What Would You Do To Your Rig, if the Floors Were Removed?

[bnyc000]

Originally Posted by Rctuck

Bought a 7.3l with lots of rust. Trying to figure out what is worth doing and what isnt. This is inspirational and very ambitious. Ive got plenty of welding experience but little to no body work experience.

I got the van for 4k and would like to slowly turn it into an overland rig while simultanuously using it to remodel a house.

Addresing the most important things first (rust) then get into the other aspects 4x4 / suspension, hightop etc.

any suggestions on rocker / behind the wheel rust and of course back door latch etc.

I'm going to use 4 x 2 - 1/8" thick steel rectangle tubing to replace the entire rear section because it was rusted out and there was no bottom latch for the rear doors. I'll take pictures of what I have for the rear door bottom area.

[bnyc000]

Originally Posted by bnyc000

I'm going to use 4 x 2 - 1/8" thick steel rectangle tubing to replace the entire rear section because it was rusted out and there was no bottom latch for the rear doors. I'll take pictures of what I have for the rear door bottom area.

Ok, this is what I came up with to replace my rusted-out tail gate. This is 4 x 2 steel rectangle tubing 1/8" thick (.125). The ends were tapered to fit behind the contours of the rear lower skin and kind of mimic what the old tailgate looked like. Two holes were drilled for the mounting bolts and on the bottom side 4 x 4" squares were cut out so I could weld in 1" dia - 3/16" thick tubing to reinforce the area. This way the metal wouldn’t buckle when the bolts are reinstalled. The middle section was cutout to mimic the contour of the doors when they’re closed.

In the second photo you can see that I used .060 sheet metal to make a metal section (cut on a plasma table) that will allow me to install the bottom door latch and guides in the middle recess of the new tail gate. This was the first iteration of this design and I am not completely happy with it, so I am working on a v2.

I am happy with the design and the idea so far. I think the 4x2 rectangular tubing is a good substitute for the old tailgate for sure.

It looks like your tail gate is in a lot better shape compared to mine. I HAD to go this route because of how “non-existent it was (see photos), but hopefully this gives you some ideas.

[bnyc000]

Here are some other updates:
Photo #1 & #2 - Here is my idea for replacing the van floor. I bought 6 of these Ford truck bed panels (made by Dorman) and I planned on using some spare 14ga shetmetal I had to fill in the gaps and tie the entire floor together, but now I am rethinking the idea and might buy the extra panels.

Photo #3 & #4 - I recreated the rear lower interior panels on both sides. It’s not the best, but not bad for a first timer in DIY garage.

Photo #5 – Here’s a mock up of the 16gal water tank I’d like to install. I add the cross braces and I’m working on the insulated storage box for this area. I’m going to address the way that I welded in those cross braces east to west instead of north to south, because with the flexing of the frame the welds, as they are, are more prone to cracking.

[TomsBeast]

I admire your tenacity, particularly as a novice working out of a garage. That rear section looks like it was swimming in pool acid for 20 years.


The nice thing about patching or replacing vehicle floors, particularly a camper conversion, when you're done just paint it all with POR15, shoot the areas you can't get to with 3M Cavity Wax. Paint the underside with a brush (or spray), and get on with the rest of your build.



I second (or third?) dropping the fuel tank and servicing the wear aged items, think about any other under frame rear tank additions (I'm in the middle of adding a underframe propane tank, and re-routing my rear fuel tank's filling line), working with arms overhead for hours is a real PITA. With all the rust, check the steel brake line that runs to the rear Y block, and the steel sections of fuel lines, they rot as well, now is a good time to replace them.

[bnyc000]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I admire your tenacity, particularly as a novice working out of a garage. That rear section looks like it was swimming in pool acid for 20 years.


The nice thing about patching or replacing vehicle floors, particularly a camper conversion, when you're done just paint it all with POR15, shoot the areas you can't get to with 3M Cavity Wax. Paint the underside with a brush (or spray), and get on with the rest of your build.



I second (or third?) dropping the fuel tank and servicing the wear aged items, think about any other under frame rear tank additions (I'm in the middle of adding a underframe propane tank, and re-routing my rear fuel tank's filling line), working with arms overhead for hours is a real PITA. With all the rust, check the steel brake line that runs to the rear Y block, and the steel sections of fuel lines, they rot as well, now is a good time to replace them.

Ha! Yeah that's an understatement regarding the rust, but yeah, it was bad.

I do have a gallon of POR15 on hand, so that will be used to coat the van floor like you mentioned.

As for the fuel tank, I dropped it last year to change out the fuel pump
and while I was at it, I did a general inspection of the tank to make sure it was sound and I cleaned and repainted it once the forementioned items were done. I also worked on cleaning/inspecting/repainting the frame and other systems (fuel, electrical, etc) while I was down there.

I used to be an aircraft mechanic once upon a time, so getting my hands dirty and fixing/repairing/figuring s*** out is a past time of mine. Getting to know this van and restoring it has been pretty fun. I have to say that I do appreciate that its an I6 because it was REALLY easy to work around the engine. I love that for sure.

I'm learning a lot from this project and this forum, thanks to everyone for their input, it's appreciated!

[marret]

Thanks for posting and taking us along.

[billwilson]

My basement was one of the best things ever in my SMB

[billwilson]

I did not read the whole thing but what about insulation and sound deadening?