a bare uninsulated van with the OEM padded floor mat. Other climates might not be prone to issue but the flooring system I describe is just as effective regardless.

Anyway hope to see more of your progress!

PS: Have to edit this now---new reply from Evy! As long as the OEM padded mat never again comes in direct contact with the van's sheet metal you're good---its a rather durable and well-made mat overall. The coating material you're using should work to that end.
Hi

Do you have any pictures?

How did you confirm that moisture wasn't adding up?

do you have a heater in your van?
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:27 AM   #6
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Every van I've seen with a wet driver's floorboard was caused by a windshield leak.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:30 AM   #7
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Re: Floor components vs Condensation issue (2010 Ford E250)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Scotty
Every van I've seen with a wet driver's floorboard was caused by a windshield leak.
Ho really?

What do I have to look for? Where's the leak normally found? And how do I fix it?

Thanks!
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