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Old 04-21-2018, 09:16 PM   #31
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I had someone come install a new compressor today and when charging thats when we noticed the rear leaking like a monster. I will try to salvage it and get it fixed (know a lot of mechanics and welders) but looking for the on the road tomorrow fix.

To save the live of the new compressor would I tie the two A/C lines (after pouring some PAG oil in there, might've lost about 3 oz) and then charge the system?
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:20 PM   #32
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Cool.

See if the AC lines can be capped or plugged. One is high pressure and one is low pressure. I do not know if they can be “looped” directly without the rear evaporator in between. I do not know about the PAG oil. Maybe if the lines are well capped/plugged you can get the front system operational. Just make sure the metal lines going to the rear are truly sound. I had pin hole leaks in mine that resulted in a couple of go around$ on filling.

As I am sure you know, at the time those caps / plugs are removed, the whole system requires purging and refilling, if it was charged up.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:24 AM   #33
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As 1dr says, you can't loop a dead line. Otherwise you'll lose the pressure differential needed to allow the front to work. Also, Ford recommends against capping rear lines. They say you have to swap the return tee and expansion valve (supply tee) with non rear versions. If you cap the rear lines, the oil pools in those lines and the compressor effectively runs dry.

Also, pretty rare for the rear evaporator to go bad. But the lines are exposed to everything so that is usually where the failure is.
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Old 04-22-2018, 03:12 PM   #34
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I've already engaged UDFXRookie in a thread created on FTE about these same issues, hope he finds some useful info posted there.

I will add I've just completed completely removing the rear A/C function, heating will still be used in the rear but chances are good those components will be relocated into a space above the front seats. This space was created by adding a full-length fiberglass raised roof that also incorporates extended height rear doors. The necessary welded steel cage above the original gutter rails is in place, the original roof, intermediate side-to-side roof bows and the entire D-Pillar top structure removed. The plan is to use the "attic" to fit downward firing duct work to heat the rear area.

Have looked around at various block off kits I decided to simply remove the A/C lines feeding the rear evaporator, the end result being front-only full factory A/C now. At this point the physical rear lines leading from the compressor and condenser are gone.

For this change I used nothing but OEM Motorcraft parts including new receiver dryer, orifice tube and discharge line (condenser > front evaporator) before properly evacuating and refilling the system with proper refrigerant, about 44 ounces.

I have part numbers and a few photos if any one is truly interested in this same process. As a thread this could be a bit extensive; I've not posted anything to date as I didn't think it would have much interest here.

FWIW my van is a work/cargo only so rear A/C isn't worth the problems of the all-too-common leaks of the hard lines under the body. Because I have a separating partition of sorts between the front seats and rear area my real need for heating/cooling is about 1/4 of the volume typically conditioned by the factory-installed systems.

Living in Ohio a heated cargo bay is the only real need; as a 100% mobile vehicle repair business materials and parts like warmth awaiting installation while on winter jobs.

HTH
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:38 PM   #35
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I would be interested in the parts list for removing the rear air.
I am removing one from an ambulance that was installed above the front seats.
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:24 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogasm View Post
I would be interested in the parts list for removing the rear air.
I am removing one from an ambulance that was installed above the front seats.
Hmm that might be slightly different from my own project---I'm assuming your ambulance was built as a stripped chassis and delivered to an upfitter? If so chances are good the factory equipped it with an "Auxiliary Heater Prep Pack"---this allowed the upfitter to connect the rear evaporator to the factory front A/C system. That alone shouldn't change things too much--hopefully.

I swapped out the receiver/dryer with one from my same year van that did not come with factory rear air: Motorcraft YF-37119 (Amazon @ $33.31.) Next was the condenser > evaporator line: Ford 6C2Z-19835-FC @ $88.12. Along with a new orifice tube I changed the low pressure switch mounted on the receiver/dryer as there is a different part number without auxiliary A/C.

I strongly suggest Ford OEM or Motorcraft parts as I still believe they're the best quality. This is a personal choice however. The Ford OEM $88 hose could have been purchased for much less had I had the luxury of time, found them online and through eBay for about $50. When ordering this part make sure to see an image of it first---there is an alternative part number shown in the Ford catalog for about $30 that's not correct. You'll want the exact part number I list above.

When beginning this project its best to determine what you have currently and whether it differs in any way from the factory set-up at least as far as the front A/C components. IF standard or typical compressor and hose manifold are used then the receiver/dryer and condenser > evaporator hose are different when auxiliary A/C is installed---these allow for connection to the rear or additional evaporator.

HTH
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