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Old 03-29-2016, 11:30 AM   #41
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It was John that I talked to and basically without going into detail like you did he just said it wouldn't be cost effective which I took as it would need more than the average RIP kit. Not an issue and I totally understand, he just said it in a lot less words and detail than you did but I appreciate you going over it with not only myself but others on this forum to see.

He also said added later that we could do a full front end replacement for around the same cost as the UJOR kit so if anyone else reading this was wondering it can be done.
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:27 PM   #42
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"The only issue with that is that I don't want to go any higher than 4" but I want the tight turning radius of the Quadvan setup. We will see. "

Having a 4" Quadvan the turning radius is so tight ITS INSAAAAANE. My 2013 GMC Terrain (a tiny unibody truck) with 19" wheels has THE SAME TURNING RADIUS. Worth fighting for IMO. I can bang a U-turn in most 4 way intersections, instead of trying to back up a 25'+ truck.
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Old 03-29-2016, 01:38 PM   #43
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Ya, I definitely want that. Especially with such a big rig. The only problem with that is that Quadvan will not work on Advanced rigs. I'm sure it's because of the crossmember being modified and potentially other issues that may arise which is fine but limits me.

Of course I have MG right down the way that said he could easily repair my crossmember if I wanted to go that route so it is still an option it just will take a little more work.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:14 AM   #44
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Hey Everyone, I am looking for some insight here.

I need to get the interior walls finished asap and was wondering which would be the best route. I want it primarily open inside so its just going to be walls and ceiling. I priced out a Adrian Steel kit and that would cost me 1500 but it would be finished and little to no work. Would putting up plywood be just as easy for a lot less and is the cleanup still minimal?

Thanks!
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #45
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No personal experience, but I looked into kits like this many years ago, before deciding to carpet it myself:

https://www.inlad.com/ford-econoline...e?page_id=1053

https://www.realtruck.com/pro-van-ca...-cargo-liners/ (I've seen these in person and they looked decent, and hold up well - a friend has had one forever).
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:51 PM   #46
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Thanks Rallypanam, I saw the first option there and wasn't too thrilled about how it still left the top exposed but it is definitely the cheapest option. The second option looks good, I still am trying to decide if I want the walls to be something I can just wash off real quick (plastic/wood) or if I want them to be more comfortable (carpet). I think if I go the carpet route I am going to use the second option you have listed unless I learn of a way to do it myself for cheaper.
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Old 04-05-2016, 07:13 PM   #47
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Update! - so I have gotten a whole lot of nothing done so far as I'm still waiting for the other van to sell but MG stopped by today and we figured out that the random connector in the front drivers side wheel well wasn't connected to anything. Huge sigh of relief for me because I was worried it was supposed to be.
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:03 PM   #48
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Alright so I have gotten around to some more things...

Installed a K&N Intake - hopefully it does what it says it does.

Removed the side mirrors and installed the tow mirrors - it looks so much better now.

Started to clean the interior and realized at some point ( I am assuming the dealership) thought it would be a good idea to clean out the inside by just hosing it down. Well while it does have vine floors the strips of cloth underneath were holding onto that water like crazy. So I gutted what was left of the interior and pulled it out to dry. While it was drying I decided I am just going to not put it back in and order the Bedbug Vantred soon. It looks so much better after being swept out and cleaned with some Mr. Clean.



Then I decided to move the bench seat that the previous owner had had installed by Van Specialties. They had it in the "crew van" configuration which is cool but not really comfortable for me so I moved the seat back 17" and now I have more than enough space to pull my wheelchair in and put it behind the drivers seat. It also still allows me to have near 7 feet in the rear of the cab which is awesome. The biggest reason I chose to install it where I did was for the view out of the window from the seat. If you have ever flown in an airplane and been in a seat that lined up perfectly with the wall so you could rest your head but still look out the window than you know that its amazing. So thats how i figured out where I wanted the seat and then made sure I wasn't trying to drill through a cross brace.



Side note - while I was down underneath I found another wire that leads nowhere but it is plugged in to something hanging near the rear driveshaft. Anyone know what this might be?



Next up is installing some seat swivels I received from 1der (Thanks!) and swapping the hand controls from my other van so I can start driving this beast full time!
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:15 AM   #49
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So much better!

I was trying to figure out what to put down for the time being in between the front and rear seat and my wife says " what about that stall mat you have laying around". Genius! Then it got me thinking, why not just put that down for the entire length of the floor? It's heavier, great for a sound barrier I'm sure, easy to wash, cost half the amount of a vantred, the only downside I see is it being heavy, but since I'm not doing an interior build I'm sure it's fine.

Anyone else done that before?
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:50 AM   #50
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The 3/4" rubber stall mat on the floor is common on sprinter forums.
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