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Old 01-13-2010, 10:50 AM   #31
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
I'll lend you the cat but be warned. At 22 pounds his word is LAW!
Hmm. Well, maybe my first impulse to plan a summer 2010 roadtrip to WV to retrofit insulation under feline supervision isn't so good....

Wouldn't want to get the ol' Dawg vs cat thing goin'....
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:13 PM   #32
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Re: Hal The Van

Continued work on the insulation.
Since the rigid foam didn't work on the cockpit floor I used the Reflectix/EZ Cool.
Not sure which of them is the best for being on the floor. You can see the main difference between Reflectix and EZ Cool here. They both consist of what looks like bubble wrap with aluminium foil on both sides. The EZ Cool (top in photo) has smaller air bubbles than Reflectix which why it molds better.




No sure which will with stand up to foot traffic better but I went with the EZ Cool. Maybe pull it up in a year and see what kind of shape it's in.
Having to work without the engine cowling (AKA doghouse) made for a very nippy work environment even with the kerosene heater running.


Finished look.


I hadn't originally planned on insulating the step wells but all the cold air emanating from them couldn't be ignored.
Before:


After:


Same with the cargo step.






Had to buy another roll of Reflectix (2' x 25' - $28.93 - Lowe's) to finish the job.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:07 PM   #33
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Re: Hal The Van

First let me say you’re doing an excellent job on your van. Everything you’ve done looks perfect.

Great idea on the step wells. I also noticed that’s where a lot of cold air is at and was thinking on how to insulate.

Did you feel a noticeable difference when you did them?

Randy
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:38 PM   #34
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Re: Hal The Van

Thanks. Yes I can sure feel a difference.
When you look at the depth and width of the step well it represents a large chunk of metal. I hadn't really thought about the analogy before but once I started insulating the van in this cold weather I'm reminded of working with electronic circuits or computers. With those you use a heat sink to radiate away the excess heat. In the van it feels like ever piece of uninsulated metal, that's exposed to the outside air, is a highly efficient cold sink that radiates in the cold.
While the Reflectix itself doesn't have a high R value It feels like it breaks the cold sink effect.

PS. Yes I know cold doesn't actually "radiate" but it sure feels that way.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:13 PM   #35
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Re: Hal The Van

Letters, I get letters.
A was asked the amount of Reflectix needed to insulate the walls and floor of my van.
NOT including the doors, I'd need APPROXIMATELY 210 square feet.
Of course there are variations in van configurations and insulating methods so that's just an approximation.
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:16 AM   #36
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
No sure which will with stand up to foot traffic better but I went with the EZ Cool. Maybe pull it up in a year and see what kind of shape it's in.
Not sure how the EZ cool will hold up, but it can't be worse than the reflectix- I have loose reflectix under my carpet and it's all crushed and popped from foot traffic. The EZ cool looks like it might have some volume even after crushing, whereas the reflectix becomes tinfoil mashed with plastic.

Looks great BTW. I think you should shoot some space-capsule movie inside before finishing...
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Old 01-21-2010, 10:28 AM   #37
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
I think you should shoot some space-capsule movie inside before finishing...
I laughed out loud when I read that then thought it's not a bad idea. Couldn't be worse than some of the dreck I've seen on the Sci Fi channel.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:48 PM   #38
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Re: Hal The Van

Next up. Some more insulation.
I'd considered using something like furring strips and pink fiberglass but the Ford van's walls are too irregular and that method won't work everywhere. Next up is extruded foam insulation. I couldn't attach the foam directly to the walls so instead I'll attach it to what will be the interior panels.
Supplies:
Lowes:
Hardboard 3/16”x4'x8' - $11.21 each
Extruded Insulation 1/2” x 4' x 8' – $10.48
Woodweld Contact cement - quart - $13.98

The wall panels are a type of pressed fiberboard. They are not as strong as plywood but since I'm not using them in a structural capacity I'll save on weight. They will be covered in fabric when done.


I decide to start on the passenger side, aft of the cargo doors. One reason I'm working from here is because I'm not sure how I'll frame the window behind the driver. As I work my way around the van hopefully it will come to me.


First Mistake. Instead of a template I thought I could use a marker and reach behind the panel and draw out the where it needed cut. It worked but just barely.


Mistake Two
Double sided tape isn't strong enough to hold the foam to the panel once you start to flex it.


Mistake Three
Don't use 3/4" extruded foam with the panels. The two of them combined makes the panels so springy you'll have to use your feet to bend them into place.
(Picture taken while lying on my back trying to get the panel to curve against the wall.)


I'll attach the foam to the panels using contact cement.


Before attaching the foam remove the plastic film that covers the side you will be gluing.


Apply cement liberally.


Position foam on the board then place everything handy on top of the foam to weigh it down while the cement cures. I let it set overnight


By this time in the build I have a fair collection of foam bits left over.


Combing several of the smaller pieces to cover a larger panel is a good way to use them up.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:40 AM   #39
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Re: Hal The Van

How do they flex with the panels glued on?
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:47 PM   #40
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Re: Hal The Van

With the 1/2" foam glued to the fiberboard it's really not much stiffer that the fiberboard by itself.
I've got one panel that's 50" high and the center is bowed by 3".
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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