Hal The Van - Page 7

**WVvan** · 02-01-2010, 01:37 PM

Thanks Guys,
@Randy
I haven't sized it yet but I'm going to check if 1/2" foam would fit between the vertical part of the plastic step and the newly installed Reflectix. Since it's the lowest spot in the van it will probably always be the coldest but it can't hurt. The stick-on carpet sounds like a good idea. Might also improve the looks of the plastic steps.
I hate to admit it but if I'd started on the insulation during the middle of the summer instead of when it was 20 degrees outside I probably wouldn't have been this diligent.

@12bproper
Would have been a waste of time planning the whole think out first. I'm always making mental corrections to my design as I learn more things while working in/on the van.

@Rick
At the rate you're going you soon be leaving me in the dust. I still haven't finalized my sofa-bed design much less start building it.

@Nomadcat

Quote:

My interior is filled with crap

Tell me about it. I used to actually be able to park in my garage before I began working on Hal.

This photo is like an iceberg. You can only see 10% of the total mass of crap I've got spread out all over the house for the van build.

**WVvan** · 02-01-2010, 06:44 PM

A quick jump into the way-back machine for a look at a patch I needed to do earlier.
Drivers side floor rust.
One problem with jute backed floor mats is their tendency to hold moisture. When I pulled up the front floor mat I found them wet underneath even though it hadn't rained in at least a couple weeks. This was during the summer.
Here's what the drivers side floor looked like. It was rusted clear through in one place.

Ground off all the rust and treated with rust converter.

Since this is hidden I didn't bother with the air gun and just used rattle cans to prime and paint.

Needed some sheet steel for a patch and I know where I could get some. Really old computers. 15 years ago those suckers were made to last. The steel on these computers is thicker than what's on the side of the van. Being a pack rat I have a few just laying around.

Cut out a template:

Transfer design:

Fun with the cutting wheel. Remove the stamped edges.

Looks neater without the flash:

**WVvan** · 02-01-2010, 06:49 PM

Drivers side floor rust - continued.

So start with a flat piece of steel:

Then do some hammering an chiseling an saber sawing then more hammering:

Starting to get there:

A lot more hammering and then, Success! A flat piece of steel no more. Every little ding you can see represents a blow from the round end of the ball peen hammer. I used self-tapping screws to hold the patch in position. Started at the bottom and worked towards the top doing the final shaping of the patch as I went.

Screws have been replaced with pop rivets.
I used Bondo around the edges since the metal was sharp and I didn't want it cutting into whatever matting I laid on top. Finished off with rattle can primer and paint.

Nomadcat · 02-01-2010, 07:03 PM

Oh man, I wish I had a garage. I'm going to beg my friend in Brooklyn to use his for a week so I don't have to wait for warm weather so I can work on the street. In the meantime, I have some shots. Let me see if I can upload them with comments.

Actually, I'll do all the comments at once, then just post them. If I can edit later to caption individually, I'll do that.

One shot has the entire setup - the 2800 watt inverter/charger, remote monitor panel, smart battery combiner and battery monitor kit. Underneath all this is the metal box with two group 27 AGM 12 Volt batteries - Lifeline - to give me 200 amp hours. I'd like more eventually, but that's all I can do for now. I'm going to be doing video work with this van, so I wanted good electrical. it's going to be a hassle paneling around that, but I'll make it work and do my best to blend it in to the final scheme. There's a quad on that panel, one on the back wall, which I'm also showing in another photo, and one on the opposite wall.

Aside from the other quad shot, which I'll also have to build around, I included a shot of the SPL tiles that I am sticking on every piece of sheet metal. I could be delusional, but I really believe they have cut down on noise already. Anyway, they will be covered up.

I am now leaning against jute-backed foil. Money is forcing me to re-think the insulation scheme. Reflectix is looking better and better. Even fiberglas, which I really did not want to use, but may at this point. Lowe's is looking much better for my wallet than a specialty supply shop.

