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Old 01-23-2010, 02:47 PM   #41
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Re: Hal The Van

We interrupt this thread for a quick message.
I post this just in case anyone thought the only pictures I ever take is of my work on the van.
Please excuse me while I crow a little.
While working on the van today the letter carrier brought me the following CD.


The CD cover photo is one of mine. My first paid work. I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl.
You can see the original photo here.

Here's a photo comparison I made that shows what the same spot looked like around a 100 years ago. Click to enlarge.


Biking, hiking and taking pictures are my main plans for when the van conversion is finished.

We now return to our camper van build, already in progress.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:33 PM   #42
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Re: Hal The Van

Wow, you've been taking pictures for a long time!

Seriously though, congrats on the pic being used.


Herb
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:13 PM   #43
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Wow, you've been taking pictures for a long time!


You've figured out my secret. This is really "The Van Conversion Project Of Dorian Gray". The only problem is if I'm pulled over by the police.
"Hey, This drivers license photo doesn't look like you!"
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:22 PM   #44
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Re: Hal The Van

congrats on the photo!

nothing like getting paid for that. I shoot, as well, and basically live to drive around shooting photos and soaking my butt in hot springs.

enjoying your build. once I get the electrical stuff done in mine, I'm starting on the insulation, paneling and floor.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:39 PM   #45
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Re: Hal The Van

A short posting about templates.

Whenever I need to cut anything to fit I make a template. Others may be able to just eyeball it and cut but I'm not one of them. If it's something simple for the floor I usually just tape together newspapers so they are the same size as whatever I'll be cutting.


Then just lay down the newspaper template and cut it to fit.


Then use the template to transfer your cuts or marks to the whatever you'll be installing. Then cut the part to fit.


While the newspaper template works for flat level surfaces it's not to good for vertical surfaces since it won't hold it's shape. I've tried using cardboard, never in short supply if you have a recycling center nearby, but it's hard to for me make a smooth cut.
I've think I've found the perfect template material.
Posterboard.
Office Depot - $4.99 - 10 sheets


It hold it's shape on the vertical and if you're marking off a corner it will fit in it nicely.
Then mark off the edge with a good lumber pencil. It will both mark and score the posterboard.


Another advantage of the posterboard is that you can tape it directly to whatever you're cutting. Then instead of transferring any marks just cut through the posterboard.


I usually find ways to re-use the same piece of posterboard several times as it gets smaller and smaller.

This message has been brought to you by your friends at the Posterboard Council

Posterboard. It's plain, white and boring. Buy some today!
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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Old 01-25-2010, 08:01 AM   #46
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Re: Hal The Van

Again, your thread is really helping me. The posterboard tip is really appreciated.

I am currently thinking - after reading a billion posts on the web about van insulation - of going another route. This could change tomorrow.

I was thinking of painting all the inner surfaces with a thermal ceramic coating to cut down on noise and provide some insulation. Then, I was going to do a layer of foil-backed jute. Then I was going to do a thin plywood panel, screwed in so I could get underneath to critical points when I need to.

Anyway, we shall see. I'm still researching. The reflectix looks appealingly easy to lay in there, though.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:17 AM   #47
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Re: Hal The Van

I'd think the foil backed jute might be good for the floor but kind of heavy for mounting on the walls. From what I read about the thermal ceramic coating it might be $$$.

Then again this is the beauty of DIY. Someone once asked me about the "right" way to do something. For a project like this I don't think there is one single right way. There can sure be a bunch of wrong ways but as long as you like the outcome then you've found the "right" way.
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:58 PM   #48
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Re: Hal The Van

Wow, I hadn't even thought about the weight of the jute vs. the reflextix.

