So far I am very happy with the insulation and sound proofing and feel it was time and money well spent. We camped 50 plus nights last year after doing it and even when we were in Portland at the end of November it was much warmer (low 40s outside) than it was before. We have yet to have it cold enough for sleeping bags. It also is really good in the sun and warm weather for keeping it cooler. When I was working on the insulation in my driveway I used my temp gun on the ceiling. On the bare metal it was 104 and on just the insulated part (no bubble wrap or headliner installed) in the same area of the roof it was only 82...22 Degree drop, not bad. While I did the sound proofing to make the van quieter on the road it is also good for making it quieter for sleeping, who knew.
This is how I did it in step by step order:
First I installed Dynamat on some of the larger panels like the window cut outs and then used strips of it so that I have maybe 40-50% coverage in the back of the van. That's still a bunch of Dynamat but it was well worth it I feel. Since Dynamat is not an really an insulation just a sound deadener you do not need full coverage, all you need is enough to absorb the sound if you want to make the van quieter. Dynamat is not needed for insulation and there are cheaper versions I just happen to like Dynamat to work with.
After that I used automotive type foil backed insulation. I didn't want to use Fiberglass and the automotive type is only about 1/4 inch thick. I used spray glue to stick it to every place I could reach, inside the fender wells and then covered all of the ceiling, walls, inside the doors and the step wells, a lot of heat loss and noise is from them so don't forget to do them. DO NOT insulate under the E-track you want it to fit tight to the metal on the van. Since I grew up in rust country I also left a small gap at the bottom of all the panels for moisture to drain out and was careful not to cover any drain holes.
The next step was the Reflectix I bought at Lowes. I used 48 and 16 rolls for different places.
http://www.lowes.com/pl_Foil+Insulation ... 294937087_
I glued it to the back sides of the ceiling and plastic wall panels and on top of the insulation in the doors and step wells. This stuff only really works with a bit of an air gap so try not to squish it down too much. I used DC Sure Tape to tape any joints and to hold it up any place I did not want to use spray glue. I also used it to cover any holes that I didn't want like in the back corners by the taillights where air and or dirt could come in.
I am not completely done with the floor yet, I want to use some more sound deadened at least in the valleys.I don't really need to do anything more but I would like too, maybe someday. What I did is working out really well so far. I bought a BedRug brand full floor foam backed carpet mat.
http://www.bedrug.com/products/cargovanproducts.php
In the back under the bed this is all I have. My Rubbermaid Action Packers I use for all my camping stuff hardly slide around on it. I installed a vertical 2 x 12 board near the front edge of my bed as a divider to keep the stuff under the bed when braking hard or whatever. In the living area I put carpeted plywood (also easy to remove) over the BedRug. This makes in nice and flat on the floor to move around inside the van.
There is a few things I can tell you about the E-Track and Rivnut project.
1 Made sure the the tracks are square at the back of the van. This makes building the bed which already tapers quite a bit from front to rear easier to fit.
2 Make sure the tracks are level with each other. It took me some time with the bare metal walls to figure out where to put the tracks both front to back and level. For me it was just under the little green plastic screw plugs that I guess are for window van trim or something. I used aluminum track, a full 10 foot piece on the drivers side (does not go all the way to the front door post on a EB van) and cut the other section to fit the passenger side wall to the door post. I used the E-Track sections to mark the holes by mounting it with a few screws first. The holes need to be just the right size for the RivNuts to work, too big and they will spin when you install the bolts, you do not want that.
3 Use a decent Rivnut tool, some are much better than others. I used Steel Rivnuts for the walls and I was getting quite strong yet very sore after doing all of them in just one day. you can compress them by using a bolt,nut and washer but that method takes forever.
4 Test fit the tracks before putting up the walls just to make sure you can get the bolts in. I drilled 3/8 inch holes in the walls despite only using 1/4 inch bolts in the track, that way if the wall isn't exactly in the same place when you got to install it after the insulation the bolts still go in the holes. I wanted the holes to be covered but was just looking for a little adjustment
Pictures: Bed Installed, Right Wall with Lower Insulation done and DynaMat at the top still exposed, Bare wall with E-track installed for test fit...Let me know if you have any more questions...
...Jamie
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