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Old 04-22-2010, 09:50 PM   #151
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Re: Hal The Van

Sofa-bed continued:

A quick note. These write ups aren't in strict chronological order. It's easier for me to describe the steps if I jump around a little bit.
The previously installed metal angle both supported the bottom of the Seat Platform and helped guide the top of the square tube. Now add the angle to guide the bottom of the tube.


The square tube is 1-1/4" tall and the angles are 1-1/2" tall. You can see there is some overlap when using two angles as guides.


Need to trim a little off the bottom edge of the first angle to remove that overlap.


Since the Seat Platform is 21" wide and 12" of that will be extended out, I'll make the second angle 9" long to correspond with the amount of seat left over the Center Support. The bottom trim needs to be the same length as the second angle.


A funny thing happened on the way to finish that 9" cut. I'm using my trusty old saber saw and it starts to cut slower and slower. Then the smoke detector in the basement goes off. I never did see any actual smoke come out of it but by the end of the cut it's done sabered it's last saw. Had it a couple decades or more. Say good-bye to my old friend.


Say Hello to my new friend.


OOOOOH - Lasers!


These are how the two angles will fit together.


Test fit with the square tube.


Cut the square tube to a 30" length and smooth out the cut end.


Bolt the top angle onto the Center Support.


I've added some more bolts to the front part of the top angle (upside down in this photo). These are to help counteract the forces caused by the extended square tube. I've positioned these new bolts so the heads are below the tube perforations as it slides. This is just like in the previous post where the first bolts which were placed above the perforations.


Using the square tube to maintain proper alignment position the bottom angle.


Clamp the angle into place until the first few bolts are added.


Use the caliper as previously described to help mark the positions for the bolt holes. Use a 16D nail to dimple the metal before you drill to help the bit stay centered.




With everything bolted into place slide the square tube back and forth to see how it moves. Without any lubrication at all it moves surprisingly smooth. And no Ka-chunk Ka-chunk.


And very importantly the side of the square tube is clear of the edge from the angles. That is needed for the next steps.


continued -

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Old 04-23-2010, 11:03 PM   #152
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Re: Hal The Van

Sofa-bed continued:

Next to add is another 1-1/2" angle. The Seat Platform will be bolted to the horizontal part of the angle. The square tube will drive this metal angle back and forth.


Cut the angle so it's length is the same as the Seat Platform width, 21".


As I'm working on the Center Support it's lying on the workbench so what will be UP on the final install is on the left here. In this picture I'm calling the new angle "Seat Angle". I'm aligning the seat angle so it's just a little bit to the left (above) of the top angle. As the Seat Platform is moved back and forth it will drag across the top angle which is stationary. By raising the seat angle in relation to the top angle it should help reduce that drag.


Use the caliper to keep that alignment constant along the length of the seat angle and the square tube. Clamp the angle and tube together.


Now it gets interesting. I have to bolt the seat angle to the square tube. Problem is the bolts can't go all the way through the tube. Otherwise as the tube slides their heads would engage the bolts that hold the top angle in place. To get around this problem I'll have to work the bolts from within the center of the square tube. This take a little prep work.

I'll be using 1/4" bolts which have a 7/16" size heads. A 7/16" socket is interchangeable with a 11mm metric socket. So find some metric sockets I'm not too worried about. Happen to have a set right here.


The 11mm socket is too large as is. Need to make it smaller. Use the bench grinder.


Note: If you're planning on having an MRI anytime soon and doing any grinding, wear full face protection, not just safety glasses. Don't ask me how I know.

By the time I'm done grinding it will just be thick enough to hold a nut.


Here's the difference between the ground down 11mm and the 10mm and 12mm sockets.


Drill the first of the five holes I'm going to need through the new angle. Line the hole up with one of the tube's perforations.


To install a bolt through the newly drilled hole I'm going to need a few tools. First up a flexible grabber.


Grab a 1/2" long bolt with the business end of the tool.


Slide the bolt through the center of the square tube.


Use the grabber to work the bolt through the drilled hole.