As for the paint, I think three gallons at 60 bucks per is more than enough. I'm willing to put out $180 on that, plus another few hundred for the jute. I'll try to save money on the paneling.
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Old 01-25-2010, 04:43 PM   #49
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
I think three gallons at 60 bucks per is more than enough.
Yeah that's not too much $. I had been looking at something way more expensive.
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Old 01-27-2010, 01:18 PM   #50
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Re: Hal The Van

I'd mentioned in a earlier thread about painting (when the weather was nicer).
Here are the steps I used to repaint. I'm new at this and these instructions are what worked for me. Your mileage my vary.

If there was any sign of rust use the wire brush on the grinder to remove the rust and any paint near it.


Use rust converter on the rust.

If there were no signs of rust use 320-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to prepare paint. Use the sandpaper with a bucket of water. Keep wetting it frequently. Go over the whole area you're going to paint. This will be messy. If it's not messy you're not using enough water.

Clean up your mess and get a clean bucket of water and wipe down the sanded area.

Mask off the area you're going to paint. This is the most tedious of the jobs but if you don't take the time to do it right you'll regret it later. The more paper covering the better.

Next get a rag and use acetone to wipe down the area you'll be painting.

Time for the respirator and goggles. I'll skip the safety lecture.

Primer. I used rattle spray can primer. NAPA carried the type of primer for air guns but it came in a larger quantity than I needed. Spray cans worked fine. Just need a lot of them. I tend to use short light strokes and to go over the area more than once. Probably equal to a coat and a half.

After priming use the 1000 grit sandpaper dry and VERY LIGHTLY go over the area. One thing I noticed. On the inside of the doors the primed layer seemed extra rough at the lower corners of the windows. Extra sanding was required. This happened with every door. Must be something about the primer collecting in the corner.


Take a dry soft rag and make sure there's no loose sanding dust left laying on the surface.

Now you're ready to paint. Run a little acetone through the spray gun to make sure it's OK. Check the air pressure AT THE GUN. Your gun instructions should tell you what PSI is recommended
Mix the paint and reducer. I was advised to use 4:1 but was never super accurate with the mix ratios and the end results were always the same.



Put paint in the gun and do some test sprays. A big sheet of cardboard is real handy for this. You'll need to dial in the gun at this point. This step was always the hardest for me. There are three adjustment knobs on the gun I bought and if you adjusted one it seems to effect the other two. It seems like a balancing act and I never felt like I had it perfect, just good enough.

I set the gun for a light spray. Remember that as you move the gun to keep it parallel to the surface you're painting. Don't swing your arm back in forth in an arc. I would do short strokes until I thought I'd given good coverage to the whole area once. Put down the gun and take a short break. In just a few minutes the paint would be dry. I'd then do another coat.

After finishing the second coat pour out any paint not used. Be sure to keep the mixed and unmixed paint separate.

NOTE: I'm working in the garage with the doors open and there are no ignition sources or open flames anywhere nearby.

Wipe out the inside of the gun's paint reservoir with paper towels. If you use cloth rags be careful of clogging the gun with a stray thread. Next use acetone and paper towels to wipe out the reservoir. You want to get it as clean as you can. I also wipe off the outside of the gun.

The gun instructions advise disassembling it at this point and cleaning the internal bits separate. I'm always worried about losing one of the small bits so instead I clean the inside by running acetone through it. Just pour a little acetone into the bottom of the reservoir and spray it into a garbage can till empty. Do this three or four times and the gun should be clear.

Next step is the clear coat. Some people advise sanding the new paint with 1500 grit sandpaper. It did try this and it does improve the look but for what I'm doing It didn't improve it that much and besides, I don't need a mirror like finish.

Applying the clearcoat is just like applying the paint. Follow the same steps including mixing ratio but with clearcoat you be adding hardener not reducer. The clearcoat flows differently so you'll have to re-dial the gun. Be sure to apply the clearcoat in light layers. If the layers are too thick you'll see a surface that looks like an orange peel. I'll usually apply three coats of clearcoat.

That's it. Clean the gun like you did with the paint. After you remove the masking you might have a slight edge to your paint area. You can blend it down with the 1500 grit sandpaper. Step back and marvel at you work.

BEFORE:




AFTER:


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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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