Popping my top

[Viva]

All gorgeous. Wow!

Say, I'm just about to do some foam-backed headliner gluing (not on the actual overhead, but on a couple of fiberglass pillar panels, on some plywood (vertical), and on some other plywood (lauan). Can you go into detail on what headliner fabric source and what specific glues?

I did some online reading and ended up buying DAP HHR Landau top glue and a compressor pot gun, but frankly, I'm a bit cowed as I've never used anything like it. I also hedged and bought some rattle can supposed headliner spray contact glue. And then there are some places where I don't want to spray at all (I don't think) as they are not pieces I can remove from inside. Maybe I can just use a roller or brush and "dip" some of the DAP stuff out of the can? What applicators don't get eaten up?

I'd be very grateful for any tips!

Your work is amazing,
Viva

[vwteleman]

Wow! Gorgeous. My hat's off to you.

Brent

[boywonder]

Thanks Guys!

Viva: You have got pretty much the same adhesives that I am using.

As an example, on the trim pieces just completed, I brushed the landau top adhesive on the wood and sprayed the headliner adhesive on the headliner foam and stuck them together. They stick to each other great. I use a chip brush for the landau top adhesive and either re-use the brush (the new contact cement will soften the brush after a little time) or just pitch the used brush and use another new chip brush.

I haven't sprayed the landau top adhesive yet..........100% brushed. The new cans start out a bit runny, but in short order the cement stiffens up. Be sure to seal the can well when not in use or it will be too stiff next time you need it. I've thinned the stiff cement with acetone, worked OK but better off just keeping the can closed.

Here is a shot of the HHR adhesive and a typical chip brush....

[boywonder]

...a few other points about the adhesives....for clarity.

I'm also using rattle-can headliner adhesive; I'm probably on about my 8th can by now.

The headliner material in my van was purchased at yourautotrim.com as well as the first few rattle cans of glue.

Lately, I just buy everything at A1 Foam & Fabric in Santa Ana, CA. They stock almost everything that the online places have. A1 sells the rattle can adhesive for $6/can for regular and $10/can for high-temp "headliner" cement.

I'm also under the impression that the HHR landau top adhesive is higher temp than regular weldwood contact cement. I didn't want to cheap-out since it would really suck if things started to delaminate a year or two down the road.

One thing that doesn't work is brushing the Landau top cement onto the foam headliner material; the foam absorbs the adhesive and the headliner gets completely saturated. The rattle-can headliner adhesive sits "on" the foam without soaking in.

I use the brushed on contact cement for bonding the green bumpy vinyl to wood (on both the vinyl and the wood).

[Viva]

Thanks for all the detail - much appreciated.

I have chip brushes, so good to go there.

Also good to know I *can't* brush the Landau adhesive onto the foam - won't even bother to try it now. I hadn't thought of using the rattle can on the foam and brushing the landau on other stuff. Glad to know they played nice together on your materials. At least that way I can spray the foam outside the rig, and brush onto plywood that's inside the rig (so no spraying inside).

I have the same impression you do, just from reading: That the high temp rattle can headliner adhesive is better than something "wimpy" like 3M77, but still not up to the iron-like bond of the Landau top adhesive when it comes to heat. Of course most of our trim is not on the underside of a very hot roof, but still, the idea of it coming down even from pillars in a hot van parked in the sun is not pretty!

Next thing to figure out is how thick/much adhesive to use, and then...... maybe get up the nerve to try the compressor gun?

[Wbp]

Nice job great ideas keep them coming.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Viva

Next thing to figure out is how thick/much adhesive to use, and then...... maybe get up the nerve to try the compressor gun?

A thin, even coat......on virgin plywood you may need a second coat. A few lumps in the adhesive won't matter with foam backed stuff but it can telegraph through thin materials.

As the landau top adhesive sits around open, it gets thicker towards the bottom of the can unless you are using lots of it quickly. A gallon lasts me several months.

[Viva]

Thanks so much for all the tips.

One more question: Do you have a part number for those Accuride glides? I'm just at the point of needing to choose some. Was thinking of the soft close ones, but I don't really like how you have to slightly "yank" on them to get them open. Picky, I know

[rallypanam]

If you want to practice more with various modifications I'll be happy to drop my van off with a list.

[Viva]

So, not being as skilled as you (plus no workshop), a cabinetmaker friend is helping me with the drawers. I mentioned the glides to you and he asked if they a positive detente that has to be pushed in to open them (or I guess the alternative is that they just stay in because you have no handle) (actually, I'm a bit confused by the question, but maybe you get it, having used them).

I'm planning to have drawer pulls (handles) but am just looking for a good way to hold them in when driving, but not have them be obnoxious when I'm parked at a camp for some days. Was considering just regular glides and then some sort of flip down tab to hold them, or soft close ones (if they would hold?), but now I see yours so a new one in the mix. I have to get them ordered, so .... it's decision time.

Thanks!

PS: My previous drawers had side glides and then one of those small "broom clamp" type grips at the very back, which held it firm when it was all the way closed. The problem with those was they were so annoying to yank open, that I took to just leaving them ajar when in camp.... then of course I would forget them that way and drive....