Gently start the nut onto the bolt. If you tighten the nut the grabber won't let go.


Extract the grabber tool. Next up a flexible tool with a magnetic holder at the end.


The socket is too big for the grabber to hold so I'm using the magnetic tool.


Use the magnetic tool to slide the socket into the tube. Notice that even with the grinding the socket doesn't have a lot a clearance. It still has to fit over the head of the bolt inside the tube. Tight fit.


Line up the socket with the tube hole above the bolt head.


You need a socket extension to maneuver the socket inside the tube. Move the socket around until it's on the bolt head.


Then use the socket and and a wrench to tighten the bolt and nut.


Remove the magnetic holder with the socket and drill the hole for the next bolt. Once a bolt has been inserted into the square tube you can't easily work past it. So you have to work from the center of the tube outward.

Add a total of five bolts.


continued -
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Old 04-24-2010, 08:55 AM   #153
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
Sofa-bed continued:

Use the caliper as previously described to help mark the positions for the bolt holes. Use a 16D nail to dimple the metal before you drill to help the bit stay centered.




continued -
With all of your great craftmanship and tools that you have, you have to use a nail for a center punch? Harbor Freight has a nice spring punch for a couple of bucks.
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Old 04-24-2010, 11:22 AM   #154
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Re: Hal The Van

The nail did the job quite well but thanks for the suggestion. I'll add a spring punch to my next Harbor Freight order. Wouldn't you know it but I just sent off an order to them earlier this week.
Quote:
With all of your great craftmanship
Thanks for the compliment but are you sure you've been reading MY posts? I'd sure never use those words to describe what I do. Rank amateur are the words to come to my mind. Especially since just before my lunch break today I managed to glue two blocks to the wrong side of the Seat Platform. Luckily Bob was there to catch my mistake before the glue set. I will have to cover it in a future posting.
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Old 04-24-2010, 10:55 PM   #155
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Re: Hal The Van

Sofa-bed continued:

I need a way to drive the square tube and it's newly attached metal angle back and forth which will also move the Seat Platform when done.


I'm going to use a Firgelli Automations 12" Stroke 150lb Force Linear Actuator. $119.99.






Link to product's web page

I have no particular knowledge about this company or it's products. Just did a Google search and found them. Also searched out some (hopefully) independent reviews that liked their actuators.

I choose this model since I want the Seat Platform to move 12" and this actuator has a "stroke" of 12". This isn't the first actuator I bought for the sofa-bed. The one in the original plan had a stroke of 18" but that didn't work out so I went with this one. I'm planning to now use the 18" on a TV lift.


These actuators use just two wires. Apply power one way and the actuator will run out to max length then stop on it's own. Reverse the polarity on the wires and piston runs in until it stops. You don't have to kill the power. The actuator has it's own internal limits switches. The piston can't be moved manually. It will only move electrically. Max power draw is only 4 amps.

Since I'll be testing the actuator a fair amount I attached a pair of round male quick disconnects to the wires along with some shrink tube.


I'll provide power to the actuator using a single 6 volt battery. Even though it's rated at 12 volt I found it runs just fine with 6 volts. That is it runs OK without any load on the actuator to speak of. Attach a pair of round female disconnects to the battery.


Power it up and marvel as you drive it in and out several times.




Drill a hole at the front edge of the Center Support to create an attachment point for the mounting hole on the motor end of the actuator.


Use a 1/4" bolt to anchor the mounting point.


Now stare at the mounting hole on the end of the piston and ponder out how I'm going to attach the piston to the square tube. Then ponder some more.


continued -
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:54 AM   #156
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Re: Hal The Van

are you a mechanical engineer?? ...cus theres way too many tools in this build for me!!

but I have one question...

after all the invention of tools and thinking outside the box...did you locktite the nuts on the rail?

cus the aluminum and steel contract and expand at diffrent rates and WILL loosen the nut over time..

keep goin!! I gotta see this finnished...
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Old 04-25-2010, 12:17 PM   #157
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
are you a mechanical engineer??
My day job is Unix sys admin.
I have this Dilbert cartoon taped on the outside of the door to my office:

I'm typing this on a Linux based system. (Fedora 11)

I've collected most of the tools a little at a time over the years since I like to tinker.
Here's another of my projects. A Stanley Toolbox computer.

