Sound reduction at the doghouse

[Kibo]

I chose to go the path of MLV + CCF. Rather than lay them down separately, I bought a roll with them bonded together:

Privacy Performance Carpet Underlay

I bought it from www.jss.net, total cost was just shy of $300 with shipping.

I started the roll from the back of my EB van and ran it continuously up to the front footwells as one continuous piece. It fits perfectly between the wheel wells, and there's enough left over to go back and fill in the spaces on the side in front/back of the wheel wells, in the steps, etc.

I bought a datalogging sound meter so I could quantify the impact on cabin noise (what can I say, I'm an engineer), but unfortunately the timing worked out such that I didn't have a chance to do a 'before' measurement. Right now I have the PPCU all rolled out of the way for L-track installation, and I plan to take measurements before putting things back in piece by piece (including Noico 80mil butyl) so I can quantify the difference.

The l-track floor project has been a long time coming and the van was a work van with trunk liner sprayed on the floor but no other flooring when purchased, so we've been using the naked PPCU as our floor for over a year. It works surprisingly well, nice and soft underfoot, but the MLV top layer can gouge or get marked with white 'stretch' marks relatively easily.

[saline]

To confuse things further..I removed the factory insulation and then installed a layer of Thermozite (thermal/sound) insulation and then re installed the factory stuff. There was a noticeable reduction in noise from the 7.3L box of marbles.

[renegadeoverland]

Originally Posted by Kibo

I chose to go the path of MLV + CCF. Rather than lay them down separately, I bought a roll with them bonded together:

Privacy Performance Carpet Underlay

I bought it from www.jss.net, total cost was just shy of $300 with shipping.

I started the roll from the back of my EB van and ran it continuously up to the front footwells as one continuous piece. It fits perfectly between the wheel wells, and there's enough left over to go back and fill in the spaces on the side in front/back of the wheel wells, in the steps, etc.

I bought a datalogging sound meter so I could quantify the impact on cabin noise (what can I say, I'm an engineer), but unfortunately the timing worked out such that I didn't have a chance to do a 'before' measurement. Right now I have the PPCU all rolled out of the way for L-track installation, and I plan to take measurements before putting things back in piece by piece (including Noico 80mil butyl) so I can quantify the difference.

The l-track floor project has been a long time coming and the van was a work van with trunk liner sprayed on the floor but no other flooring when purchased, so we've been using the naked PPCU as our floor for over a year. It works surprisingly well, nice and soft underfoot, but the MLV top layer can gouge or get marked with white 'stretch' marks relatively easily.

Thanks Kibo, this is very helpful. I found a similar product to what you describe but it was from a company in Australia and I wasnt up for doubling the price for shipping :-p but I will certainly look at what you mention as that is what I had in mind. My engineering mind is planning on doing the same, grab a DB meter and do a before and after, but my engineering gut says the MLV is going to perform better for sound deadening than the QuietRide system. But I didnt want to make too many assumptions had anyone else tried it.

I am a little sad that the other company closed shop, their foam for the side panels/pillars/above headliner sounded like a nice option as well. But I am sure other sell similar I will just have to do some looking. I am leaning toward the "do my measurements and piece together my own kit" side based around filling in any gaps that exist on the sound deadening side (dynamat) and then a solid layer of MLV/CCF

Originally Posted by saline

To confuse things further..I removed the factory insulation and then installed a layer of Thermozite (thermal/sound) insulation and then re installed the factory stuff. There was a noticeable reduction in noise from the 7.3L box of marbles.

Thanks Saline, this doesnt confuse things, at least not for me, this is a huge piece that most information I have found doesnt fill in. Between your path and the other poster earlier in the thread I have a few ideas for the doghouse now too. I knew that was going to be a key part of this whole process to get maximum reduction. Though only so much you can do with a removeable panel like that some is better than none.

I think as was mentioned earlier even now with what minimal work has been done by previous owners the highway side is not a huge huge deal but any more I can reduce it will be that much the better and more comfortable for conversation on long drives.

Thank you both for your thoughts and experiences they are welcome and helpful :-)

[desertsherpa]

I'm going to tag onto an old thread here.
I'm cleaning up the front foot areas for paint and rust reduction, and came across missing drain plugs in the door sills.
Does anyone know where to get some of these? As plugging these holes will go a long way in terms of shutting out noise.

Thanks!

[1der]

Salvage yard or some high quality duct tape / adhesive rubber or neoprene tape will work as well. Put some both above and below if using adhesive backed stuff.

I recommend not closing up weep holes though. Those are much smaller and are at the pinch seams.

[Nrobert10]

Perfect timing on this post coming back up. I’ve been doing some engine improvements on my 7.3. Placed a regulated return fuel system, new HPOP, etc, etc.

While I was working in the tunnel I removed the heat shield that is attached to the top of the tunnel. I placed a layer of dynamat on the metal surfaces then reinstalled the factory heat shield. Just one more area to help stop the noise and heat.

Haven’t got it driving again yet, so can’t tell if it will make an improvement or not but figured it couldn’t hurt.

Rob

[campism]

Originally Posted by desertsherpa

I'm going to tag onto an old thread here.
I'm cleaning up the front foot areas for paint and rust reduction, and came across missing drain plugs in the door sills.
Does anyone know where to get some of these? As plugging these holes will go a long way in terms of shutting out noise.

Thanks!

The hardware aisle at Lowe's and HoDepot have several drawers of small parts and fittings. You're likely to find an assortment of plugs there.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by desertsherpa

I'm going to tag onto an old thread here.
I'm cleaning up the front foot areas for paint and rust reduction, and came across missing drain plugs in the door sills.
Does anyone know where to get some of these? As plugging these holes will go a long way in terms of shutting out noise.

Thanks!

If by sills you mean the footwells that are also covered by the plastic and metal trim parts closing those small holes won't have a significant sound reduction. Mine are open to the weather but even so road water etc doesn't get into those areas.

You could find the factory plugs at a salvage yard or maybe this site has something you can use? https://autobodyclips.com/

HTH

[Lilnuts2]

I lined my engine cover with this seemed to make a big difference.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...06_180_006_004