Water water everywhere AKA leaking windows

[JWA]

Originally Posted by jchosler

Thank you JWA!!
I did by the new butyl material the other day and plan on replacing that on all the windows starting as early as today i think.

Okay then...........

Move slowly, don't force things or have your local auto glass service on speed dial.

When removing existing windows loosen and remove all nuts EXCEPT two at the top of the window. GENTLY pry the window assembly away from the body using some sort of NOT sharp tool. Looking at the plastic separating ring between the glass and body there should be small recesses allowing inserting of the pry tool to begin moving it outwards.

As the window assembly comes free of the body along the bottom and sides have a helper on the outside hold the glass mostly in place, their fingers between the window and the body. Remove the top two nuts and the window should be free.

Place it on a cushioned work bench or surface and clean all old butyl off the body and what you can see still on the glass assembly. Some of those assemblies have the plastic separator ring permanently attached to the glass, others that part has butyl between it and the glass. If permanently attached just clean the single surface that fits against the body---if it does separate clean both sides as well as the glass and body too.

Once every bit of butyl is removed time to apply the new butyl. There is a "track" in the plastic separator ring---follow that carefully. (If the ring separates from the glass same procedure but do the glass side first then place in one the glass, place the attaching bolts through the glass as though its ready to install back on the body.)

Carefully align the bolts with the body holes and place the glass on the body, your helper having moved inside and placing the nuts on the bolts. GENTLY push the wonder against the body and its as stuck as it needs to be.

Once inside use a nut driver to tighten the nuts just a bit at a time in a circular manner---this is where so many make mistakes. You're squeezing the butyl strips so keep that in mind. You'll feel it squeezing out, can probably see it too. Once the bolts feel snug and you can't really tighten them any further you're done.

I do suggest doing this start-to-finish one at a time---if there are any issues the van isn't completely open to the weather.

I've also sent a PM with my phone number in case you need a bit more immediate response.

HTH

[jchosler]

Man this is great stuff thanks again!

Last night I started on the window I broke and got it removed, it was broken glass attached to the plastic separator ring.
It was obvious where the initial leak was coming from as the top portion of the butyl seal was dried up and full of crud, of course the sides and bottom were fine.
I started in on cleaning the window flange on the door and this stuff is difficult. I gave up to do research after heating it up with a heat gun and trying to clean, then tried goo gone, then tried acetone. None of these options made it easy, the stuff just wanted to spread and make a larger mess.

[BrianW]

The butyl is easier to remove when it’s cold. I just recently removed and replaced my van’s rear windows, and also pulled three sets of pop-out windows from junkyard vans. The junkyard ones came off really easy because the weather was fairly chilly and the butyl wasn’t too sticky. I’ve also done this in the summer heat and the butyl is a gooey mess and a lot harder to remove. So I’ve had a lot of practice with this in the past month or so!

For my van, I removed them first thing in the morning while they were still cold from overnight and the butyl was kind of stiff. To remove the butyl from the frame track I use an old, somewhat narrow chisel (1/4-3/8”), which gets most of it off. Residual gunk comes off with acetone on a rag.

Conversely, when reinstalling its better for things to be warm so the butyl is more sticky and will squish better. Park with your window area facing the sun and wait until it warms up a good bit if possible. Keep the butyl someplace warm so you’re not starting with cold stuff. Install it as JWA notes, and if it’s warm enough the butyl should pretty easily squish down to a good seal.

[jchosler]

Thanks for the help guys.
Got through most of the windows this weekend. I did break another rear window, they dont take much torque, I was surprised how little I had on it before it gave out.

The others wernt to bad. I did remove in the cold which did help. I used Toluene to clean up the left over butyl tape that didnt peal off. It did the job but took a while. I used denatured alcohol to clean up the the surfaces from any residue.

Now Im waiting for my replacement rear windows then done.

[BrianW]

I’ve got a nice set of fixed OEM Ford van windows for sale if anyone needs a set. Located in Philadelphia area.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by jchosler

Thanks for the help guys.
Got through most of the windows this weekend. I did break another rear window, they dont take much torque, I was surprised how little I had on it before it gave out.

These tempered glass pieces break because they're in a bind---the Ford door glass fasteners make this very easy assuming they're drawn down evenly. It doesn't take much of a bind to snap the glass and its much easier to say than do but it happens to be best of us.

Originally Posted by jchosler

I used denatured alcohol to clean up the the surfaces from any residue.

I've used 3M's Bug, Tar & Adhesive remover---its costly as all 3M stuff is but it works for this sort of clean up like none other.