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Old 07-01-2012, 08:02 AM   #531
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Re: Hal The Van

This might be a solution to stop tailgaters. When they start hugging your bumper,dump the grey water.

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Old 07-07-2012, 08:49 PM   #532
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Re: Hal The Van

Thanks Gnarvan.

Quote:
You could even share the fun with the forum by posting a greywater pukin video.
Had the same idea.

One of the projects I have to do before bolting down the kitchen cabinet is a modification to the sofa-bed. When I designed and built the sofa-bed two years ago I hadn't yet taken up welding. Now that I've got some rudimentary welding skills if I was to create another sofa-bed it would be very different. I've been mightily tempted to to take another crack at it but finishing the van takes priority.

Of course nothing to stop me from making a slight improvement. Here is the lifting actuator for the backrest portion of the sofa. I wasn't happy with the design at the time but had beat my head against it for too long and wanted to move on.


The problem is that the actuator didn't lift the back all the way into the final position. It had to be pushed against the lifting blocks via the other actuator to complete it's upward movement. To allow that to work I need to have a sliding mount point at the back where the lifting actuator attaches.


This did work but it left the sofa backrest loose enough to bang against the lifting blocks on a bumpy road. Time to fix it. Start with some measurements.


Take the bed off the sofa-bed and put on a couple sawhorses. Remove the old lifting arrangement.


Use some left over bits to make a new mounting point.


The measurements show that backrest of the sofa-bed is to go from flat (zero degrees) to 68 degrees as the actuator moves from fully closed to fully extended. Dust off my geometry and come up with a design that fits the equation. Make a test version out of wood.


Check that it will work.


It's successful so start to transfer that design to metal.


Finished product.


Make a pivoting attachment point for the actuator end.


A much cleaner looking design I think..


Test it out.


This design is more economical with space so gives me a little more storage room under the sofa-bed.


Add a limit switch.


Install the bed back onto the sofa-bed and check the operation of the new lifting design. While doing this I noticed something. These lifting blocks on the back of the sofa-bed. They help guide the backrest into position and support it when in the sofa configuration. They were the best I could do at the time but can now be improved.


Replace with angle iron.




After switching over to the angle iron backrest supports I'm able to move the sofa-bed closer to the wall. How much closer? In this picture you can see a right angle taped on the floor. This is the old position of the sofa-bed front right corner. I've now gained an 1-1/4" along the full length of the sofa-bed.


While 1-1/4" might not seem like a lot, in the context of the inside of a class B camper van, it's Huge!
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:22 PM   #533
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Re: Hal The Van

Is it just me or is this project starting to look like the inside of the space shuttle?
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2003 Ford E-350SD 4x4
V10 / 4R100 / NV271
Front Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/King Pin/Open Knuckle/High Steer
Rear Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/Full Floating
Eaton E-Lockers Front And Rear/4:10 Gears
ARB Differential Covers - Nodular Iron With Dipstick And Drain Plug
Leaf Spring Suspension Front And Rear
46 Gal Transfer-Flow Fuel Tank
ExtremeAire Magnum Air Compressor
Reunel Rear Bumper
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:37 PM   #534
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Is it just me or is this project starting to look like the inside of the space shuttle?
Like that's a bad thing?

Another project. Replace really dirty original driver side seat belt with brand new one.


This one's pretty straightforward. Get a T-50 Torx bit and 5/8" socket. Unbolt the old one and replace with the new one.


Here's another one of those "put off till later jobs". When I installed the battery vent in the side of the van the hole I drilled ended up being just a little too large. It's probably off by no more than 1/16" but it just bugged me. Till now that is.

You can see the gap in this photo, along with where someone/something scratched the side of the van.


From McMaster-Carr I ordered ten chromed washers. Didn't need ten but that was the lowest number I could order. The inside diameter of the washer is smaller than the outside diameter of the threaded shaft on the vent.


I take the insulated wall panels on and off enough times that I'm thinking of just calling them "access panels" instead. Remove the access panel over the battery vent and unscrew the vent.


I don't have a drill bit the exact same size as the vent shaft so to enlarge the hole in the chrome washer I'm using a end mill bit on my milling machine. The end mill is smaller then the diameter of the hole I want to make. The table on the mill moves front to back and left to right.


By carefully moving the table while the bit spins I'm able to make a hole just the right size.


Perfect fit.




Mount back on the van. Much better.


Mark one project off the list and add another to it. Paint the van.

By the way, if anyone needs a 9/16" SAE chromed washer let me know. I've got a quantity up to nine for sale.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

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Old 07-09-2012, 12:14 AM   #535
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Re: Hal The Van

No..... No..... It's a good thing!
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2003 Ford E-350SD 4x4
V10 / 4R100 / NV271
Front Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/King Pin/Open Knuckle/High Steer
Rear Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/Full Floating
Eaton E-Lockers Front And Rear/4:10 Gears
ARB Differential Covers - Nodular Iron With Dipstick And Drain Plug
Leaf Spring Suspension Front And Rear
46 Gal Transfer-Flow Fuel Tank
ExtremeAire Magnum Air Compressor
Reunel Rear Bumper
On And On ...
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:32 PM   #536
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Re: Hal The Van

Time to dig into the dash. I already showed some of this with the posting about the switch for the greywater dump valve. Start by taking off the doghouse then removing the stock radio.


To remove the radio use a Din Radio Tool. The tool is these two U shaped wires. Around $6 from Advance Auto. The stock radio is surprisingly slim.


Here's the view without the radio.


Install a new radio using a custom bracket. This leaves some room in the old radio opening for a switch panel. Cut out a template from paper.


