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Old 02-27-2015, 12:53 PM   #11
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

the holesaw i used wasnt the right size, but just getting some space to work in each corner is really all i needed to manuver the cutoff wheel. by the time i had done the 4 straight lines, enough of the wheel was gone to to aid with the use of a smaller holesaw cut...if that makes sense, lol.

i also do the same thing cutting wood as you do. my straight line skills are severely lacking.

im not aware of a magnetic straight edge, but thats a really good idea. i have magnets from old hp hard drives that would work, but good luck getting them off any painted surface without totally destroying the finish once you were done. even if they were coated with something, theres still no way to remove them just pulling. youd have to slide them to a corner so you could get a grip on them.

as for the flat window.... the window i bought was specifically for a e350 in the exact spot i put it, but it still didnt mimic the exact profile of the side of the van. it was a little flatter. there was no way to really see this until there was a big hole in the van. i was concerned at first, but once i cinched down a handful of screws, the van body conformed to the window really well. im not sure if the window assembly gave at all. either way, it seated nice and flush all the way around the window, so i didnt give it much thought after the fact.
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:02 PM   #12
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

shenrie: HP hard drives. Hmmm... Hey you electrical gurus! Is there a way to apply a 12v current temporarily to a hard drive to make it "let go" from a metal surface?
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:16 PM   #13
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

IMHO, an air chisel is the weapon for this job......or at least when you decide to cut the roof off.....they cut the van sheet metal like a can opener and leave a clean edge.

I didn't hold the chip away from the paint when making the squiggle cut below; that was just a quick demo.

They used to be $20 at Harbor Freight, they may still be..........





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Old 02-27-2015, 01:59 PM   #14
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

boywonder: Cool tool! What compressor specs are needed to run it?
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Old 02-27-2015, 03:45 PM   #15
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by E350
boywonder: Cool tool! What compressor specs are needed to run it?

Looks like they are $11 at Harbor Freight..........4 CFM@90 psi

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-impact ... 92037.html

you need this style chisel to get the nice clean cut...easy to steer as well....really easy.

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Old 02-27-2015, 04:11 PM   #16
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder
Quote:
Originally Posted by E350
boywonder: Cool tool! What compressor specs are needed to run it?

Looks like they are $11 at Harbor Freight..........4 CFM@90 psi

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-impact ... 92037.html

you need this style chisel to get the nice clean cut...easy to steer as well....really easy.
You didn't by chance press record while using that tool didja?
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:35 PM   #17
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee
[

You didn't by chance press record while using that tool didja?
No, but it's well worth the $20 spent if you have an air compressor. Also good for pittman arm removal and other front end work.
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Old 02-28-2015, 04:33 AM   #18
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

Time for the grumpy old man glass guy to wade in here..........that'd be me in case you're wondering! I've installed and serviced at least 50 of this type window in van bodies; some new additions, some replaced for various reasons. Take any of this FWIW...........

-Cut Out Tool: Plenty of great ideas already here BUT for those not experienced with the pneumatic nibbling tool or 4.5" angle grinder there's nothing better than a good orbital jig saw with appropriate blades. The others mentioned require a bit of experience for good cuts without damaging the surrounding areas sometimes requiring paint touch up. The pneumatic tool and angle grinder are a bit dangerous in use especially without previous and significant experience using them, more so when things go wrong (during the cut) rather than when everything goes 100% as imaged.

-Raw Edges: The resulting opening will have rough and bare metal exposed edges so its a good idea to gently smooth them, as much for personal safety as a good practice. Once this is accomplished use some sort of autobody-type bare metal primer, one that doesn't require a cured top coat in order to remain effective against rust etc.

-Attachement: Depending on the nature of your build avoid bonding the glass frame to the body---it will be nearly impossible to remove it should service ever be required. By "service" I mean replacing a broken part or piece of glass--this is necessary more often than one might think. Instead use the inner ring supplied to "clamp" the window frame to the body because most DIY's don't have the tools or experience to remove a bonded part from the outside without potential and significant damage to the exterior paint. In fact considering the tools and experience I have removing the OP's window frame as installed would present a huge challenge, one I'd simply not guarantee wouldn't cause paint damage.

OP's installation is very nicely done, finished appearance top notch. As with so many of the DIY projects though thinking and planning ahead for contingencies we're sure will never befall us makes upkeep and maintenance to/on our additions. You'll thank yourself one day...........
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Old 02-28-2015, 07:38 AM   #19
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

JWA: You're not grumpy. You're helpful.
JWA and shenrie: What about those windows Bee has ordered. He referred to them as "flat." Are they installable in the E-Series vans?
boywonder: I have to put a new drag link on the Bronco. How do you use your air impact hammer to remove the pitman arm from the drag link.
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Old 02-28-2015, 07:56 AM   #20
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Re: Window Cutout Tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by E350
boywonder: I have to put a new drag link on the Bronco. How do you use your air impact hammer to remove the pitman arm from the drag link.
Ramsey discussed it here......

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=15522

Buy a cheap chisel set, and take the pointy one (or another you're not likely to use much-not the sheetmetal canopener one!) and grind the end off so it's just a flat (blunt) drift/punch. You then place it against the joint at a slight angle like you are popping off the taper a hit the trigger a few times.....Remove the castle nut first...

The most use (by far) for my air hammer was jackhammering out cinder blocks in my crawl space when I bought the house to get some crawl space ventilation. I used the pointy chisel and it worked great....took many hours to remove about 5 blocks (filled with rebar and concrete). The Chinese air hammer is still going strong. Mine's either from HF or Enco, can't remember.
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