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Old 07-05-2020, 07:59 AM   #11
JWA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pntyrmvr View Post
Van roof sheet metal is so ridiculously thin you could run an old style Popeye can opener around the roof perimeter to get it out of the auto wreckers. Finish it off near your beer fridge.
Yep----new aviation-style tin snips another useful item.

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Old 07-09-2020, 10:09 AM   #12
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Would using a heat gun to melt the glue work?

I live in Petoskey, MI if you're wanting to look at a Sportmobile Poptop. Sportsmobile has a shop in Indiana and they might let you look at one.
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Old 07-09-2020, 10:24 AM   #13
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As far as sealing a pop-top roof against the van roof: This just came up in the GTRV owner's group. GTRV uses a bulb-seal that slides on to the end of the fiberglass roof. I shot a quick video of the fitment as some owners weren't sure how easy it would be to replace:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CCMSUfLJGtB/

The bulb seal is standard stuff. I replaced my 21-year old original stuff with part #12335A15 from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/12335A15/
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Old 07-09-2020, 10:53 AM   #14
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My local Pick N Pulls don’t allow Recip Saws any more :-(
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Old 07-09-2020, 10:56 AM   #15
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High-Test fishing line, two ppl. Avoids damage to flange
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Old 07-09-2020, 01:01 PM   #16
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I’m in the process of removing a top from a conversion van in a junk yard. This particular top has a 3-4 inch lip of fiberglass that seals to the roof using some sort of glue/caulk. I attempted to use harbor frights windshield removal kit and was able to cut through only a small section and had to use shims to keep the roof from pressing back down and “re sealing” it’s self. I’m going to be cutting the entire roof off and then working on it at home but I expect it’s going to take a lot of work and time but in my opinion having the lip allows for a much larger surface area to seal to the roof and overall a better top that I’ve seen previously in junk yards.
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Old 07-09-2020, 01:17 PM   #17
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You can buy a battery-powered side grinder at Harbor Freight for little $, put on thin cutting blades and go to town. You'll be glad you have it for your build.
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Old 07-09-2020, 10:42 PM   #18
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For my "no flange" top salvage at the Pick-and-Pull, I started with pulling trim covering the screws and removing the screws with my cordless drill (so glad I remembered to bring it). I was fortunate the screws were stainless, so I found a bag and saved every one, with the trim and the metal trim support.

Next, I went inside to look for a weak spot in the silicone sealant along the sides of the top, where the most light was coming through. I used this exact retractible style utility knife



being careful not to torque the blade for fear of snapping it at the "snap-off" lines and only exposing as much blade as I needed as I worked deeper into about 4-6" wide area of the sealant.

As soon as I got a purchase I started dropping in wood shims and a wedge to give the sealant a stretch and started cutting through the sealant with a slow back and forth with the utility blade stretched out. As I progressed, I advanced the wedge and shims, being careful to not stress the top too much. As soon as I got closer to the windshield I had to work from the outside. I did have a bit of satisfaction from standing on the hood as I worked my way around the front. I love salvage yards!

I finished cutting the top away from the outside especially when I started running into the metal top cage. Working by myself, this took a few hours IIRC. I did snap my blade, and took a lunch brake to visit the local Home Depot for a replacement. Since then I found these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



They dont have the snap lines so less likely to break, and went with smaller 18mm wide blade so it has a little more flex to follow body contours than my original 25mm knife. Maybe worthwhile to find a handle that will lock too. I seem to recall while working the blade, it would retract unexpectedly.

For the flanged top, I would probably use a similar strategy, but probably start with deforming a convenient corner of the van roof enough to get a cable saw through. Obviously the cable saw will not work on butyl. Just my .02, no experience on this one.

Hope this helps.
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