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Old 11-26-2020, 01:29 AM   #11
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Location: So Oregon
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Haven't posted up for a bit but have been slow and steady on progress.

Ran into issue with donor rear axle being from an Excursion and not an F250/350, workable but didn't want to go that route (spacers and different brake setup) no Frankenvan for me. And since the first axle was a train wreck anyway I grabbed another, correct axle. Live and learn.

Progress so far...
New rear leafs SD (43-1033HD) 4+1 2250# rather than the original 2+1 1625#
3" blocks and trimmed down u-bolt excess
swapped rear pinion yoke from flange to u-joint style
used 13 to 14 series u-joint to bolt up OE driveshaft (temporary until Xfr is in)
new brakes all the way around, pads/calipers/rotors/hyd lines
Reamed out OE pitman, again temporary, need to move projects around
All brackets torqued down to spec
Steering components in and locked down
Track bar in and very snug, need to torque to spec
Diff oils changed front and rear (donors were very clean)

Was able to drive it out of the shop, so yeah, stage 1 of the build is complete and I am able to get it outside and get a sense of 1)how it sits 2) how it looks 3)how it feels. I like it all!

I have a new to-do/want list...

Swap out the 31s for 35s (the 31s with wheels were $140 and considered temporary for now)
Front and rear bumper changes (rear with tire carrier)
Fuel tank, man I struggle with this one. Don't want to give up the 5gal to clear the trnsfr and keep the midship and the large rear tanks are very expensive.
Still need to do transmission work to bolt up transfer (once I get transfer) May opt for compatible rebuilt trans to avoid doing the work. I've had enough of transmissions lately. (Rebuilding my second 4L60E for something else currently)
Definitely want the shackle flip instead of blocks. (I have only tack welded perches because I know changes are coming, so not driving, gently moving from here to there only)

QUESTIONS:
Does the exhaust for the 5.4 need re-routed? May help me choose fuel tank options.
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Old 11-28-2020, 11:06 AM   #12
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Love the progress! Looks good.
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Old 11-29-2020, 01:19 AM   #13
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Progress here is great!! Just about to dive in myself. Did you drive shaft link up with the new axle ok, even with the height difference? Curious how doable it is to do everything except the transmission / xfer case.



For the exhaust routing check out https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post234446
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1992 E-150 4.9L Sportsmobile [sold]
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Old 12-06-2020, 04:37 PM   #14
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225 - Thanks, its been a fun project.

Turbo - yeah, there was some changes needed but managed to get the original driveshaft to match up to the new sterling 10.5

The center section 'snout' of the 10.5 is longer than the stock E150 8.8, both were a flange style connection but did not fit flange to flange, driveshaft was a bit to long. I replaced the flanged style yoke with a yoke that accepted a u-joint. That gave me the little extra room I needed and then used a u-joint that was an adapter style, 1400 series to a 1300 series. I do know that the pre-load on the yoke is fairly critical so not sure what can of worms I have opened, but everything 'felt' right as I assembled. I did check the resistance of old yoke and matched with the new. Theres a bunch of write ups about that topic here and there.

I set my rear pinion angle to about 9deg up front center but haven't welded the spring perches beyond a tack weld. My thought is that when I get the Xfr in and drop the cross member a few inches that I will match the two angles to keep the driveshaft angle in alignment. I may just weld the perches and cut/re-weld later if needed because I'd really like to take it on the road and not just around the driveway.

Good pic on exhaust modifications, thanks! That, the tank and then Xfr/Trans is up next for me.
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Old 12-06-2020, 04:56 PM   #15
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Here are the parts that I used...

Neapco 2-1435 Conversion U-Joint 1350 / 1410


Ford Sterling F250 F350 Forged 1410 series yoke 31 spline.

Works on 1993 - 1998 as an upgrade to the stock 1350 yoke with a new drive shaft or conversion u joint.

The 1410 u-joint will have a width of 4.188 and a cap size of 1.188 , 1350 is 3.625 wide cap 1.188 , 1330F is 3.625 wide cap 2 @1.125 / 2 @ 1.062
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Old 12-06-2020, 06:22 PM   #16
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Sweet thanks for that. I might need that. Won't know for sure until I get in to it and start cursing myself
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