Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-02-2022, 08:21 PM   #31
Junior Member
 
bnyc000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rctuck View Post
Bought a 7.3l with lots of rust. Trying to figure out what is worth doing and what isnt. This is inspirational and very ambitious. Ive got plenty of welding experience but little to no body work experience.

I got the van for 4k and would like to slowly turn it into an overland rig while simultanuously using it to remodel a house.

Addresing the most important things first (rust) then get into the other aspects 4x4 / suspension, hightop etc.

any suggestions on rocker / behind the wheel rust and of course back door latch etc.
I'm going to use 4 x 2 - 1/8" thick steel rectangle tubing to replace the entire rear section because it was rusted out and there was no bottom latch for the rear doors. I'll take pictures of what I have for the rear door bottom area.
__________________

bnyc000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2022, 09:17 PM   #32
Junior Member
 
bnyc000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by bnyc000 View Post
I'm going to use 4 x 2 - 1/8" thick steel rectangle tubing to replace the entire rear section because it was rusted out and there was no bottom latch for the rear doors. I'll take pictures of what I have for the rear door bottom area.
Ok, this is what I came up with to replace my rusted-out tail gate. This is 4 x 2 steel rectangle tubing 1/8" thick (.125). The ends were tapered to fit behind the contours of the rear lower skin and kind of mimic what the old tailgate looked like. Two holes were drilled for the mounting bolts and on the bottom side 4 x 4" squares were cut out so I could weld in 1" dia - 3/16" thick tubing to reinforce the area. This way the metal wouldnt buckle when the bolts are reinstalled. The middle section was cutout to mimic the contour of the doors when theyre closed.

In the second photo you can see that I used .060 sheet metal to make a metal section (cut on a plasma table) that will allow me to install the bottom door latch and guides in the middle recess of the new tail gate. This was the first iteration of this design and I am not completely happy with it, so I am working on a v2.

I am happy with the design and the idea so far. I think the 4x2 rectangular tubing is a good substitute for the old tailgate for sure.

It looks like your tail gate is in a lot better shape compared to mine. I HAD to go this route because of how non-existent it was (see photos), but hopefully this gives you some ideas.
Attached Thumbnails
Screenshot 2022-05-02 202832.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 205522.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 214850.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 214911.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 215025.jpg  

__________________

bnyc000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2022, 09:43 PM   #33
Junior Member
 
bnyc000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
Here are some other updates:
Photo #1 & #2 - Here is my idea for replacing the van floor. I bought 6 of these Ford truck bed panels (made by Dorman) and I planned on using some spare 14ga shetmetal I had to fill in the gaps and tie the entire floor together, but now I am rethinking the idea and might buy the extra panels.

Photo #3 & #4 - I recreated the rear lower interior panels on both sides. Its not the best, but not bad for a first timer in DIY garage.

Photo #5 Heres a mock up of the 16gal water tank Id like to install. I add the cross braces and Im working on the insulated storage box for this area. Im going to address the way that I welded in those cross braces east to west instead of north to south, because with the flexing of the frame the welds, as they are, are more prone to cracking.
Attached Thumbnails
Screenshot 2022-05-02 211949.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 211926.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 213006.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 213227.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-02 214317.jpg  

bnyc000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2022, 11:45 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
TomsBeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,045
I admire your tenacity, particularly as a novice working out of a garage. That rear section looks like it was swimming in pool acid for 20 years.


The nice thing about patching or replacing vehicle floors, particularly a camper conversion, when you're done just paint it all with POR15, shoot the areas you can't get to with 3M Cavity Wax. Paint the underside with a brush (or spray), and get on with the rest of your build.



I second (or third?) dropping the fuel tank and servicing the wear aged items, think about any other under frame rear tank additions (I'm in the middle of adding a underframe propane tank, and re-routing my rear fuel tank's filling line), working with arms overhead for hours is a real PITA. With all the rust, check the steel brake line that runs to the rear Y block, and the steel sections of fuel lines, they rot as well, now is a good time to replace them.
__________________
1995 E350 7.3 Diesel, 4x4 high roof camper, UJOR 4" lift
TomsBeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-03-2022, 09:54 PM   #35
Junior Member
 
bnyc000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Utah
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsBeast View Post
I admire your tenacity, particularly as a novice working out of a garage. That rear section looks like it was swimming in pool acid for 20 years.


The nice thing about patching or replacing vehicle floors, particularly a camper conversion, when you're done just paint it all with POR15, shoot the areas you can't get to with 3M Cavity Wax. Paint the underside with a brush (or spray), and get on with the rest of your build.



I second (or third?) dropping the fuel tank and servicing the wear aged items, think about any other under frame rear tank additions (I'm in the middle of adding a underframe propane tank, and re-routing my rear fuel tank's filling line), working with arms overhead for hours is a real PITA. With all the rust, check the steel brake line that runs to the rear Y block, and the steel sections of fuel lines, they rot as well, now is a good time to replace them.

Ha! Yeah that's an understatement regarding the rust, but yeah, it was bad.

I do have a gallon of POR15 on hand, so that will be used to coat the van floor like you mentioned.

As for the fuel tank, I dropped it last year to change out the fuel pump
and while I was at it, I did a general inspection of the tank to make sure it was sound and I cleaned and repainted it once the forementioned items were done. I also worked on cleaning/inspecting/repainting the frame and other systems (fuel, electrical, etc) while I was down there.

I used to be an aircraft mechanic once upon a time, so getting my hands dirty and fixing/repairing/figuring s*** out is a past time of mine. Getting to know this van and restoring it has been pretty fun. I have to say that I do appreciate that its an I6 because it was REALLY easy to work around the engine. I love that for sure.

I'm learning a lot from this project and this forum, thanks to everyone for their input, it's appreciated!
Attached Thumbnails
Screenshot 2022-05-03 213231.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-03 213300.jpg   Screenshot 2022-05-03 213409.jpg  
bnyc000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2022, 04:29 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: FL and VA
Posts: 1,538
Garage
Thanks for posting and taking us along.
__________________
Chris
2008 GMC 3500 Quigley Weldtec 4x4 Savana SMB
marret is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2022, 03:00 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,800
My basement was one of the best things ever in my SMB
billwilson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2022, 03:02 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,800
I did not read the whole thing but what about insulation and sound deadening?
__________________

billwilson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
conversion van, ford e-250, rust

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×