What may be a never ending conversion story…

[Vanimal]

Originally Posted by shadetreevanman

Thanks TwoXentrix for the reminder. Well it's taken me a while to get back out on the driveway. It's been very distracting not knowing whats wrong with the van. I like to gather data and think through my options, but when I don't know whats wrong my old thinker starts running off the tracks. Fortunately post like TomsBeast get me back on track and focused. Using his methods I am confident we have a bad rod bearing. Now with a diagnosis I am moving forward. Spent about 4 hours today getting started ripping it apart. My wrenching history is small block Chevy's and Volkswagen's. This Ford seems pretty simple but that clutch fan removal had me youtubing it. My progress as I cleaned up this evening.
Attachment 28949

And I have decided to go with the Ford Remanufactured Engine instead of a local rebuilder. I found a local dealer that is asking $3333.45 for the long block. That's the best price I can find within 50 miles of me.

As I put the engine back in I'll be installing my new gauge pillar mount. This mount is from Autometer for the up to 2008 E-Series. I figure it will fit on my pillar after I take the grab handle off. Might have to tweak it slightly. I'll be painting it grey after I get it to fit. The only thing I haven't figured out is where to install the water temp sending unit. The aluminum manifold under the thermostat housing has a nice flat boss that I may be able to drill and tap while I have it out.
Attachment 28950

As I reinstall the engine I'll replace the serpentine belt and hoses. Debating replacing the clutch fan. It currently feels tight, but it does have 100K miles on it. Trying to avoid going crazy with the "while I'm in there" mentality.

Here are some more gauge ideas while you are installing that will be easy to do!!
I did the 2" twin pod EGT's and Boost pressure but added a separate bigger 3" at the bottom for a TACH that is made to run off the alternator housing. It simply straps on the the housing with a sensor and a big hose clamp, works great. I also found the grey plastic paint by RustOleum to be a perfect match. They have been on there for years with no fade issues at all.
I added a overhead console with clock in the center a trans temp, water temp, voltage meter, and engine oil temp. I ran all the gauge lights thru the dimmer switch at the left for no night glare!

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by shadetreevanman

Fortunately post like TomsBeast get me back on track and focused. Using his methods I am confident we have a bad rod bearing. Now with a diagnosis I am moving forward. ...

I'm glad you found the advice/methodology helpful


Drilling and tapping for pipe fittings like a pro:

NPT threads are tapered, you need to tap deep enough for good sealing, but not so deep that the fitting bottoms out (and never seals).
When tapping the hole, most mechanics don't know how deep to go, or when to stop.


Machinist tip #347: Run the tap into the hole like any other tap, until 7 threads on the tap are still showing. Check with the fitting. 7 threads exposed is the 'magic number' that is correct about 80% of the time. Occasionally you have to go 1-2 threads deeper. Grease the tap, so the chips cling to the tap flutes, and are collected so they can be wiped onto a rag (and don't drop into the hole). Clean the few residual chips out with a 'fluffed up' fuzzy Q tip. The tiny fibers grab the chips like little tongs.

[shadetreevanman]

Thanks for the advise on tapping NPT TomsBeast. I hadn't really thought of that and may have tapped it wrong. The correct tap has been ordered.

You have more gauges than I need Vanimal. But I do like that independent dimmer for the pillar gauges. I like my dash gauges full bright, but the pillar gauges might need to be a bit dimmer. That part has been ordered too.

I purchased the remanufactured 5.4 today from the Ford Dealer. On the website it stated may take up to 2 weeks to have available. No problem, that gives me 2 weeks to leisurely remove the old engine and get all my parts purchased or cleaned up for reinstall. But after I ordered it they replied it will be ready for pickup at 3:30 today. Now I need to figure out how to pick it up. Lady Shadetree may object to throwing it into the back of "her" new Colorado. My utility trailer is currently blocked in by the van. It's a good problem to have. I have all the new parts and fluids in route to the house as I type. The old camping vessel may be back on the road sooner than I thought.

I was surprised to see the new 5.4 comes compete with flex plate and water pump. I'd read JWA's account of the parts included, but didn't realize it included even these parts. With the parts JWA wrote about it seemed like a good deal, but these additional parts make it even better. Not to mention I don't have to take those parts off and swap them over.

[JWA]

You'll be pleasantly surprised to see the reman'd engine comes in a fairly sturdy doghouse-looking plastic crate, completely enclosed with provisions to handle with a forklift. Naturally you'll place the core engine block in that crate for return---the dealership will pretty much require that crate's return, not that it has much utility otherwise.

So if Ladyshadetree's Colorado can handle the size and weight the new engine won't create a mess--put a bit of plastic sheeting and some cardboard down first and you'll do fine.

