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Old 04-25-2019, 12:22 PM   #21
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
What did you use for insulation under the ply?

I don't know why but I'm hung up on the best process that will yield decent results for my van.

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Old 04-25-2019, 02:28 PM   #22
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
I didn't insulate underneath. It's only sound deadening mat.
The flooring going above the plywood will be foam tiles which will have a little bit of insulating properties.

The floor that I took out was just plywood over the metal with a carpet top, so this is a step up from that, but not mega insulated like many vans are.

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Old 04-25-2019, 03:22 PM   #23
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Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 130
Originally Posted by Twoxentrix View Post
Just a suggestion, but Back in the day (way back) we used to build out the inside of friends vans (nothing like what many of you have been accomplishing), and one of the most import things we learned early on is to pull additional wire (couple heavy gauge also) while you have access.
Run a couple front to back, as well as left to right at the front and rear of the floor, and if possible across the top where you can. One day you may want to add a small fan, or additional outlets, or speakers, or lights, fridge, solar, or ????
Always easier now during your initial construction than later.

*Your progress is looking good.
This is a great idea, the other option, if you dont know what gauge wires you want to use, is to run some lengths of string through a small conduit front to back etc as Twoxentrix mentions... this way you can use them to snake your new wire through custom fit for the purpose at hand. I did this when finishing my basement at the last house... saved me tons of frustration when the inevitable moment came I wanted to add a new switch to the box :-)
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Old 04-26-2019, 05:26 AM   #24
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,360
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I like your approach to your build AXCXNJ--absolutely the best thing you've done is using your van quite a while before digging in. Most of us here have done something similar but do it in bits and pieces, sometimes spreading out the final configuration over several different build outs.

The suggesting pulling extra wires or strings to aid running more wires later on is very sound. Your choice to not join the floor is your's to make and as long as it works for your use that's perfect. Should that prove to not work out your minimal build could probably add joining strips under the existing sheets easily enough.

Looking forward to what becomes your final touches---looking good AND useful so far!
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Old 04-27-2019, 06:48 PM   #25
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
Thanks for the kind words everyone. This next week I'm going to be focusing on getting the new and old wiring cleaned up and properly run.

We camped last night in the rain and realized there's a leak at the back side of the van near the rear ac unit, so I will also be spending some time chasing that down before the rest of the interior goes back in.
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Old 05-05-2019, 06:27 AM   #26
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
I was able to run the wiring i needed to and clean up a bunch of the rest of it. The interior panels went back in yesterday after adding some plywood backing strips so that i had a bit more meat to screw into instead of just the thin plastic wall.

with the walls in the interior. I could install the new blinds i bought for the 3 large windows. with these in, i can also start working on the wall panels that will be covering them to add a cleaner look

last thing this weekend that im working on and hoping to finish today is the roof rack install. I have to mount false rain gutters to get them to work with the fiberglass top, so i need to have the interior out and access to the inside of the roof. I made a jig to position everything so that i wasnt trying to measure and align everything on top of the roof.

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Old 05-05-2019, 09:48 AM   #27
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
finished the roof rack install this morning before the rain hits. im going to leave the ceiling out for a whiile on the interior so i can be sure that i have no leaks.

other than a side ladder and running the power to the light bar..the outside is prettymuch done. now to continue on the interior!

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Old 05-05-2019, 09:58 AM   #28
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,606
Nice effort on the rack and overall!

If you find the wind noise from the cross bars is bothersome, check out this little trick! Start at Post#1

Typically you only need to do the lead bar, but you may find the second bar may be if it as well.

Beastie 3: 2002 7.3 EB Cargo: Agile TTB, CCV Mid Top, Custom Walk Through, Lots of stuff added.
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:43 PM   #29
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
thats a great tip on the wind noise reducer. I havent driven the van with the bars yet, so i dont know what the noise will be like but i can see that being a solution i go with. thanks for the tip!

Today i got the light bar wired in. With taking out the main cabin overhead lights from the van 12V source, i freed up an overhead switch, so I wanted to make use of the existing free switch instead of installing a new switch for the light bar. I had to extend the wiring harness a bit to reach everything but it works great!

Now with the racks on and the light bar wired, im done with all of the roof penetrations. As i build the interior out i can also put the ceiling in as i go along.

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Old 05-11-2019, 06:02 PM   #30
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 45
the interior bed is beginning to take shape. I laid down some rubber strips to be a hopeful squeak and rattle insulator between the plywood pieces

The space in between the two sidewalls is still big enough to slide 4x8's in. so i still have a lot of versatility with this. the eventual finished product will be the two boxed in sides, with storage access, and then the bed spanning across the tops. underneath is the gobs of storage area that i am planning for

the panels are held together with 90 degree brackets and screws. the joints also have wood glue between the plywood sheets


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