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Old 05-19-2019, 02:02 PM   #21
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Anything rusty can be repaired, fixed or replaced.

The real question you should ask yourself is AT WHAT COST?

Spending money on SHIPPING is much Cheaper, Easier and Much More Cost Effective than spending money on rust repair. That means go to a location to purchase a vehicle where rust is not an issue such as the South or Southwest and SHIP the vehicle back TO YOUR home in the Rust Belt!

$1500 or LESS will ship most any vehicle across the country open carrier to most locations. I do it all the time.

$1500 just gets you started when rust repair of any type is needed and that usually means opening a "Can of Worms" that is typically much worse than you expected. That means "Mo Money Spent" and "Much Mo Hassle Time Wise" IF you value your Time more than your Money!

The reality is the vehicle you buy is the vehicle you will SELL at some point. It's much easier to sell a Rust-Free vehicle than one that's previously been Rusty, Repaired and Patched.

The money you spend SHIPPING a good RUST-FREE vehicle to the RUST BELT is the best money you will ever spend on that vehicle!
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:39 PM   #22
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Well said.

@Ande, I'd really like to see what you're talking about. Ford vans are very thick and I've hardly ever seen one compromised enough to be worried about installing a hitch. But, we do live in a world of lawsuits and pretty soon no one will be willing to work on anything out of warranty.

If you want a hitch order one off eTrailer. 4 bolts, 10 minutes. Unless.......your frame really is that rusty. I'd like to see it.
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Old 05-21-2019, 12:05 AM   #23
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One issue you'll run into in CA is shops are not used to seeing rust. My housemate has an '01 Civic that she brought with her from Minnesota. It has the usual underbody rust from road salt. Shops here won't even attempt to align it because the tie rods and other adjustments are rusted tight. One actually called her and said, "Did you drive this car into a lake?"
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:08 AM   #24
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Bumping this thread with another one. If anyone can identify the trans and engine by their respective sumps, you'll know why I'm interested in this van. I currently have a 60k mile SoCal V10 that's immaculate in regards to rust. This one supposedly is a CO rig all it's life so it's not swiss cheese, especially at 96k, but isn't my definition of clean. Thoughts? Pretty easy to blast/wirewheel and then POR15 (or similar)?
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:28 AM   #25
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Nothing is every too rusty to fix or repair.

The real question is your wallet BIG enough and your time frame LONG enough to fix or repair all that rust?
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:33 AM   #26
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See if this helps you. b.rock
https://vehicleidentificationnumber....ord-truck.html
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:08 AM   #27
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That depends on what it would take - that's more what I'm asking. I haven't done much rust mitigation so I don't know by looking at those photos - is that a little, or a lot?

Also, VIN decoder isn't going to tell me what's inside of it. That part I already know
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:09 AM   #28
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looks well used, not too much orange for me, no scale (indicating deeper rust) looks to be only surface where the paint has worn off the frame in the pics. I don't see any sign of paint bubbles or wheel arch rot, or undercoating indicative of someone trying to hide 'the ugly'. The only thing I see in the pics I don't like, is the hoses hanging down in the front axle shot, zip tied tot he anti-sway bar. I'd ask about that. Judging from the high steer arm and panhard bar mount, straight tie rod, u bolts, it looks to have an older Dana 60 or 44 front axle, but rear disc brakes. I'd ask who built it.



I see a block heater plug, is it a Diesel?
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:16 AM   #29
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Yes, I'm going to swing by a shop that's done some work on it and see what they know. That stood out to me as well. The axle leaks - eh, I can deal, since it would swapped out to coils in the front anyway (although I did notice the front leafs are Alcans, kinda surprising). Seemed like an Advanced conversion to be but I'm not an expert.

The van itself is an 06. It does have a diesel, although not a Ford. That's the main interest in it. Destroked did a 6.7 + Allison conversion on it back in 2013. So I'm weighing the rust repair and eventually re work the front end of the 4x4, but gaining the drivetrain.
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Old 09-05-2019, 12:10 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b. rock View Post
Yes, I'm going to swing by a shop that's done some work on it and see what they know. That stood out to me as well. The axle leaks...

The pee stain on the diff cover looks minor, same with that hose. When I look at a vehicle for sale I DON'T want someone cleaning all that stuff away. I want to see it 'as is', those little things are an indicator of the workmanship, evidence of a leak, maybe that stain is from the oil filter, above, who knows until you get under it yourself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by b. rock View Post
Destroked did a 6.7 + Allison conversion on it back in 2013. So I'm weighing the rust repair and eventually re work the front end of the 4x4, but gaining the drivetrain.

GM Diesel and Allison sounds very interesting. If you plan on registering it in California, I'd look deep and thoroughly into how the state views engine swaps and what you'll have to prove to register it in this state. I own a engine swapped Suzuki Samurai that went through the 'referee process', it has a special sticker to prove it. It;s my understand that in general, the swapped vehicle needs to comply with the more recent (stringent) of the two emissions standards. Older engine in newer chassis has to conform to chassis emissions. Newer engine in older chassis, the emissions standard goes with the engine. You need to confirm (by engine code) what truck it came out of, ensure ALL of the California emissions, fuel evap stuff, self diagnosing/CEL indicator from that year make model GM vehicle are now present on the '06 Econoline (even if the truck the engine was taken from, was never sold in California). Most other states don't have anything like California in terms of requirements, most states (so far as I know) don't require emissions testing on Diesels like California does. If the 'swap shop' deleted the EGR cooler and those droopy hoses zip tied tot he sway bar are a fuel tank vent to atmosphere for instance, it could turn into a nightmare for you, cost you thousands in unplanned, ahem, 'upgrades' just to get it registered. Not trying to spook you, just go into this 'eyes wide open'.



I don't see any rust that needs repair, just light orange staining. Scotchbrite and elbow grease will remove that, brush on semi-gloss Rustoleum. The 4x4 system should be serviceable as is.
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