FWIW I had my crate loaded into the rear of the very van where it was to be installed. My mechanic left the crate in the van, plucked the engine out and placed it in the chassis. He placed the core engine back in the crate still inside the van and I delivered it back myself---that $800 charge needed elsewhere.

BTW Ford's reman'd engines are designed to be installed and driven immediately--IOW there's not need for a break-in period. Its good to vary the RPM's the few 1-2 thousand miles, drive up to 65 MPH with the OD off for a while--keeping the RPM's up. Change oil and filter in the first 250-300 miles. Use Motorcraft FL-820S filters or Wix or Baldwin--all good brands and quality too.

I've taken to using Motorcraft 5W-20 oil, will keep that viscosity until the engine reaches 100K miles, might bump that up to 5W-30 then. Might be a good time to begin using Techron Concentrate in the fuel system.

Speaking of the fuel system change your filter while the engine is out--just a good practice if it has any real age or mileage on it now.

Best of luck.

[Vanimal]

Shadetree, You can borrow my little utility trailer or I can help you go get it if it is not too far. I also happen to have my deck trailer hooked up right now moving a pick up to the trans shop! Sent you a pm with cell #

[shadetreevanman]

Thanks for the offer Vanimal. I didn't see your post until this evening. This morning I rented a trailer from Home Depot for $30. I wanted a trailer instead of the back of our truck to make it simple to unload at my house.The HD trailer had a ramp on the back and I was able to slide the crate off the trailer onto the ground in front of the van with no help and didn't have to break out the cherry picker. Opening the crate I see it does not have a flex plate like the picture showed. No big deal, I can reuse my old one.

I had thought to replace the fuel filter JWA, but research indicates the newer vans only have the one in the tank. I'll get under the van in the morning and confirm. I've already purchased a couple of Motorcraft Oil and Trans filters for the 250-300 mile mark and will only run Motorcraft fluids. I have a case of their LV fluid on hand and am looking to buy a case of oil. I was surprised to find Walmart has the best price on oil, with the dealer coming in a close second. Amazon is way higher on oil. Having the new engine onsite is a huge incentive to get to work.

[JWA]

Good to know you got it all home and waiting for the wave of motivation to hit!

Do check the flex plate you'll be reusing---dig out any sort of magnification available to inspect the thru-bolt holes as those have been known to develop small cracks that continue to grow over time. Nothing worse than discovering one part develops issues after all this work, parts of it having to be taken apart to address it.

[shadetreevanman]

Yesterday other obligations got in the way after picking up the new engine that prevented me from making any progress. But this morning I got out on the driveway. Had to jack the engine up to get the AC Compressor off. The engine is now 100% disconnected and ready to pull as I came in for dinner.



Looks like it will slide out with the exhaust manifolds still installed. Wondering if I have to pull the oil cooler assembly. Looks like at a minimum I'll pull the filter off. It sits directly behind the crossmember. Once I lift the motor it will be obvious if the entire cooler assembly needs to come off, and it will be easier to reach the bolts at that time. Besides the motor mount on that side bolts through the oil cooler assembly.



As I pulled parts off the old engine I immediately bolted them on the new engine if they didn't interfere with the swap. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get home early enough to drag out the cherry picker.

[JWA]

IIRC the engine will come out while the oil filter adapter & cooler are still in place however its probably best if they're not in place as you're installing the new engine. The oil cooler can get caught on the cross member and possibly damage it on the way to its resting place.

Naturally this all depends how your engine crane is configured or if it has a tilt mechanism built in. Since you have all the front sheet metal removed once the block and oil pan clears the cross member it should all pull straight out, perhaps raising it a bit as you approach the front bumper--if that's still in place?

The entire oil filter adapter and rail are easily accessed once the engine is in place--personally I'd leave it off and install after the engine is installed.

And double check your exhaust manifolds as well as the intake crossover tube---part of the original intakes have been known to break away or crack as shown in the following video. Its a bit lengthy but well worth watching to maybe save you some time and aggravation in the future. Anyway here 'tis:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPoxDxktrVI

Hope everything goes to plan---you seem to have a good grasp on it all so that's a good thing!

[shadetreevanman]

Progress is good. Got the new engine set in place. Lots to do still, but it is all reassembly now. I figure I'm about 10 hours labor away from test driving it. Adding up the multiple days work, it took about 10 hours to disassemble.





I had some hairline cracks in the intake so I ordered a new Dorman intake. The Dorman has the boss already tapped for my Water Temp Sending unit. It should be here Wednesday. Exhaust manifolds looked good. Thanks JWA for the tip.

Pulling the old engine out with the oil filter assembly intact (just pulled off the filter) the cooling tubes got a little banged up. So I waited to reinstall the new oil filter assembly until the block was sitting about where it belongs. I got more done than I thought I would after work today. If I can get out on the driveway every night this week for an hour or more each night I can whittle away at this.