The cat in the pics is Gort. Unfortunately he is no longer with me.

Quote:
did you locktite the nuts on the rail?
Good idea. Just about everything on this project has been disassembled/re-assembled at least a couple times so I haven't locked down anything yet. I'll be sure to use the locktite once I know I've got the final design. Not there yet but getting closer.

Quote:
I gotta see this finished..
That makes two of us.
Thanks,
Dave
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:47 PM   #158
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
I'm typing this on a Linux based system. (Fedora 11)
I'm on OpenSuSe 11.2 long live linux
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Old 04-25-2010, 07:44 PM   #159
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Re: Hal The Van

Hey Saabman,
Linux RULES!!!

Pic from tonight.
Bob and I checking on sofa-bed progress.


Getting there.
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Old 04-27-2010, 12:05 PM   #160
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Re: Hal The Van

Sofa-bed continued:

Need to make a bracket for the piston end of the 12" actuator.


This will join the actuator and the square tube. I want it long enough so it will use two bolts to attach to the tube. If the bracket is long enough to cover two of the perforations on the tube then part of the bracket will have to fit between the square tube and the part of the actuator that fits around the piston. For want of a better term I'll call the part of the actuator that fits around the piston the "drive column".

Use two pieces of 2" aluminum angle. Here is the bracket pieces pushed up against the black plastic collar at the top of the drive column.


Measure the amount the bracket overhangs the tube. This measurement corresponds with the width of the part of the bracket that must fit between the square tube and the drive column.


To make room for the bracket to fit between the square tube and the drive column, raise the piston up as high as possible while keeping the mounting hole within the bracket.


Measure the gap between the tube and the drive column.


One other consideration is this holding pin. It will go through the bracket, into the piston mounting hole and out the other side of the bracket.


There must be enough of a gap between the inner side of the bracket and the Center Support so this spring ball will exit the inner side of the bracket


Draw up a quick design on the closest thing to write on (the side of the Center Support).


Cut out the pieces.


And do a test fit.


Take one more measurement.


Update the drawing.


Drill out the pin holes.


Fit the bracket together.




Use a piece of square tube as a guide to mark on one bracket piece the location of the two holes and then drill out.




Use the first piece as a guide to mark both holes in the second piece of the bracket.


Drill out both holes in the second bracket.
MISTAKE
I should have known there was no way I was going to drill those second set of holes in the EXACT same place just by using the marks. It only has to be off by .01" and the bolt won't fit.


The SMART way would have been to drill the first hole then bolt the two bracket pieces together and drill the second hole using the first piece as a guide.

Which is what I did to fix it.

Need to bolt the bracket to the square tube. Because of the clearance issue I'm putting the bolt head between the bracket pieces and the nut inside the tube.


To use the socket inside the square tube the bolt can't be too long. I found a 1/2" bolt (top bolt) too short and the 3/4" bolt (bottom bolt) too long. So by hacksawing off three threads from the end of a 3/4" bolt I have the perfect length.


Use the modified socket with the magnetic tool to get the nut on the end of the bolt inside the square tube.


One small problem. The nut keeps wanting to jump out due to the magnetic attraction.


Hold the nut down till it gets started inside the tube and it will stay in place.


Use the same method for tightening bracket that was used for the Seat Platform angle.


Position the square tube in the guideway and use the pin to connect the piston to the bracket and check alignments.


Attach the power to the actuator and run the tube in and out several times. Laugh like a mad scientist.




Not done yet.
Even with all my careful measurements I made a mistake somewhere. When the actuator is full extended (sofa position) the end of the square tube should be even with the front of the Center Support. As you can see here it's off by a little more than a 1/8" of an inch.


To fix this problem I reposition the base of the actuator until the square tube is flush with the edge of the Center Support. Drill a new hole and bolt the actuator base to this new spot.


continued -
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