It measures 7-1/2" x 1-1/2".


Cut the panel out of an aluminum sheet.


See how many switches I can cram into the panel. I've bought a selection of toggle switches because not yet sure what all I'll be controlling.


Measure and drill holes for the switches.


Add the switches and label them. At this point they not really wired to anything.


With the new radio goes new speakers. The van only has two speakers. One in each door.


To take off the door start with the screw in the bottom right corner.


Pop the cover off the front of the door handle and swing out of the way. It exposes a torx head screw.


Unscrew and remove the handle. You have to wiggle the handle to work it free.


Use a small screwdriver to pry the cover from around the door handle.


Above the handle is another screw. Remove it.


There is a black plastic cover on the inside of the door.


Carefully pry it off.


This gives access to the one last screw.


The plastic door panel lifts straight up and off.


Here's what it looks like without the door panel.


Out with the old speakers and on with the new.


Put it all back together. I had one problem and that was in figuring out which wire was radio plus and which was minus. The wire color didn't match what the Ford manual said it was supposed to be. I used a voltmeter to trace which wire was which back at the radio. Problem solved.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #537
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Re: Hal The Van

More dash work.
I own a ScanGauge II but have never got around to finding a permanent spot for it. Time to take the plunge. This looks like a good spot.


Make sure it's clear of the gear shift handle when in drive. Easy to see when driving. Let's put it here. There is a wire that hooks the ScanGauge to the OBDII port located below the dash. The wire can either be plugged into the back of the end of the Scangauge. To run the wire out the back I'll have to make a hole in the dash but it will be a cleaner look.

Make a small template and use pencel rubbing to copy over the socket location.


Use this to plan out the hole.


No backing out now.


Run the wire.


The gauge comes with velco strips with adhesive backing. Stick to the back of the gauge.


Stick the gauge in place.


Then fire it up.


The wire that comes with the gauge is longer than I need so roll up the extra and zip tie it under the dash. Then go for a test drive.


Looks really nice while driving except for one little problem. As you turn the steering wheel it blocks the view of the ScanGauge. Didn't even occur to me. Maybe if I lived in someplace with flat straight roads, Kansas I'm looking at you, I might have left it be. Around these parts that's not an option.

Find a new spot I like higher up. Will have to disassemble the dash to mount it.




Looks like this hasn't been done since the van was new. I wiped out all the ductwork I could reach.


Check that there's nothing in the way on the back of the dash panel where I want to mount the Scangauge.


Do the same for the inside of the dash. No problem.


Here's the new location.


What's one more hole amount friends.


While I have the dash apart do another project. Here is a panel voltmeter I bought on ebay for around $7.


It's made to be flush mounted but there isn't enough free real estate on the dash panel. I'll have to make a case for it. Here is a sheet of shiny steel I took off of a VCR I was tearing apart. It's thin and was used like a veneer on the outside of the VCR. Thought it might come in handy so I held onto it. Make a paper template case for the voltmeter.


Use the template as a guide for cutting the steel.


The front edge of the steel has a small lip that will grab the voltmeter.


Notch the lip where I will be bending it.


Use welding pliers to make the bends.




Once the metal is bent into the box shape it's fairly sturdy.


Make the case deeper than it needs to be.


Add a sheet metal screw to hold the case closed.


Bend the extra metal from the case depth inward.


Use bolts through the back to hold it in place on the dash panel.


By removing the sheet metal screw on the side I can open up the case and slide the voltmeter in or out. Drill a hole for the voltmeter wire in the dash panel.


Button everything up.


I wired it to one of the switches on the new switch panel so I could choose to display either the van (starting) battery or the house battery's voltage.


One more thing to check. The voltage used by the voltmeter itself. I turned the voltmeter on and locked up the van.


Here it is 18 hours later. The voltage hasn't dropped at all.


One more thing. In the above photo you can see that the first hole I drilled for the Scangauge wire now has a round rocker switch in place. I had the switch on hand and it's a perfect fit. I'm sure I'll find a use for it.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:44 PM   #538
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
Looks really nice while driving except for one little problem. As you turn the steering wheel it blocks the view of the ScanGauge. Didn't even occur to me. Maybe if I lived in someplace with flat straight roads.....
I mounted 6 Carling rocker switches across that area. Out of the way of my knees!
__________________
2003 Ford E-350SD 4x4
V10 / 4R100 / NV271
Front Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/King Pin/Open Knuckle/High Steer
Rear Axle - 1 Ton Spec Dana 60/Full Floating
Eaton E-Lockers Front And Rear/4:10 Gears
ARB Differential Covers - Nodular Iron With Dipstick And Drain Plug
Leaf Spring Suspension Front And Rear
46 Gal Transfer-Flow Fuel Tank
ExtremeAire Magnum Air Compressor
Reunel Rear Bumper
On And On ...
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:57 PM   #539
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Hal The Van

Doh! I wish I could have interceded before your first mount of the Scanguage. I played with that too and eventually mounted mine exactly, and I mean EXACTLY where you mounted yours the 2nd time. You'll love it there. I can report confidently that after you use it for awhile and realize all the cool stuff you can monitor with it, you'll like it in plain sight and easy reach.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:08 PM   #540
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Re: Hal The Van

If you're going to have a spaceship you might as well get a robot. Say "Hello" to my version of R2-D2.


Just out of the box. Haven't field tested it(him) yet. Only for use with shore power. Will have to start working on a name.
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Open the pod bay doors Hal.

Once I exit Hal, this is what I do.
https://larry.wvnet.edu/~van/pics/lic...late-small.jpg
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