What Would You Do To Your Rig, if the Floors Were Removed?

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by 1der

Oh, one other thought - If there is a way to provide access to the upper nuts for the rear shocks! Those are a nightmare!

Don't even bother with them, just get out the Sawzall and cut them off. No matter how good or expensive the shocks were this is the way.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Don't even bother with them, just get out the Sawzall and cut them off. No matter how good or expensive the shocks were this is the way.

I have to chuckle just a bit having tried accessing those nuts before discovering how easy they are under the van behind the cross member. Me and a long time mobile mechanic friend tried reaching in from outside the body which proved nearly impossible. If the shocks won't be reused and are truly shot the Sawzall is by far easy enough.

Also if your existing shocks aren't similar to Bilstein those with that thin metal shell or hood over the rod would benefit from the Sawzall method.

I do find using the anti-seize on all shock stud fasteners makes removal quite a bit easier as rust doesn't form on the threads.

[Lilnuts2]

Have to say this gets the "didn't see that one coming " post of the year. I'm impressed with all the input everyone has offered..
Don't know what is involved, I know the wheelchair vans lower the floor a few inches. Maybe, just a thought.

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by JWA

I do find using the anti-seize on all shock stud fasteners makes removal quite a bit easier as rust doesn't form on the threads.

I absolutely agree, but unfortunately for a lot of folks on this site we are rehabbing a van we just picked up or converting one to 4wd or the like and there are lots and lots of E series vans out there with 20+ year old OEM shocks.

You're also right that they are much easier to access from inside the frame or on a lift where you can get at them from a few different angles.

[SteelheadJones]

Originally Posted by bnyc000

For the interior rust, I initially planned on only removing and replacing the rusted through areas of the van floor, but I decided to eliminate the entire cargo floor area and lay in brand new panels

Where are you going to get new panels and how will you attach them?

[ctb]

Impressive in both 'gumption' and skills...can't wait to see this build as it progresses! Good luck!

[SierraHawk]

My concern would be the engine and trans. My 5.4L does OK but a 6cyl engine is not going to be strong enough to get a converted van over the hills (I-70 west of Green River) and the trans may not hold up if the van is heavier than the drivetrain was designed for. Liquids behind the rear axle can put you at risk of losing control of the steering, overloading the rear springs, etc.

[1pharmer]

I'm curious how you intend to replace all the rocker panels on each side and the braces from
the cross beams to the rocker panels. They seem to be almost gone.

[bec_n_em]

I second 1der's vote for a "basement box," or as the SMB folks call it, the "XL Storage Box."

The bigger the better.

Depending on the year/configuration of the SMB, not all these boxes are created equal; some are bigger than others. Ours is a bit small.

It's pretty amazing how big some are and how much gear can be stored in them.

I also believe that 1der has mentioned they have a polypropylene XL Storage Box that I sure would consider for all the reasons one would think over steel.

Best, Em -

[Rctuck]

Bought a 7.3l with lots of rust. Trying to figure out what is worth doing and what isnt. This is inspirational and very ambitious. Ive got plenty of welding experience but little to no body work experience.

I got the van for 4k and would like to slowly turn it into an overland rig while simultanuously using it to remodel a house.

Addresing the most important things first (rust) then get into the other aspects 4x4 / suspension, hightop etc.

any suggestions on rocker / behind the wheel rust and of course back door latch etc.