removing factory interior lower wall panels, then insulating

[GreyDawg]

OK, I've got the remodeling itch (again)

I have a passenger van. In the current build, I left the lower factory walls in place, and built the cabinets and bunk snug against them, covering them completely, but at the cost of some inches of interior width.

I want to remove (and discard) the lower interior wall panels, put in some insulation on the lower walls, and then cover them (wood or fabric), leaving the upper factory wall trim panels in place. I think I can regain at least 4" and possibly 6" by getting rid of the plastic walls.



Questions:

• how do I remove the lower panels? Do I have to remove the upper panels first? (I hope not, because that's where my shades are secured)
  [/*:m:zdutemxz]
• because of the double-skin structure, should I attempt to fill the voids between the walls, or just use a surface layer of insulation (possibly reflectix?)[/*:m:zdutemxz]

thanks!

[SCBrian]

Originally Posted by GreyDawg

OK, I've got the remodeling itch (again)

I have a passenger van. In the current build, I left the lower factory walls in place, and built the cabinets and bunk snug against them, covering them completely, but at the cost of some inches of interior width.

I want to remove (and discard) the lower interior wall panels, put in some insulation on the lower walls, and then cover them (wood or fabric), leaving the upper factory wall trim panels in place. I think I can regain at least 4" and possibly 6" by getting rid of the plastic walls Yes that's my experience, I wanted to sleep across the back of the van and the panels made it to short (I'm only 5'10"). Do you have the rear air? That takes away some of the width but I worked around it with the cabinet. If I remember the bottom width with the rear air was around 67" and the width at window level was around 72"..



Questions:

• how do I remove the lower panels? Upper panels have to come off first, they simply pull off. They do have metal clips that pinch plastic tabs on the upper panel so be somewhat careful. Also the seat belts need to be unbolted to fully remove the upper panel, with the panel removed you can also remove the seat belt mech. that your not using. The bottom panels have some phillips screws across the top that you'll have to remove.Do I have to remove the upper panels first? Yes again but they can be reinstalled without the lower panel because that's what I did.(I hope not, because that's where my shades are secured)The shades should not be an issue when you reinstall
  [/*:m:3oe4b44k]
• because of the double-skin structure, should I attempt to fill the voids between the walls, or just use a surface layer of insulation No actual real world work done yet. My cabinets have to come out for insulation and I was planning on using fiberglass insulation behind the panels and the cabinets.(possibly reflectix?)[/*:m:3oe4b44k]

thanks!

[SCBrian]

Here is a pic to the drivers side with the lower panel removed and the upper panel reinstalled.



My cabinets are 54" long. The bottom panel on the drivers side is 54" long but the passenger side is shorter. Somewhere around 40", but could be wrong. My cabinet height is 22" which was the distance between my floor and the bottom of the upper panel.

Just noticed your van is an RB so your panel lengths are probably different than my EB.

[GreyDawg]

Thanks!