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Old 09-11-2016, 04:58 PM   #1
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To Quig or U-Joint That is the question . . . I shall call him "Fish Stick"

So I work at an auto auction. I am functionally poor with 4 kids, one of which is in college 2.5 hours away. That said, I have acquired a 1998 15 passenger van with a 7.3l PSD and 190k on the clock. I am not afraid of miles since my 80-series Land Cruiser had 184k at my purchase and now cranking along with 216k.

So, the van's purpose is to act as a mobile people mover, mobile sleeping quarters, mobile COW (cabin on wheels) for hunting and fishing about the Commonwealth of PA. When we visit the college field hockey playing daughter on weekends for games there are normally 2, or 1 per day. Home is too far for day trips and paying for hotel nights is just a waste of $130 a night.

Soon winter will come and I would like to take it up on our hunting lease so 4x4 is necessary to do so.

Two options I am investigating are to purchase a donor Quigley that has a loser body but the drive train is swappable with some work. Or is to save up for a ujoint diy kit 4" lift yadda yadda.

Both require welding on the install and/or swapping to a new van if this one STB's (poops the bed).

Now here is a concern about the ujoint product. You drill the frame, perforating it in a non-factory manner. In the auction world that is considered frame-damage and kills the carfax report and deemed a tarnishing of the value.

What do the esteemed experts on this panel think of what has been written above?

Oh, the name is "Fish Stick" because I bought a Van-to-camp.
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:28 PM   #2
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You drill the frame, perforating it in a non-factory manner. In the auction world that is considered frame-damage and kills the carfax report and deemed a tarnishing of the value.
You're concerned about that on a 180k mile vehicle?

Also, how would heat-cycling it from welding not be the same issue?

Since you bolt a bracket to it, it's probably stronger, if anything you've compromised a crumple zone from properly crumpling.
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Old 09-11-2016, 05:37 PM   #3
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Well not that on this specific vehicle but any being considered. A new front axle etc would garner an announcement of "altered suspension and drive train" but that is what gives it value.

Even a bent up tie down hole where it could be towed or tied down on a hauler can signal frame damage. Seems silly but that is the same across the USA based on the National Auto Auction Association rules for arbitration.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:39 PM   #4
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if your considering a 4" DIY and don't want anything super invasive, check out MGs kit. Only have to drill 10 holes in the frame and cut the front crossmember for more clearance. Super simple and includes all of the "RSC Upgrades" you would get from Ujoint if you get a 2013+ F250/350 axle to install.

No welding required.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:45 PM   #5
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But holes in the frame are what is at issue. I'd rather the welding than the swiss cheese frame rails.
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:21 PM   #6
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Modifying a van with any 4x4 conversion, including UJOR, doesn't "kill the Carfax report". It doesn't matter.
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Old 09-11-2016, 07:28 PM   #7
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Modifying a van with any 4x4 conversion, including UJOR, doesn't "kill the Carfax report". It doesn't matter.
Agreed. I understand that you are used to valuing vehicles in your job, but a 4x4 conversion is going to increase the value in a large way, even in an older, high mileage vehicle. The market determines the value and the market is ripe for 4x4 camper vans right now, and bound to grow even more.

As for Swiss cheesing a Ford van frame take a good look underneath, there are millions of holes in one from the factory, since it is one of the most converted, modified and upfitted vehicles ever produced. Plus, the frames are WAY thick. As in, astoundingly thick and strong. And if all this isn't enough, would you ever take the 4x conversion off?

I think you should do it, and I'm also another vote for MG's kit if you're not hardcore offroading, in which case I'd go Ujoint.

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Old 09-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #8
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Ford specifies how to drill and weld frames for upfitters so neither of those should be an issue. See Body Builder's Advisory Service documentation.

If anything you're adding value to a tired van by converting it, not risking what is there in stock form
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:21 PM   #9
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Some light reading on what I am worried about. Surely, the 1998 pig I picked up is a "starter van" for me. Chris of Offroad and others about the Quigley say it can be bolt on/off and purchase new welded hanger parts and the system can be moved from one to another.

So if the "Fish Stick" dies of a rusty cancer or unknown fate, his 4x4 brain can live on in another van dubbed "Fish Stick 2.0"

http://www.naaa.com/pdfs/arbitration...2016_FINAL.pdf
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betty White View Post
Some light reading on what I am worried about. Surely, the 1998 pig I picked up is a "starter van" for me. Chris of Offroad and others about the Quigley say it can be bolt on/off and purchase new welded hanger parts and the system can be moved from one to another.

So if the "Fish Stick" dies of a rusty cancer or unknown fate, his 4x4 brain can live on in another van dubbed "Fish Stick 2.0"

http://www.naaa.com/pdfs/arbitration...2016_FINAL.pdf
MGs kit can do that also...

Without having to purchase any replacement unobtanium.
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