After that, plywood.

**BroncoHauler** · 02-01-2010, 07:05 PM

NICE WORK, and thanks for documenting your build like this.

Did you fill the void from underneath to prevent moisture and/or dirt getting up underneath your patch?

Herb

02Chevytonner · 02-01-2010, 07:37 PM

Dave,
I was talking with my son-in-law this evening, telling him how I hadn't got as much done on the floor as I wanted because the 1/2" thick plywood I wanted to use for runners 90 degrees to the ribs was just under 1/2" thick and the 1/2" foam insulation is closer to 5/8" thick. He used to work for a company that made high end horse trailers with living quarters for the owners, typically in the $250,000 and up price range. They just put the insulation board down in as large a piece as possible, taped the joints and put down 3/4" t&g plywood right over that. He said once all the cabinets and furniture were installed, the floor was well anchored. I think I will give it a try and see how that works. I'll trim out the rear and side doors with metal angle.

Rick

**WVvan** · 02-02-2010, 10:28 AM

@Nomadcat
That is one sweet and heavy duty looking electrical arrangement. Definitely something to be said for having a professional do the work. I'm afraid mine won't look near as good.

@Bronco_hauler
Thanks Herb,
I didn't mention it in the write up but I used a whole tube of metal epoxy around the hole so after I set the plate down there was no void to speak of. Then I rustproofed the dickens out of it from underneath. I'll have a separate posting on just the van rustproofing one of these days.

@Rick,
That makes sense about the insulation layer. When I finished I had end pieces but I'm using them up with the wall panels. Also a good idea using the Tongue and Groove plywood. If I was starting over I'd probably go that route. Well the good news is that my work has something in common with high end trailers.

I'm also planning on anchoring the plywood with just the cabinets and furniture.

ericeff · 02-02-2010, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02Chevytonner

Dave,
I was talking with my son-in-law this evening, telling him how I hadn't got as much done on the floor as I wanted because the 1/2" thick plywood I wanted to use for runners 90 degrees to the ribs was just under 1/2" thick and the 1/2" foam insulation is closer to 5/8" thick. He used to work for a company that made high end horse trailers with living quarters for the owners, typically in the $250,000 and up price range. They just put the insulation board down in as large a piece as possible, taped the joints and put down 3/4" t&g plywood right over that. He said once all the cabinets and furniture were installed, the floor was well anchored. I think I will give it a try and see how that works. I'll trim out the rear and side doors with metal angle.

Rick

I am new to the forum (and to constructing an RV) but I was a custom home builder for 13 years. I am just not so sure about having a floating floor in a 4x4 as it could shift around. I would certainly not count on some cabinets holding everything together as they probably only have minimal attachments to the walls. I would also be concerned about screwing the plywood through the steel bed as this could allow moisture in and cause rust (had this happen with a few work vans). Still not sure of the best way to attach subfloors with insulation.

**WVvan** · 02-02-2010, 05:29 PM

Quote:

I am just not so sure about having a floating floor in a 4x4 as it could shift around. I would certainly not count on some cabinets holding everything together as they probably only have minimal attachments to the walls.

My intent is to anchor the furniture/cabinets to the metal floor of the van so the (in between) wooden floor wouldn't be floating. I agree that rust will be a concern so I'll have to figure out a way to deal with it. Not at that step yet but hopefully I'll think of something by the time I get there.

12bproper · 02-02-2010, 10:11 PM

I would also be concerned about screwing the plywood through the steel bed as this could allow moisture in and cause rust (had this happen with a few work vans). Still not sure of the best way to attach subfloors with insulation.[/quote]

Rick, just a thought. You could screw through floor, back out screw and seal with numerous kinds of sealant and rescrew. Dap makes a really good polyurethane used for roofs, almost like a hotmop. I am sure this will keep out moisture for many years. If not a flexible glue and a tight fit.