Inverter and Aux Battery ?'s

[floorguy_724]

Hey guys, I am interested in adding a inverter (1500 watts) to my van. I will only use the inverter to power a microwave (700 watts) and maybe a compressor (?-watts) once in a while. With that being said, can I connect the inverter directly to my vans battery using a fuse? Do I need 1 or 2 deep cycle batteries, isolator, etc....?

What all what I need to get my needs accomplished?

Thanks in advance!

[billwilson]

Dont know about the wiring but i know this:

I did not want a microwave

Folks here will tell you they dont have one/dont use theirs etc
(not a dig, just from what i have read

HOWEVER, we use ours at most meals
It makes meals alot easier and faster

Example:
-My wife pre-cooks/prepare stuff in micowavable plastic boxes
-We can then Zap em and viola' intant meal
-Also allows leftovers for snacks
-We can stick a plate in that has stuff from the Volcano wood burner and the Coleman propane
which where not cook at the same time and have different temperatures
- Micro allows us to heat the food from both and have a hot meal that we can eat together instead of serving one and then the other...

Just Our personal experiance

[floorguy_724]

Thanks Mr. Wilson! The micro will very seldom be used and will be used for just that......to heat up leftovers and/or quick meals while I am on a jobsite or out camping. In the long run, it will save me a lot of money!!!


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[jage]

Connecting to your starter is no problem, but you draw power from there. If you want house lights and to be able to run the inverter/microwave without starting the van (say early morning) or decide you want a coffee pot some day... any second battery and isolation system (separator in my opinion) will give you the ability to use it this way.

Not that you can't run the inverter on the starter without firing the van, I ran tools off my Jeep even before I had a deep cycle battery.

I imagine the compressor might be a LOT of watts depending on the size. My garage compressor draws the lights down and has to be plugged in close to the outlet (too much current drop through the maze of extension cords I'm forced to use right now). If it's a little air nailer pancake jobby then less, but you should still check the side and double the amount for startup.

[saline]

Two words : microwave bacon

[billwilson]

Originally Posted by saline

Two words : microwave bacon

i agree
just found the stuff
it ROCKS

[daveb]

When doing the math, I'm pretty sure??? (for example) a 700 watt microwave actually pulls over 1000 watts to operate. Don't look on the box where it says it's a 850 watt microwave...that might mean cooking power. So when you spec the inverter you might want to look into that. Don't cut it right on the line and give yourself some room for added load. I typically see 80+ amps DC being pulled with my little MW on high while the engine is running. Some can easily pull over 100 amps DC. I run twin 4-D batteries and can run it on medium without too much drain but I also have a 200 amp alternator. Short run times W/O the engine running is possible (like reheating something small that is not frozen) and the batteries usually float back up to good levels after the MW has been turned off. But they are a major power hog. Most of the time I try to run the MW on a lower setting like power level 3-4 for a longer period while driving and heading into camp. Your 1500W inverter should be OK provided nothing else is running. I would hook directly to the battery if possible keeping the inverter as close as possible to the battery or slightly larger copper wire for longer distances. I'm sure the instructions will explain what size on length wire to use. Your best bet is adding a house battery, battery monitor and a separator or switch of some type. Isolate yourself from the starting battery or keep the engine running while in use and let the chassis battery charge back up.

[Sierrasclimber]

First we have a microwave. Rarely use it. That said, glad to have it. Awesome to use when you do and space loss is minimal if you store things in it. Great spot to keep dishware.

Second, I have no idea what I'm talking about but you can judge if you believe me.

To do this you will be running DC and AC wire.
Assume 80 Amps as said above.

Use this page to check wire size according to length:
http://www.freesunpower.com/wire_calc.php
or
http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

So you should use at least 5 gauge wire if you have about 8 ft of wire (4ft each side).

I recommend you install a hard wire physical switch in front of you inverter so it is really easy to turn off and quick to visually check it is off. My hard wire switch is a little annoying. It turns the inverter off perfect but to turn it back on I must turn it on then turn the switch on the inverter off and then on.

To connect to the microwave buy a good extension cable and cut off the end. This will make it easy to run the cable behind cabnets and what not.
Buy reasonable multioutlet (surge protector type) cable; cut the end off, again easy to connect. Find an good access point and pull them out and butt connect them; then electrical tape up.

That all said I think just firing up the engine or a generator is probably a better option.

[floorguy_724]

Thanks for the tips guys, I ended up buying a Duracell 1500w inverter w/3000 surge (?) I had it installed under my passenger seat w 4 gauge wire.

The microwave I bought was a cheapy from Walmart and it says 700w on the back. I will just turn the engine on to cook a quick meal. I am also looking at a little fridge that pulls 750w at first, then levels off around 1-1.5 amps (x115 volts?). Again, I will use common sense here if I decide to go this route.

Thanks again for all the great tips and info!!

[jage]

If you can get a DC fridge (or DC/AC) it's a lot more efficient since the inverter doesn't have to be on.